I got a very tight rod cap on a new crank. journal specs spot on, new bearing measures just like the rest, but this ID of the bare rod is 2.240 perpendicular to the parting line. Should it measure closer to 2.250? Isnt that the size they resize it to on the Sunnen? This is measured torqued and it does measure 2.250 across the parting line. My crank is way hard to turn (like breaker bar) when this single rod is torqued onto an otherwise hand turnable torqued lubed crankshaft.

toss it. I'm assuming your assy is balanced so first you or your machinist weigh the big and small ends so you can duplicate that easily with another rod

Ouch. Out of production press fit stroker pistons and balanced rods to within 1g...Im afraid the press pin will damage the piston on its way out? Can I mix and match rod caps to look for a "tall" one assuming they are all OEM parts?

The press pin is free in the piston but you have to have the piston on its side & it MAY get damaged as the bottom side of the piston is gonna take the force of the press to get the pin thru the rod where the press fit is. I'm in this position myself with 8 of em & I'm gonna cut the small end/pin there in the piston itself but it ain't gonna be easy or quick. On the balancing HF has a cheap gram scale for $9.95 on sale and it is just as accurate as my buddys high dollar one . The rod needs to be supported horizontle so that the 2 big/small (journal/pin) holes in teh center of the hole are horizontle and since the piston is part of the reciprocating weight & is added to the rod small end you can level it & weigh the small end/piston/rings and the big end with bearings then if you destroy the rod to save the piston you just add the piston/rings weight to the small end weight on the new rod till it matches what you had before & even up the big end/bearing halves also (pads are on either end). I know a machinist that says he can press em out without damaging the piston but he said it is riskey. To ans your Q 10 tho is too far gone & sumpin ain't kosher as I've never seen one that far off. it needs to be concentric even tho bearings are slightly out of round by design. need the supports in the pic

Piston can be pressed out without any damage if the right fixture is used.That would be one that holds the rod and not the piston.What did you use to measure that rod? Did you check the others?

OK, I'm not really a machinist at a shop but I do build all kinds of race motors. My bud who is a professional Super Stock engine builder for 40 years lets me "play" with his machines. I do get to press my own rods out and you use a fixture that holds the rod secure and you press the pin out of the rod. The pin is tight on the rod, not the piston. I have also resized many rods. DO NOT START CHANGING CAPS!Then they will ALL be wrong. I hope they are all numbered. I bought my own dial bore gauge and Mics many years ago for this reason. When you cut the cap, the parting line ID stays the same, its the perpendicular ID that changes. This is the size that you hone on the rod machine. Sounds to me like the machinist just missed the resize on the rod. The gauge I use reads in .0001 so it is hard to miss the correct size. I usually get the rods within .0005 and let them cool from all the honing. Then I go back on finish them off to the final size. I place the bearing in the rod and measure the complete rod and bearing to the crank size. Sounds like you need to go back to the machine shop. You can fix just that one with the piston still on. It is kind of a pain but it can be done. Good luck.