Guys need a little help here. Have spent the last 6 hours messing with the electrical on my 70 Charger. Keep in mind the car has not been operated for the last 12 years. So the car has new dimmer switch, turn signal switch, dash circuit board. new rear tail light harness and engine harness. The under dash harness looks great with no splices or what looks like tampering with the dash harness. replaced the fuses and both flashers. OK on to problem.
When I connect the battery, the hazard flasher starts going and I have rear hazards immediately. If I turn the headlights on, I get the left dash light on immediately. Not sure why, but I do. If I turn the turn signals on, BOTH flashers start going and its a mess. Then when I try to turn the turn signals off, in the center position, both flashers continue to go off until I turn off the key and then just the hazard flasher continues to go. I have no brake lights either but the brake switch is untested at this point. I disconnected the headlight switch and the light goes off in dash, but the flashers continue. I also stopped the emergency flashers at the fuse box, and the left and right turn signals worked as they should , but once again, as soon as I tried to turn the turn signals off, the turn signal flasher continued and once again I had FLASHERS, both of them going again. Taillights are properly grounded and they work. Nothing obvious that I can see. I keep leaning towards the new turn signal switch. Is it possible the color coordination is off from the original? Unfortunately my original was destroyed. Any help is appreciated. Keep in mind I do know electrical decently well, and its not a bulb or the rear lights needing grounded. Ive done all the obvious. I just need a new direction or how to break this down. I have a 68 and 69 schematic but not a 70. Thanks guys!!

70 electrical system is different because of the ignition and hazard in the column , you need to get a 70 schematic first and foremost.

Can't give any specific suggestions but you can get the '70 wiring diagram here; http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=27

Here is info about testing the t/s switch and which wire does what.

It will do funny things if you don't have a good ground.

Push the hazzard switch in and push the dimmer switch once to turn the brights off!

The lamp housings in the front valance need attention also.

Check the wiring to and from the ammeter and the thick red and black wires going into the bulkhead connector. Peel back a little wiring covering and check. If those wiring starts to toast it will do really weird things. I could not turn off my side marker lights but I could dim them from the dash dimmer switch last time it happened to me.

Those wires can start to melt from high amperage flow either by electrical loads or overcharging alternators. When they do they melt into other wires and provide current to circuits that could be anything from wipers to hazards and act really freaky.

Good Luck

Working with the TS half of the TS harness connector. with the stalk in neutral there should be continuity between the white wire (which is coming from the brake light switch) and the 2 wires to the R & L rear brake/ts large filaments. with the stalk raised one of those 2 wires should go dead & another seperate one gets hot which is to the TS flasher. With the stalk down the first wire to the rear that went dead should be now be hot again and either the same wire to the flasher that got hot when you raised the stalk or another wire to the same flasher gets hot (I ain't sure/check the diagram). #1 I'd find out if the TS harness/switch mechanism under the st wheel is good or bad & go from there

Thanks for the replys. The ground thing is a bit irritating considering the car has all of its correct grounds and the tail lamps are working so I know its getting feed and ground. If a ground problem the tail lights wouldn't work. I know this because Ive had numerous intances where the tail panel was painted and the lamps weren't grounded anymore. This seems like circuits are getting crossed somewhere. I doubt seriously that a ground is causing 2 flashers to work simultaneously. Something more is going on. I guess tomorrow is a new day. In fact I may just take a break from it and tackle again on Saturday.

Best thing a mechanic can do sometimes is take a 48 hr break & get regrounded/clear the mind

I add a ground strap from the dash to the A-post above the ebrake on every car I work on.

Brad