Moparts
8 3/4 Rebuild Questions from Disassembly to Assembly
Posted By: MuuMuu101
8 3/4 Rebuild Questions from Disassembly to Assembly - 06/14/14 09:34 PM
My carrier was completed and my axles were set up, I just have to do the final assembly to everything on the housing. Scroll down till you hit the green text again.
So ignore everything else for now as it was for taking the 8 3/4 apart. Now that I've got this all apart, what's the best way to clean the carrier for paint/powdercoating? I'd assume now would be the most opportune time to get it done before it's reassembled. Which would be better, paint or powdercoating?
So, I'm going to get my 8 3/4 built today and I'd like to strip it down as best as possible before I drop it at my buddies house (as these things are heavy) sometime within the next week or two. I've got almost all the brake stuff off besides the parking brake, lines, distribution block, and parking brake. I don't see any way the backing plates can come off unless the axles are removed. Is it fairly easy to remove the axles? I'd assume once my axles are removed, the carrier can come out by simply unbolting it from the front. Thanks for all your help.
Posted By: stumpy
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/14/14 09:39 PM
If you look through the big hole in the axle you will see it is used to get to the 5 bolts holding the axle in. Remove those bolts and pull the axles out about 4" and you can drop the pumpkin out the front. After you remove the nuts holding it on the rearend housing of course. What are you having your buddy do to it?
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/14/14 09:43 PM
Quote:
If you look through the big hole in the axle you will see it is used to get to the 5 bolts holding the axle in. Remove those bolts and pull the axles out about 4" and you can drop the pumpkin out the front. After you remove the nuts holding it on the rearend housing of course. What are you having your buddy do to it?
Great. I'll go check it out right now.
He'll be installing new bearings and seals, big bolt pattern axles, and swapping out my gears in the 489 case from an open 2.76 to a 3.55 with a Truetrac diff. I met him on FABO, he's been building differentials and transmissions for about 30 years now.
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/14/14 10:09 PM
So, I removed the 5 nuts, but it seems like one of the threads has a locking washer attached to it. How do I remove that?
Posted By: stumpy
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/14/14 10:13 PM
HUH!. You got a picture? Can you pry it off?
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/14/14 10:21 PM
Quote:
HUH!. You got a picture? Can you pry it off?
I'll try prying it off...
Posted By: Alaskan_TA
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/14/14 10:31 PM
It has not been apart before.
Posted By: Squirrel_Cat
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/14/14 10:33 PM
Quote:
Quote:
HUH!. You got a picture? Can you pry it off?
I'll try prying it off...
Get behind it with a screwdriver on it so you can get some pliers on it. Twist it and break it off.
Posted By: feets
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/14/14 10:38 PM
Quote:
It has not been apart before.
Bingo!
I just pulled them off the Imperial.
Don't let the guy install "green" bearings. Stick with factory style bearings and be sure the end play is set properly.
Posted By: stumpy
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/14/14 10:40 PM
Nothing wrong with green bearings but seeing he has all the original parts tapered bearings are a better choice.
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/14/14 10:41 PM
Quote:
Quote:
It has not been apart before.
Bingo!
I just pulled them off the Imperial.
Don't let the guy install "green" bearings. Stick with factory style bearings and be sure the end play is set properly.
I figured it hasn't been taken apart, the guy before me said his friend got it out of a slant six Dart at the pick-a-part. I'm going with tapered Timken bearings.
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/14/14 10:49 PM
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
HUH!. You got a picture? Can you pry it off?
I'll try prying it off...
Get behind it with a screwdriver on it so you can get some pliers on it. Twist it and break it off.
Did it and it tore right off, axle slid right out. 
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/14/14 11:29 PM
Ok, both axles are disengaged from the splines and I've unbolted all the nuts on the carrier, what's the best way to remove the carrier they've been bonded for the past 44 years?
Posted By: RapidRobert
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/14/14 11:38 PM
secure the housing in position with the 3rd member point straight up at the sky. Have 2 helpers wedge 2 thick screwdrivers in & opposite each other & tell em to be carefull & not gouge the gasket area. You pull the pig straight up as they carefully pry it up evenly till it's loose. EDIT measure how far in the axle seals are on the housing ends & if the backing plates are off & you're down to a bare housing use an axle to pry the seals out. That thin washer in the pic was installed on the assy line to guarantee the axles stayed in place till the next guy on down the line buzzed on the 5 nuts. Likely it has never been apart as most people toss em when they take it apart for the first time but it could have been reintstalled. MORE EDIT This was an A body 8&3/4 behind a /6
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/14/14 11:44 PM
Quote:
secure the housing in position with the 3rd member point straight up at the sky. Have 2 helpers wedge 2 thick screwdrivers in & opposite each other & tell em to be carefull & not gouge the gasket area. You pull the pig straight up as they carefully pry it up evenly till it's loose. EDIT measure how far in the axle seals are on the housing ends & if the backing plates are off & you're down to a bare housing use an axle to pry the seals out
Darn... I don't have 2 helpers as of now. I'm not sure I am following your EDIT.
Posted By: RapidRobert
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/14/14 11:55 PM
If you use a tape measure to measure how far in the seals are from the flange face that will make it easier when you drive in the new ones to get em to the same depth. Using the splined end of an axle works real good to pry out the old seals. get the splined end JUST past the seal ID enough to get a good grip on the seal & lever it out & it'll come right out. You could pull the pig by yourself with it on its side if need be but just be carefull to burr the threads as little as possible. EDIT the trick is to keep it comeing out evenly, use the 2 large screwdrivers then tire spoons/pry bars after its out aways
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/15/14 12:14 AM
I already pulled the axles from the housing.
Another note, how do I dispose of this gear oil? I've got most of it sitting in a pan.
And how do I remove the distribution block?
Posted By: RapidRobert
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/15/14 12:29 AM
(1) O'reillys (2) the brake line T ?, look on it & you'll see the hex & unscrew it CCW
Posted By: BigBlockMopar
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/15/14 01:16 AM
Remove all the nuts, Tap the snout of the housing left & right with a rubber hammer or large block of wood. This will break the bond of the gasket and the 3rd member can be lifted right out.
For 'easy' carrying of the 3rd member, put the U-bolt of an exhaust clamp through the top bolthole nearest to the large gear and thread a nut on it so it won't slip out.
This way you'll have a nice balanced handle to lift the 3rd member by and carry it around, posing to the chicks across the street or something.
Posted By: RapidRobert
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/15/14 03:28 AM
I couldn't carry one when I was a young man
Posted By: BigBlockMopar
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/15/14 11:00 AM
Trying to carry just one can make you walk 'funny' I agree.. lol
That's why you should carry two, one left one right, for some balance in your life... or a few slipped discs
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/15/14 05:13 PM
Quote:
Remove all the nuts, Tap the snout of the housing left & right with a rubber hammer or large block of wood. This will break the bond of the gasket and the 3rd member can be lifted right out.
For 'easy' carrying of the 3rd member, put the U-bolt of an exhaust clamp through the top bolthole nearest to the large gear and thread a nut on it so it won't slip out.
This way you'll have a nice balanced handle to lift the 3rd member by and carry it around, posing to the chicks across the street or something.
I believe I have a rubber mallet at home. Lol. I mean, I can almost carry the whole differential drum-to-drum by myself, I can't see why I can't do a carrier. 
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/18/14 05:05 AM
I'm going to try removing the carrier tonight using the hammer method. I'll let you know how it goes.
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: Stripping Down an 8 3/4 - 06/18/14 05:37 AM
It's not budging much and I spilled all the diff oil. Now I owe my sister a new box of kitty litter.
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 06/18/14 05:47 AM
I got it out. I was able to get a large enough gap to slide a screwdriver through and then just kept inching it with more screwdrivers till I was able to pull it off. Now it's time to prep it for paint or powdercoating. Which would be better and what's the best way of cleaning all the oil from it?
Posted By: RapidRobert
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 06/18/14 10:39 PM
A car wash wand would be a very good start for the cleaning, especially the inside (get them seals out of there first which I assume you have done/just checking)
Posted By: 340duster340
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 06/19/14 12:33 AM
If you powder coat it make sure they do not blast inside the housing or hit the gasket surfaces with the sand blaster.
Personally, I Prefer paint over coating suspension parts because it can be touched up.
Posted By: ahy
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 06/19/14 01:08 AM
For at home cleaning I used aircraft stripper and a pressure washer. The stripper is good on baked grease/grime not to mention old paint. Goop it up, let it sit for a half hour or so and blast it. It took two rounds to get mine completely clean.
For coating, I like paint. It is thinner and holds a tight bolted joint better plus easier to touch up.
On mine, I sanded loose rust then hit it with Eastwood black rust encapsulator then SG black all in spray bomb. It has held up great.
I got all the above done outside in one breezy warm summer day.
After several years I had new ends installed. It was a quick job to clean it again with detergent, spot prime the new metal then shoot the whole thing again with SG black. That also has held up well.
Posted By: 469runner
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 06/19/14 05:02 AM
Mineral spirits and an old toilet brush for the insides. Brillo pad and some elbow grease for the outside. Sand off loose paint and rust and go crazy with the DP90 primer. Use a good etching primer and even the crappiest paint will hold up. Much better than the factory paint for sure.
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 06/19/14 05:50 AM
Ok, so paint is better the powdercoating. That's good because it's something I can do myself and not have to wait or pay someone to do. Now, is it better to clean and paint the outside of the housing before assembly or after? Also, where are the seals and how do I remove them? Thanks for all your help.
Posted By: 340SHORTY
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 06/19/14 06:51 AM
The seals are just inside of where the bearing fit..
Posted By: ahy
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 06/20/14 03:56 AM
Quote:
Ok, so paint is better the powdercoating. That's good because it's something I can do myself and not have to wait or pay someone to do. Now, is it better to clean and paint the outside of the housing before assembly or after? Also, where are the seals and how do I remove them? Thanks for all your help.
Lots of ways to remove the seals. A long wood dowel or broom stick from the opposite side works well with no scratches.
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 06/20/14 07:34 AM
Quote:
Quote:
Ok, so paint is better the powdercoating. That's good because it's something I can do myself and not have to wait or pay someone to do. Now, is it better to clean and paint the outside of the housing before assembly or after? Also, where are the seals and how do I remove them? Thanks for all your help.
Lots of ways to remove the seals. A long wood dowel or broom stick from the opposite side works well with no scratches.
So just stick the broom stick through one side to knock out the opposing seal on the other side?
Posted By: kentj340
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 06/20/14 08:28 AM
On mine I'll chemically remove the rust, but what's the best way to fill the rust pits?
Posted By: RapidRobert
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 06/20/14 12:15 PM
Quote:
So just stick the broom stick through one side to knock out the opposing seal on the other side?
Yes, measure the depth (takes 10 seconds) then drive em out
Posted By: skicker
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 06/20/14 02:29 PM
High build primer will work but its a lot of material. I used one of the layered sandpaper wheels on a grinder to minimize the pitting, then followed it up with a skim of body putty. Prime it good, sand and paint. Gloss black sucks to work with on suspension parts. Use a nice satin black paint and it will always look good. I had mine mixed up at a local paint store and then put into spray bombs.
I used spray on bed liner on the one in my other car. I'm not sure I don't like it better than the painted one.
Posted By: BRONZEBEE
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 06/20/14 04:28 PM
Take it to an engine shop and have them clean it, it will be clean inside and out.
Local engine shop charged me $20 couple years ago.
If you sandblast it for powder coating you will never get all the all the sand out! with out cleaning it first.
Posted By: ahy
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 06/21/14 12:39 AM
Quote:
On mine I'll chemically remove the rust, but what's the best way to fill the rust pits?
Agree the primer will fill pits. Sand and use rust stop primer first then high build. Sand and prime and sand again until it is as smooth as you want it. Satin looks good and is pretty forgiving. Agree stay away from flat.
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 06/22/14 05:51 PM
Sorry for getting back to this so late, but do you guys usually paint it before or after reassembly? I'd imagine before as your not dealing with the weight of all the other components.
Posted By: kentj340
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 06/22/14 09:36 PM
The original housing was painted at the factory naked, because you can see paint overspray inside. After that the unpainted backing plates, backing plate fasteners, and pig were mounted.
The backing plates and fasteners on my '69 8 3/4 are phosphated, not painted. And, of course, the original pig was bare and unpainted.
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 07/02/14 03:16 AM
So, I just went to Home Depot. I got some Rustoleum High Performance Enamel Primer and Flat Black cans. I hope a 15 oz can of each should be fine. But I'm still having trouble getting the clumps of 40 year old grease and dirt off. I've been taking some engine degreaser, letting it sit for 5 mins, then taking a steel brush by hand and scraping as much as I can off.
I may ask my friend to help me clean it when I take the housing over there on this weekend. I believe he has a proper cleaning station I could probably use. On that note, yes, the diff is going to be built soon.
Posted By: 340duster340
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 07/03/14 12:54 AM
Get a coarse wire brush and scrub it good.
Posted By: ahy
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 07/03/14 03:23 AM
I used aircraft paint stripper on mine. Start with it dry, goop it up heavily, let it work for 30 or so minutes and pressure wash. The stripper does well on grease not to mention any remaining paint. I had "California desert baked" grease on mine and it came clean after two rounds of the above treatment.
With the help of a breezy warm summer day, I cleaned, sanded, primed and painted it in one day. Paint has held up well.
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 07/03/14 05:04 AM
Quote:
I used aircraft paint stripper on mine. Start with it dry, goop it up heavily, let it work for 30 or so minutes and pressure wash. The stripper does well on grease not to mention any remaining paint. I had "California desert baked" grease on mine and it came clean after two rounds of the above treatment.
With the help of a breezy warm summer day, I cleaned, sanded, primed and painted it in one day. Paint has held up well.
Where can I get some? Maybe I'll go pick it up on Friday.
Posted By: RapidRobert
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 07/03/14 06:07 AM
Quote:
But I'm still having trouble getting the clumps of 40 year old grease and dirt off.
As you know it needs to be surgically clean for the paint to stick/last. You're getting close, dont get impatient this close to finishing
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 07/03/14 06:16 AM
Quote:
Quote:
But I'm still having trouble getting the clumps of 40 year old grease and dirt off.
As you know it needs to be surgically clean for the paint to stick/last. You're getting close, dont get impatient this close to finishing
Yeah, that's why I need to finish this by Friday. Diff housing and parts is going out on Saturday.
Posted By: 340duster340
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 07/03/14 12:53 PM
If you've spent more than an hour or two cleaning this your either doing something wrong or don't have the right equipment.
I cleaned mine on the back of my tailgate with engine -brite cleaner a hose, Wire brush and compressed air blower. Take a screwdriver and pick at or scratch off the heavy gunk. Be sure to pick out the clumps in the spring perches other than that because the shape doesn't have any concave surfaces there really shouldn't be anything that the wire brush can't handle.
I had a coating off Road grime about an eighth inch thick in places on the tubes that came off easy with the method described above. Also it's easier to scale/screech/wire brush it Before applying the decreaser.. this way you remove the gack rather than break It down and smear it all over
Posted By: ahy
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 07/04/14 01:04 AM
Quote:
Quote:
I used aircraft paint stripper on mine. Start with it dry, goop it up heavily, let it work for 30 or so minutes and pressure wash. The stripper does well on grease not to mention any remaining paint. I had "California desert baked" grease on mine and it came clean after two rounds of the above treatment.
With the help of a breezy warm summer day, I cleaned, sanded, primed and painted it in one day. Paint has held up well.
Where can I get some? Maybe I'll go pick it up on Friday.
Autozone usually stocks some or any heavy duty paint stripper from the home improvement store will do it.
Posted By: OzHemi
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 07/04/14 01:28 AM
If you bring it by, I can pressure wash it for you..
Posted By: OzHemi
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 07/04/14 01:29 AM
Or..that sand blast guy in Orange does a really good job, and pressure washes them out afterwards to get any media out and then bakes them...so no surface rusting..
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 07/04/14 11:06 PM
Went to Oz's this morning and we pressure washed it. I just got back from Home Depot. I'm going to go over it with some mineral spirits and a very fine steel brush pad and spray over a layer or two of primer.
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 07/05/14 02:02 AM
I decided to just keep it in primer for now. I know it's going to be scratched up in assembly so when I get it back I'll just sand it down, reapply the primer, then paint it. It's going to be a little bit of a pain with the extra weight, but it should be fine.
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: 8 3/4 Rebuild Questions from Disassembly to Assembly - 07/18/14 07:50 AM
I have a couple questions before I reassemble my rear end. I got the housing painted and my carrier is completely built. I just have to do the final assembly. I got all of my parts from Dr Diff. Everything was replaced with Timken bearings and I should have all of the proper gaskets on hand. After the carrier is set on with the gasket, what's the best way to install the axles and setting the proper axle play? I've read my service manual and it talks about utilizing the backing plates and a dial indicator to set it, but I don't plan on going to drum brakes and I don't have a dial indicator on me. I've got tapered axles on my setup. Also, there seems to be a spacer that's supposed to go in between the axles in the carrier. How am I supposed to set it in there without dropping it in the housing before I install my axles? Thanks for all of your help guys! You've been great help so far.
Posted By: 469runner
Re: 8 3/4 Rebuild Questions from Disassembly to Assembly - 07/18/14 04:31 PM
Coat that spacer with thick grease and shove it in.
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: 8 3/4 Rebuild Questions from Disassembly to Assembly - 07/18/14 06:41 PM
Quote:
Coat that spacer with thick grease and shove it in.
So just coat it in grease and throw it in the carrier before I install it in the housing? Then grease up the axles and slide the axles in adjusting the axle play?
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: 8 3/4 Rebuild Questions from Disassembly to Assembly - 07/20/14 07:20 PM
Also, when or how do I throw in the gear oil? I was told to use a GL5 rated 90w oil.
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: 8 3/4 Rebuild Questions from Disassembly to Assembly - 07/30/14 02:09 AM
I'm about to drop the carrier on the housing. Just to check to make sure, I can do this before I've placed gear oil into it, correct? And I'm still not quite sure where to put the gear hole. All I see is a drain plug on the carrier unless I have to add it somewhere on the housing.
Posted By: ratroaster
Re: 8 3/4 Rebuild Questions from Disassembly to Assembly - 07/30/14 02:58 AM
Install the carrier and the axles and set the bearing end play. Make sure you pack the axle bearings as these are not lubed by the gear oil. Once you get it all buttoned up, pull the fill plug and fill it up. Should take about 2 1/4 quarts. 80W/90 will work fine. Add Limited slip additive if its a sure grip. Done!!
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: 8 3/4 Rebuild Questions from Disassembly to Assembly - 07/30/14 03:41 AM
Quote:
Install the carrier and the axles and set the bearing end play. Make sure you pack the axle bearings as these are not lubed by the gear oil. Once you get it all buttoned up, pull the fill plug and fill it up. Should take about 2 1/4 quarts. 80W/90 will work fine. Add Limited slip additive if its a sure grip. Done!!
My friend already packed the axle bearings but I'm going to add a little more. I also just bought a gallon of 80W/90 and the limited slip additive. It's a true trac diff. Not the clutch type.
As for the axle end play. Since I'm not using the drum brake backing plates and I don't have dial indicators, do I just try to get the axle as close to zero end play as possible?
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 07/30/14 03:50 AM
Which gasket goes on first for the axles? The foam or the metal?
Posted By: ratroaster
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 07/30/14 04:13 AM
Metal first then the foam between the brake backing plate and bearing retainer.
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: Prepping an 8 3/4 for Paint or Powdercoating - 07/30/14 04:45 AM
Quote:
Metal first then the foam between the brake backing plate and bearing retainer.
And if I'm not using the brake backing plate do I just slide in the axles?
Edit: Shoot... Just realized I'm going to need to order my brake kit first as it has billet adapters... To Be Continued later in the week.
http://www.doctordiff.com/rear-disc-brake-kit-11.7-rotor.html
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: 8 3/4 Rebuild Questions from Disassembly to Assembly - 08/15/14 04:20 AM
I'm going to install my axles (since I got my brake kit in this week) either tonight or tomorrow. I'm a little bit nervous about getting the axle end play just right if anyone has any last minute tips and instructions of how to set up the diff. I really don't want to ruin a newly rebuilt diff.
Posted By: StealthWedge67
Re: 8 3/4 Rebuild Questions from Disassembly to Assembly - 08/15/14 05:19 AM
You said you got all your stuff from Dr. Diff. You sure you don't have sealed (green) bearings. They don't take an endplay adjustment. Either way, I'd call Cass and ask him for tips on assembly. He'll give you the straight scoop and you won't have to wonder which of us idiots here knows what hes doing and which one doesn't. Everything in my rear-end came from Cass, and I can say that he is great about helping you with technical questions.
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: 8 3/4 Rebuild Questions from Disassembly to Assembly - 08/15/14 05:22 AM
Quote:
You said you got all your stuff from Dr. Diff. You sure you don't have sealed (green) bearings. They don't take an endplay adjustment. Either way, I'd call Cass and ask him for tips on assembly. He'll give you the straight scoop and you won't have to wonder which of us idiots here knows what hes doing and which one doesn't. Everything in my rear-end came from Cass, and I can say that he is great about helping you with technical questions.
Yeah, I got everything from Cass too and I made sure I got the tapered bearings. No green bearings for me. Maybe I'll call him tomorrow morning.
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: 8 3/4 Rebuild Questions from Disassembly to Assembly - 08/15/14 06:53 PM
Based on his website, the web store is closed till Monday. I'll give him a call in a few to make sure.
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: 8 3/4 Rebuild Questions from Disassembly to Assembly - 08/15/14 09:29 PM
No luck... Called and he's on vacation till Monday. He did leave some instructions in his brake kit packet so I'm going to try and see if I can figure it out.
Edit: Found some instructions in this thread...
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=7921567&Main=7718094
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: 8 3/4 Rebuild Questions from Disassembly to Assembly - 08/15/14 10:46 PM
Ok, now I'm a little bit confused. set and bolted in the axles, but how do I adjust the axle play? There seems like there is little to no play on both sides no matter which way I spin the adjuster. I guess what I'm asking is what's acceptable so I don't eat wheel bearings?
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: 8 3/4 Rebuild Questions from Disassembly to Assembly - 08/16/14 06:10 AM
A friend called me and helped me out. I got started bolting on all the brake stuff. Now all I have to do is manage the lines. Thanks for all your help!
