8 3/4 Rear Drum Brake help...
#1600222
03/29/14 07:37 PM
03/29/14 07:37 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375 SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
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OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
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So I've got an 8 3/4 that came out of a '70 Dart. I took one side of the drum brake all apart but am now stuck putting it back together. I have two primary problems regarding my old shoe. The first is I'm not sure how to remove the horse clip that big chunk of metal that holds in the anti-rattle spring/beam thing.
Also, did I make a mistake by ordering '68 shoes. I've got a pin on my old drums to hold the adjusting lever but they're not on my new ones. Am I supposed to remove this somehow, if so, how?
Last edited by MuuMuu101; 03/29/14 07:40 PM.
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Re: 8 3/4 Rear Drum Brake help...
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1600223
03/29/14 07:41 PM
03/29/14 07:41 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12,291 Kent, Wa
340SHORTY
Truck Nut
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Truck Nut
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12,291
Kent, Wa
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the anti-rattle spring/beam thing
LOL
that the lever for the parking brake. Pry it apart. The new shoes should have a new 1 in the box. 68 should be the same.
I am truckless..
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Re: 8 3/4 Rear Drum Brake help...
[Re: MO_PA]
#1600231
03/30/14 01:04 AM
03/30/14 01:04 AM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375 SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
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OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
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Quote:
Close up the horseshoe clip before it comes off, looks to me that black spring is wrong, should be a second spring like the yellow one in the other hole below where the black spring is in the shoe. Something don't look right with the spring at the bottom of the shoes, it serves two purposes, return spring to pull the shoes against the adjuster and it keeps the adjuster from turning freely.
Quote:
Also, are both those shoes the same size? You should have a "short" shoe on the front side, and a longer shoe on the rear side.
I ended up pinching the horse clips afterwards. Yeah, I kind of figured I screwed up somewhere. Just took a look and I used the two short shoes. I don't think I was supposed to punch that one pin into the short one. Luckily, I accidentally bought two kits. Also, the parking brake cable protrudes past the spring that sits right above the adjuster and I couldn't figure that out for the life of me.
I'll work on it Monday most likely. Here is a picture of the other side from this morning...
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Re: 8 3/4 Rear Drum Brake help...
[Re: skicker]
#1600233
03/30/14 01:20 AM
03/30/14 01:20 AM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375 SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
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OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
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Quote:
Quote:
Also, are both those shoes the same size? You should have a "short" shoe on the front side, and a longer shoe on the rear side.
Think of it like a mullet...long in the back and short in the front. That's the only way I remember how they're supposed to go.
That's good to know... So far, all I have to say is I like disc brakes way better. They're so much nicer to work on. No springs for your springs on top of springs connected to springs.
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Re: 8 3/4 Rear Drum Brake help...
[Re: Dons Dart]
#1600235
03/30/14 01:59 PM
03/30/14 01:59 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375 SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
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OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
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Quote:
your aduster is on the wrong way also turn it around.
Which adjuster? The bottom one? If I turn that around the lever wouldn't even contact it to hold it in place.
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Re: 8 3/4 Rear Drum Brake help...
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1600236
03/30/14 03:21 PM
03/30/14 03:21 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,751 Graham, WA
Polarapete
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,751
Graham, WA
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The stamped metal piece at the bottom of the assembly has to contact the adjuster that spreads the brake shoes to maintain close contact to the brake drum. There is a right and a left to these parts and they are marked with "L" and "R". When the car is reversed the metal piece drops down and picks up a tooth on the adjuster and pulls it upwards when the brake is released, if you have reversed the pieces, they won't engage. These parts do wear out and are commonly available new. I like to put a small dab of anti-seize on the contact points on the backing plates (where the brake shoe metal touches) and on the threads of the adjuster. Old backing plates will have a groove worn in the metal from contact at 6 places, you can grind it smooth if it is a small groove or fill it with weld if it is deep and then grind smooth. Disc brakes are great on the front and drum brakes are better on the rear for parking brake, wedging effect, simplicity, etc. etc..
1986 Dodge Ramcharger 440 2wd, Bracket Racer Under Construction 1998 Ram 2500 QuadCab, new daily driver. 2008 Honda Element 2014 Carry-On 7x14 Cargo Trailer
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Re: 8 3/4 Rear Drum Brake help...
[Re: CR8CRSHR]
#1600238
03/30/14 03:24 PM
03/30/14 03:24 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375 SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
|
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
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Quote:
Surprising that no one here has asked if you have a FSM...Factory Service Manual???? A good reference for getting those brakes re-done right...But we are also here to help and what was mentioned above is correct
That's what I was using while referencing the other side of the rear end.
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