Here is the 383 and tranny i picked up for my 66 sport fury. I need to do away w the a/c. Is there a kit that can be ordered to configure it with the correct pulleys and belts? Would there be much hp benefit to doing away w the fan and going to electric?
Thanks!

It's a matter of getting the crank pulley(2 groove) and the waterpump pulley for a non ac B/RB. You'll need an alternator mount kit also and you can switch out the 2 groove pulley for a single on the alternator.
http://www.herbsparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=987&cat=530

If the thermal clutch fan is still working (engageing when hot) I would keep it & if it ain't working I would replace it with another MP thermal clutch fan & not go to electric. Yes get the Herbs kit Pynzo mentioned. Wouldn't hurt to k.i.s.s. and keep the same pulley ratios in there if the water pump impeller is still a 6 blader. I'd mockup & see if you could keep the same pulleys just use different grooves unless someone confirms that that will not work & that you do need non AC pulleys. Measure the diameter of the crank/wp pulleys you have now for reference then there's the depth issue for belt alignment

IIRC the wp pulley is a single belt that had an adjuster for it.Its pretty easy to change the WP pulley and the alt brackets.I used to run the AC pulley lower on y 440.Just changed the brackets and the WP pulley.Remember old BBs had an odd bolt pattern on the crank pulley.New will fit IIRc.Rocky

So if i understand correctly,with the bracket kit, current pulleys should work?

I had an A/C pulley setup on my 383 when I first got it. One of the previous owners had removed every bit of the a/c setup with the exception of the alternator bracket and pulleys. The belt system did not line up very well without the compressor and caused noisy belts and premature wear. This is why I suggested the non a/c alternator kit and different pulleys. The simple clean setup. Compare the depth of your existing wp pulley to this non a/c and you'll see what I mean about belt alignment. Also with the new kit you need to remove the inner alternator bracket held onto the side of the head w/ 2 bolts as the new pivot bolt threads directly into the head.

Set of non AC pulleys in the last listing BB section for sale.They should be what you need.Rocky

I would just put A/C in the car.

Kevin.

I second putting/keeping A/C in the car.

IIRc the car dosent have AC.The motor he bought does.Thats why he wants to eliminate the AC stuff.Rocky

What Pynzo posted: get the triangle flat bracket, the slotted swing arm, some slip on bolt spacers (OE or can fab them) & flat washers to space them as needed. the hardest part is the pulleys, you need the right "depth" on both of em and that differs between the two and "diameters", I like to use the largest diameter crank pulley with the smallest diameter pump pulley for the fastest pump and alt speeds and a simple anticav plate takes care of any potential cav issues from the pump spinning too fast at higher RPM's plus it makes the pump much more efficient. On a BB split a circular plate then weld the 2 halves in behind the vanes

What year motor do you have. You could probably sell the complete ac system for decent money on eBay. Don't try and mix the setups. It won't work. Just buy the repop non ac stuff and save yourself a lot a trouble.

I just saw a pair of painted wp/crank pulleys in the FS section for $35. If they are the depth you need I'd be all over em at that price

that is a real deal. I lucked out when I ordered the pivot bolt with spacers from Herb's. They sent me the whole bracket kit with bolts and spacers for the same price, so I have a spare triangle bracket and slider if you need it.

I looked in the bb section and couldn't seem to find the last posting for the setup. I looked on bouchillon and didn't see a kit... I did see the separate parts, but not exactly sure what all I need. I am going to check the fs section again now. Thanks for the suggestions.
So if the wp spins TOO fast, it will cavitate? I don't follow how the anti cav plate works?

It's on the last page (5) & the 5th post up from (including) the last one. It's a PS set so the crank pulley has 2 grooves which I believe you'll need being it's going into a Fury. Dont sweat the cav issue right now.

Okay, I found the 2 and emailed the guy. How can I tell if they are the correct depth/ grooves that I need?

It's highly likely that these are a matched BB set with them both being painted & all & being offered together. Ask him If he had em on a BB with PS himself as he might just be flipping them & if so (he's used em) to give you first dibs on em all in the next email as they aint' gonna last long. I'd hate to direct you wrong but I have a real good feeling on this deal.

The wp will spin slower with this setup but not a problem w/o a/c. Most replacement pumps are 6 blade a/c nowadays, just one of the parts you're gonna want to change before firing up this motor as it does appear to be untouched. Timing chain/ gear set, oil pump, water pump, fuel pump, and heat riser at a minimum to get that motor to a good starting point. You can also eliminate the heat riser for better flow if reusing the ex manifolds.

I ran a 4 pulley set on my 440 for years.It had a single pulley WP.My 65 had no ps though.IIRC the bottom 4 pulley was an AC car.If the bottom pulley is a later year you need to open one hole a bit as Ma used an odd pattern and you also have to line up all the holes on damper and pulley.The March pulleys we run come with an elongated hole to fit both.Rocky