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Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: 71birdJ68] #1611743
04/26/14 11:19 AM
04/26/14 11:19 AM
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Mass
DAYCLONA Offline
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Quote:

You still haven't said weather you have a I, II, or III.







He has the Ignitor kit, basic smblk Mopar or Pertronix I (PNX 1381A)

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: DAYCLONA] #1611744
04/26/14 11:41 AM
04/26/14 11:41 AM
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Jefferson State
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srt Offline
ESYC
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Quote:

..BUT GET RID OF THE BALLAST RESISTOR ...



If you do this, buy a repo or make sure you have a spare original in case you want to return to points, or do a full on resto some day. oe resistors can be hard to find.

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: srt] #1611745
04/26/14 02:05 PM
04/26/14 02:05 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

..BUT GET RID OF THE BALLAST RESISTOR ...



If you do this, buy a repo or make sure you have a spare original in case you want to return to points, or do a full on resto some day. oe resistors can be hard to find.







If the OP does the #10 resistor wire in a replacement ballast, saves his "original" ballast, throws the points condenser and ballast in the glove box, if he has an issue with the Pertronix, it's a simple swap back, even on the roadside to get the car under way....that being said, I've been using the Pertronix conversion kits since the late 80"s, and have NEVER HAD ONE FAILURE of any Pertronix component, and I've done quite a few customers, friends, and my own rides with the conversion kits, but like anything, it's all about choosing the proper components, and a competent installation

Mike

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: DAYCLONA] #1611746
04/26/14 02:58 PM
04/26/14 02:58 PM
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Jefferson State
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srt Offline
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Quote:


If the OP does the #10 resistor wire in a replacement ballast, saves his "original" ballast, throws the points condenser and ballast in the glove box, if he has an issue with the Pertronix, it's a simple swap back, even on the roadside to get the car under way....that being said, I've been using the Pertronix conversion kits since the late 80"s, and have NEVER HAD ONE FAILURE of any Pertronix component, and I've done quite a few customers, friends, and my own rides with the conversion kits, but like anything, it's all about choosing the proper components, and a competent installation

Mike



I agree with all this. I too have been running pertronix since the late 80's early 90's on several vehicles with no failures (yet keep spare parts in the glove boxes in case). There is another way to bypass jumper the ballast that maintains the existing components inside by simply soldering in a piece of copper (ground wire or copper roofing scrap. Pertronix failure, snip the jumper, reinstall points and gap with folded business card or mstch book cover and you're on the road.
The little tag along terminal is a quick and efficient way to install the pertronix and is only one of more than one way to get 12v to the unit.
Let the op decide which is best. I've used the tag along for years with no problems and no one has noticed it.

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: srt] #1611747
04/26/14 05:10 PM
04/26/14 05:10 PM
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Posts: 1,397
Charleston, South Carolina
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67RT Offline OP
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Charleston, South Carolina
I've got the flamethrower coil on it and have it wired as Dayclona suggested. Still not starting, so we moved the distributor but still not wanting to start. The timing light does flash when cranking. I thought that maybe the plugs were fouled so I started pulling them out and they were in poor condition. I'm surprised the car ran as well as it did. If anyone has a suggestion for new plugs I would appreciate it. I have a set of new Champion J11y plugs that I found in my Coronet, just wondering if I should try those or a newer designed plug.

Thank you for all the suggestions.


1968 Fury III Convertible - 383 4bbl - 4-speed - Black
- SOLD and going down under.

1967 Coronet R/T - 440 - 4-speed - Dana 60 - Red - FOR SALE

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: 67RT] #1611748
04/26/14 05:25 PM
04/26/14 05:25 PM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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It's flashing so I'm thinking it ain't timed right. I'd get the timing marks on 15BTDC on #1 compression then set the P so its lined up/ready to fire with the rotor under the #1 dist cap. I think the trick is going to be turning the housing to the right position where the P is lined up/ready to fire the same as when points are ready to open or the reluctor tooth is just moving away from the magnet on a regular elec dizzy. If you have a new set of plugs on hand yes get em in there


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: RapidRobert] #1611749
05/03/14 04:02 PM
05/03/14 04:02 PM
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Posts: 1,397
Charleston, South Carolina
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67RT Offline OP
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Well I am happy to report it is running again! I bought a new set of plugs and put them in, but that was not without problems too…my bad luck. I was tightening one and noticed that one I had just put in had a broken insulator. I had to run to the store and exchange it.

Finally got the plugs in and tried starting it. I just kept moving the distributor a little bit until it sounded like it was going to fire. About the third try I finally had success!

I had the timing mark at TDC but it didn't run very strong. I've played with the timing and got it to run a lot better. I'm going to see if I can get my Dad to come over tomorrow and help me fine tune it.

I suppose the next plan should be going through the carb, but that might wait a little while.


1968 Fury III Convertible - 383 4bbl - 4-speed - Black
- SOLD and going down under.

1967 Coronet R/T - 440 - 4-speed - Dana 60 - Red - FOR SALE

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: 67RT] #1611750
05/03/14 04:36 PM
05/03/14 04:36 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA Offline
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Mass
Yay!...... , get a timing light on it, make sure the vacuum advance works, I'd start with 10 degree BTDC on the initial timing.....did you get rid of the ballast resistor?


Remember, if you have to work on the car with just the key in the run position, WITHOUT the engine running, disconnect the RED (POSITIVE+ wire) lead from the Pertronix set up at the coil connection for prolonged troubleshooting, otherwise you might damage the HallCell, 20-30 seconds is the most you want the key in the on /run position without the engine running...

Are you running a copper terminal dist cap?...hope so


If you have any questions, or issues, don't hesitate to ask on Moparts

Mike

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: DAYCLONA] #1611751
05/04/14 12:09 AM
05/04/14 12:09 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,397
Charleston, South Carolina
6
67RT Offline OP
pro stock
67RT  Offline OP
pro stock
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,397
Charleston, South Carolina
Yes, I modified the ballast resistor like you said and put a piece of wire in there, so far it is working and looks factory. I believe I do have the timing set BTDC, I adjusted it by the way it sounds and runs. Going to try to get it better tomorrow.

It's a stock 383 4bbl with 129k miles, I don't think the engine's been rebuilt. I know the carb is the original one but I'm not sure if it's ever been rebuilt either. I'm not necessarily afraid of trying to rebuild it, it is more the tuning that worries me.


1968 Fury III Convertible - 383 4bbl - 4-speed - Black
- SOLD and going down under.

1967 Coronet R/T - 440 - 4-speed - Dana 60 - Red - FOR SALE

Re: Pertronix Ignition and Ballast Resistor [Re: 67RT] #1611752
05/04/14 12:59 AM
05/04/14 12:59 AM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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borrow a light & set it at 10 or 15 & what Dayclona said dont do anything that will fry the delicate P electronics


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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