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Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 [Re: RapidRobert] #1633630
06/15/14 07:00 AM
06/15/14 07:00 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,575
The Netherlands
BigBlockMopar Offline
master
BigBlockMopar  Offline
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Posts: 3,575
The Netherlands
Trying to carry just one can make you walk 'funny' I agree.. lol
That's why you should carry two, one left one right, for some balance in your life... or a few slipped discs

Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 [Re: BigBlockMopar] #1633631
06/15/14 01:13 PM
06/15/14 01:13 PM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
Quote:

Remove all the nuts, Tap the snout of the housing left & right with a rubber hammer or large block of wood. This will break the bond of the gasket and the 3rd member can be lifted right out.

For 'easy' carrying of the 3rd member, put the U-bolt of an exhaust clamp through the top bolthole nearest to the large gear and thread a nut on it so it won't slip out.
This way you'll have a nice balanced handle to lift the 3rd member by and carry it around, posing to the chicks across the street or something.







I believe I have a rubber mallet at home. Lol. I mean, I can almost carry the whole differential drum-to-drum by myself, I can't see why I can't do a carrier.

Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 [Re: MuuMuu101] #1633632
06/18/14 01:05 AM
06/18/14 01:05 AM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
I'm going to try removing the carrier tonight using the hammer method. I'll let you know how it goes.

Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 [Re: MuuMuu101] #1633633
06/18/14 01:37 AM
06/18/14 01:37 AM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
It's not budging much and I spilled all the diff oil. Now I owe my sister a new box of kitty litter.

Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating [Re: MuuMuu101] #1633634
06/18/14 01:47 AM
06/18/14 01:47 AM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
I got it out. I was able to get a large enough gap to slide a screwdriver through and then just kept inching it with more screwdrivers till I was able to pull it off. Now it's time to prep it for paint or powdercoating. Which would be better and what's the best way of cleaning all the oil from it?

Last edited by MuuMuu101; 06/18/14 02:10 AM.
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating [Re: MuuMuu101] #1633635
06/18/14 06:39 PM
06/18/14 06:39 PM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
Circle Track
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Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
A car wash wand would be a very good start for the cleaning, especially the inside (get them seals out of there first which I assume you have done/just checking)


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating [Re: RapidRobert] #1633636
06/18/14 08:33 PM
06/18/14 08:33 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,323
NY NY
3
340duster340 Offline
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NY NY
If you powder coat it make sure they do not blast inside the housing or hit the gasket surfaces with the sand blaster.

Personally, I Prefer paint over coating suspension parts because it can be touched up.


1966 Dart GT ...down to only 1 mopar for the first time in 15 years!
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating [Re: 340duster340] #1633637
06/18/14 09:08 PM
06/18/14 09:08 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664
IN
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ahy Offline
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IN
For at home cleaning I used aircraft stripper and a pressure washer. The stripper is good on baked grease/grime not to mention old paint. Goop it up, let it sit for a half hour or so and blast it. It took two rounds to get mine completely clean.

For coating, I like paint. It is thinner and holds a tight bolted joint better plus easier to touch up.

On mine, I sanded loose rust then hit it with Eastwood black rust encapsulator then SG black all in spray bomb. It has held up great.

I got all the above done outside in one breezy warm summer day.

After several years I had new ends installed. It was a quick job to clean it again with detergent, spot prime the new metal then shoot the whole thing again with SG black. That also has held up well.

Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating [Re: ahy] #1633638
06/19/14 01:02 AM
06/19/14 01:02 AM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,250
North Carolina
4
469runner Offline
pro stock
469runner  Offline
pro stock
4

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Posts: 1,250
North Carolina
Mineral spirits and an old toilet brush for the insides. Brillo pad and some elbow grease for the outside. Sand off loose paint and rust and go crazy with the DP90 primer. Use a good etching primer and even the crappiest paint will hold up. Much better than the factory paint for sure.

Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating [Re: RapidRobert] #1633639
06/19/14 01:50 AM
06/19/14 01:50 AM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
Ok, so paint is better the powdercoating. That's good because it's something I can do myself and not have to wait or pay someone to do. Now, is it better to clean and paint the outside of the housing before assembly or after? Also, where are the seals and how do I remove them? Thanks for all your help.

Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating [Re: MuuMuu101] #1633640
06/19/14 02:51 AM
06/19/14 02:51 AM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12,291
Kent, Wa
340SHORTY Offline
Truck Nut
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Truck Nut

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Posts: 12,291
Kent, Wa
The seals are just inside of where the bearing fit..


I am truckless..
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating [Re: MuuMuu101] #1633641
06/19/14 11:56 PM
06/19/14 11:56 PM
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ahy Offline
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Quote:

Ok, so paint is better the powdercoating. That's good because it's something I can do myself and not have to wait or pay someone to do. Now, is it better to clean and paint the outside of the housing before assembly or after? Also, where are the seals and how do I remove them? Thanks for all your help.




Lots of ways to remove the seals. A long wood dowel or broom stick from the opposite side works well with no scratches.

Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating [Re: ahy] #1633642
06/20/14 03:34 AM
06/20/14 03:34 AM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
Quote:

Quote:

Ok, so paint is better the powdercoating. That's good because it's something I can do myself and not have to wait or pay someone to do. Now, is it better to clean and paint the outside of the housing before assembly or after? Also, where are the seals and how do I remove them? Thanks for all your help.




Lots of ways to remove the seals. A long wood dowel or broom stick from the opposite side works well with no scratches.




So just stick the broom stick through one side to knock out the opposing seal on the other side?

Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating [Re: MuuMuu101] #1633643
06/20/14 04:28 AM
06/20/14 04:28 AM
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,655
Cut and Shoot, TX
kentj340 Offline
top fuel
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top fuel

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Cut and Shoot, TX
On mine I'll chemically remove the rust, but what's the best way to fill the rust pits?

8181871-03RearAxle26a.jpg (131 downloads)

If you don't see two dolphins, you need a vacation.
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating [Re: MuuMuu101] #1633644
06/20/14 08:15 AM
06/20/14 08:15 AM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
Circle Track
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Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
Quote:

So just stick the broom stick through one side to knock out the opposing seal on the other side?


Yes, measure the depth (takes 10 seconds) then drive em out


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating [Re: kentj340] #1633645
06/20/14 10:29 AM
06/20/14 10:29 AM
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,105
Western Md.
skicker Offline
"The Champ"
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"The Champ"

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Posts: 5,105
Western Md.
High build primer will work but its a lot of material. I used one of the layered sandpaper wheels on a grinder to minimize the pitting, then followed it up with a skim of body putty. Prime it good, sand and paint. Gloss black sucks to work with on suspension parts. Use a nice satin black paint and it will always look good. I had mine mixed up at a local paint store and then put into spray bombs.
I used spray on bed liner on the one in my other car. I'm not sure I don't like it better than the painted one.


...FAFO...
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating [Re: skicker] #1633646
06/20/14 12:28 PM
06/20/14 12:28 PM
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 166
MINNESOTA
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BRONZEBEE Offline
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MINNESOTA
Take it to an engine shop and have them clean it, it will be clean inside and out.
Local engine shop charged me $20 couple years ago.
If you sandblast it for powder coating you will never get all the all the sand out! with out cleaning it first.

Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating [Re: kentj340] #1633647
06/20/14 08:39 PM
06/20/14 08:39 PM
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ahy Offline
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Quote:

On mine I'll chemically remove the rust, but what's the best way to fill the rust pits?




Agree the primer will fill pits. Sand and use rust stop primer first then high build. Sand and prime and sand again until it is as smooth as you want it. Satin looks good and is pretty forgiving. Agree stay away from flat.

Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating [Re: MuuMuu101] #1633648
06/22/14 01:51 PM
06/22/14 01:51 PM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
Sorry for getting back to this so late, but do you guys usually paint it before or after reassembly? I'd imagine before as your not dealing with the weight of all the other components.

Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating [Re: MuuMuu101] #1633649
06/22/14 05:36 PM
06/22/14 05:36 PM
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,655
Cut and Shoot, TX
kentj340 Offline
top fuel
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Cut and Shoot, TX
The original housing was painted at the factory naked, because you can see paint overspray inside. After that the unpainted backing plates, backing plate fasteners, and pig were mounted.

The backing plates and fasteners on my '69 8 3/4 are phosphated, not painted. And, of course, the original pig was bare and unpainted.


If you don't see two dolphins, you need a vacation.
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