Help me out with Sacrificial Anodes
#1637324
06/23/14 10:49 AM
06/23/14 10:49 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,920 Athens, Greece
Pyper70
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When I made the move to put Edelbrock Heads on my cast Iron block, I wanted to decrease the risk or electrolysis. I bought a sacrificial anode that doubled up as a radiator cap ($19). I have had the cap on my 4 core OEM radiator for 2 years now...last summer...It wasn't how it is pictured below....the thinner version is the one I just installed on my buddy's Roadrunner. You can see the before and after...is this the normal course for magnesium anodes? I thought they get eaten up, I wasn't expecting it to balloon up in size.
Is something funky going on here or is this normal?
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Help me out with Sacrificial Anodes
[Re: Andrewh]
#1637327
06/23/14 11:43 AM
06/23/14 11:43 AM
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Pyper70
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Actually the opposite...I see the ready mix stuff and run for the hills...I go out of my way to get the pure coolant and mix it myself with distilled water....now...if those bozos are selling tap water in distilled water jugs...thats another story.
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Help me out with Sacrificial Anodes
[Re: JoesMopar]
#1637329
06/23/14 01:37 PM
06/23/14 01:37 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312 Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
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Quote:
If you're worried about damaging the heads drain the coolant out once a year and refill with coolant/distilled water. It's only a problem when the PH becomes acidic. Keeping it fresh will keep your aluminum parts from getting damaged. If you really want, you can pull the plug on the side of the block and get it all out. But I just drain the radiator every year before I put the car away for storage and it works just fine. I might be concerned where the eroded zinc is going in my cooling system...
I change once a year now , did one of my cars yesterday.
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Re: Help me out with Sacrificial Anodes
[Re: Pyper70]
#1637331
06/23/14 02:03 PM
06/23/14 02:03 PM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,848 Memphis
HemiRick
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I've had a magnesium one in the drain plug of my radiator since 2006 or so and I took it out last year to inspect it and it still looks new. This is also w alum heads.
Take care, Rick 68 Coronet R/T 440 & 68 Charger 528 Hemi,and 5 Challengers! 6 cyl, 318, 360, 383, 451
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Re: Help me out with Sacrificial Anodes
[Re: Pyper70]
#1637332
06/23/14 08:31 PM
06/23/14 08:31 PM
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Pyper70
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Well...I did some research...I need to track down a voltage leak...I checked my radiator fluid and I have .422v in the rad fluid. The threshold is .300v I need to find what is causing the leak and check my grounds. I may have to dump the fluid but I want to check the pH level tomorrow. There are apparently "sponges" you attach to the heater core or radiator which pull the electricity from the lining and reduce the loads in the fluid. I called the reseller of the Rad Cap and he said his does the same thing every two years...his other car...looks like the day he installed it 5 years ago...
So now we are on a hunt for a leakage...I am suspecting it is my alternator though. I have a Delco Remy Si10 which is supposed to put out 14.6v when you "turn it on" and I have 15.7v...that over voltage must be bleeding back into the coolant and its holding it.
Don't blast me on the Remy...I had two of them sitting on the shelf and they put out 100amps and were half the price of the Mopar unit 14 yrs ago...internally regulated and "always on" when you revved past 1500rpm.
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Help me out with Sacrificial Anodes
[Re: Andrewh]
#1637333
06/24/14 12:42 AM
06/24/14 12:42 AM
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Joined: Dec 2008
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Quote:
while that might work, the acidity of the water is not why it works.
the issue is when the fluid becomes conductive. distilled and coolant mixed are not conductive to electricity.
stray voltage that can be carried by a conductor between 2 disimmilar metals causes one to corrode away.
a sacraficial anode allows that material that gives up electrons easier to be destroyed rather than your pricey aluminum parts.
by changing out the coolant, every year, what you have done is remove the contaimantes that allow it to conduct electricity.
While it is true becoming acidic, increases the conductivity of the "water" that in itself is not the reason for the corrosion.
however you have to ask how acidic can it possibly be. while it isn't truly a closed system, the "water" becomes acidic due to carbon dioxide in the air blending with it to make it carbonic acid.
there are plenty of additives in coolant that prevent this for quite some time.
but it would be interesting if you measured your ph before and after your change.
But wouldn't you need the anode in both heads for it to do it's job? How will he get them into each head? I don't think it will save the heads being attached to the radiator.
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Re: Help me out with Sacrificial Anodes
[Re: JoesMopar]
#1637334
06/24/14 10:48 AM
06/24/14 10:48 AM
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Pyper70
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I checked the pH level of my system today. I found it to be 7.2
While I checked my buddies 72 RoadRunner...his was 8.4
What number am I supposed to be aiming for?
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Help me out with Sacrificial Anodes
[Re: Andrewh]
#1637336
06/24/14 11:20 PM
06/24/14 11:20 PM
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Pyper70
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Water at 7 is neutral....but as I understand it...when Antifreeze hits 7...it's corrosive. I found this on another website "Why is the Antifreeze pH Level Important? Antifreeze is made with a number of corrosive chemicals, because these chemicals have a low enough freezing point to keep from freezing in the cold winter temperatures. However, these chemicals can themselves eat away at the metallic portions of the car. Over time, the antifreeze becomes more corrosive, and its pH level decreases, as the ingredients in it meant to inhibit the corrosive properties of the chemicals break down. As your antifreeze becomes more corrosive, it can begin to eat away at the metallic portions of your engine, causing damage that you will later need to repair. The pH level of your antifreeze should ideally be between 9.5 and 10.5 and definitely be above 8.3." http://autorepair.answers.com/cooling-and-heating/learning-about-antifreeze-ph-levels
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Help me out with Sacrificial Anodes
[Re: Pyper70]
#1637337
06/24/14 11:22 PM
06/24/14 11:22 PM
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Pyper70
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and another site states "Extensive testing has shown that a coolant pH below 8.3 pH is not acceptable for use in engines due to its corrosive nature. The correct pH value should be maintained between 9.5 - 10.0 pH. Below 9.0 pH it is advisable to flush the cooling system and refill with a new coolant solution." http://www.eutechinst.com/techtips/tech-tips10.htm
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Help me out with Sacrificial Anodes
[Re: Andrewh]
#1637338
06/25/14 12:42 AM
06/25/14 12:42 AM
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Quote:
as for the in each head comment, it has to do with being in an electrically conductive solution. so they would complete the circuit with "water".
I did a search on this and I thought I remember reading somewhere that it had to be at the source?
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Re: Help me out with Sacrificial Anodes
[Re: Pyper70]
#1637339
06/25/14 02:27 AM
06/25/14 02:27 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,548 So Cal
autoxcuda
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Quote:
Well...I did some research...I need to track down a voltage leak...I checked my radiator fluid and I have .422v in the rad fluid. The threshold is .300v I need to find what is causing the leak and check my grounds. I may have to dump the fluid but I want to check the pH level tomorrow. There are apparently "sponges" you attach to the heater core or radiator which pull the electricity from the lining and reduce the loads in the fluid. I called the reseller of the Rad Cap and he said his does the same thing every two years...his other car...looks like the day he installed it 5 years ago...
So now we are on a hunt for a leakage...I am suspecting it is my alternator though. I have a Delco Remy Si10 which is supposed to put out 14.6v when you "turn it on" and I have 15.7v...that over voltage must be bleeding back into the coolant and its holding it.
Don't blast me on the Remy...I had two of them sitting on the shelf and they put out 100amps and were half the price of the Mopar unit 14 yrs ago...internally regulated and "always on" when you revved past 1500rpm.
.422v is over the suggested limit. For something a little over, most likely a coolant change.
Gounding the radiator and heater core directly helps. Also rechecking motor to body grounds.
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Re: Help me out with Sacrificial Anodes
[Re: JoesMopar]
#1637340
06/26/14 12:58 AM
06/26/14 12:58 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,757
Andrewh
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Quote:
Quote:
as for the in each head comment, it has to do with being in an electrically conductive solution. so they would complete the circuit with "water".
I did a search on this and I thought I remember reading somewhere that it had to be at the source?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion
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