Assuming I can chop saw cut a section out of each side/square up the cut pieces/weld em so both end flanges are parallel, would this suffice or do I need to bite the bullet & send it all in to Moser. I'd sure like to avoid the ~3 bills that will set me back .. Online threads refer to the locating mandrel shaft with the locating bushings on each end to locate the housing pieces before welding them & talk about out of round in thousands. If I get the end flanges parallel wouldn't I be OK? Your thoughts please. thank you for your time.

You can build a jig for 8.75" . You need a 3rd member to hold some machined pucks to fit in the bearing caps and some machined pucks to fit in the housing ends (I would use big Ford ends)and a dead straight shaft to fit through all four pucks. Cut the housing to length, assemble the parts holding it all together with worm gear hose clamps and weld in small steps going from one end to the other to avoid warping the housing. And shazaam you have a welded narrowed housing and the tool to do it for your friends.

Pete, Ok, coming up with a round straight bar of say 1" dia will be easy then 2 round alum pucks, one to fit the housing end and the other to fit in the cap with it bolted down with the 2 bolts then drill a 1" hole in both of em to fit the bar. All three together to locate the ends for tack welding. Sound Ok so far? Getting the right dia pucks is the only part that'll take some effort.

Not cheap, but it's already made:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mbt-1000-renk1?seid=srese1&gclid=CKfyiMq9x70CFVKFfgodyIEAvg

Look around and you might find a better deal...

Tony you are the man , thank you!

See pic #47

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...e=0#Post7972701

The ebay puck deal looks like a cost effective solution, let us know.

My first Dana narrowing job was done with a friend in 1997. We threw it together w/o a jig. He welded it with his Mig. I used the early "green" bearings on the axles that allow for a lot of misalignment. I made two trips from Seattle to Reno and back and it rested in the garage a lot. The last time I drove it, the right axle bearing was talking to me.
I have learned that perfect alignment is the answer to a lot of problems. Use a jig, you will be glad you did.

Here's why you need an alignment bar....parallel is irrelevant if it's offset.

Yeah I initially missed the offset concept & was just thinking about parallelism. thanks a bunch guys . the eBay kit (the cheaper one) is on it's way. Now to locate a straight bar & a buddy is a pro welder

I sound like a well worn record on the LCA stiffening plates topic. To keep you OT, I'll send a PM since you asked, but first, at least read the first paragraph of my signature link on bias.

1 1/4 keyed shafting for pto applications is easy to come by at most any truck garage. Hard steel and usually straight even used. New stuff is about 80.00 for a 6 ft stick.

Goat I will check into that as I do need it

RR I will be doing the same thing to a Dana.Luckily a member offered me his setup tool to use.My buddy will weld it up as he is totally certified in all welding apps.I just need to get some extra cash.Im going to shorten mine about 1/2 inch each side and move the springs inboard.Rocky

Rock if I read that right on the tool site, a Dana takes a different setup tool than the 8&3/4 does. After sourcing the needed rod I'll have a chunk of change into this but I sure wasn't comfortable paying Moser ~3 bills to do something that seems pretty simple especially when I have a good welder available. Holler how it goes for you and do you already have the axle part taken care of/or know what you want to do on that?

Gus with the nice 64 gave me the Dana.Its a truck unit.Im going 4.30s and a good SG.Ill get 35 spline axles also.Ill buy them from DR Diff as I know nothing about Danas.It will be a while till I start on it.Then it will be one piece at a time.I also have to decide if I want to shorten my DS or go with another 4 speed and shaft.Mine is the B&T shaft.Rocky

I've narrowed several including a Pontiac rear for a 55 chevy. the bars used were 1 1/2", 1 1/4" and a hydraulic cylinder shaft from a back hoe. we were lucky that the shafting around here was for trading services, the pucks were bar ends from the scrap pile which we machined at home to fit the rears bearing ends and center sections, and we straightened the housings as needed using a 20ton jack, chain, a piece of 12" heavy I-beam and a rosebud torch. that allowed the pucks for the bearings to just breeze in with a .002 clearance on the bearing and shaft holes for the axle ends. just a side note, on the Pontiac rear, before we started, just for grins we tried the alignment and the one end was off almost 3/8" ! the car the rear came from was never in a crash nor was there ever any problems with the rear reported ! if I remember correctly, the rear had approximately 80k on the clock. anyway, the point of this saga is around here we have to look around to find the best bang for the buck. we usually have more time than $$$ plus, it hones our skills as an added benefit.

You sir are "the man"!!

I have learned that I will always have more time than money and whenever I can properly solve a problem by myself (or with a little help from a friend) I count that as a win.

I recall Cass, aka doc diff telling me 9 out of 10 8 3/4 housings are out of wack before you narrow it. You may want to check it before you start. You can straighten a slightly bent housing by welding on the tube, as welding expands the metal and then grinding the weld off, some say they stay straight longer that way, I don't know one way or the other.

Yes I have my work cut out for me still as I still have to locate a bar and an empty pumpkin. Luckily my buddy welds for me for very chaep