Quote:

---

Have decided against windage tray for now as I wish to use no sealer or silicone. Additionally have read online and been told by a friend that has a 490 Cuda stroker that windage tray must be notched for pickup,,,,,as well as a notch to be made in K member.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Have decided against windage tray for now as I wish to use no sealer or silicone. Additionally have read online and been told by a friend that has a 490 Cuda stroker that windage tray must be notched for pickup,,,,,as well as a notch to be made in K member.

---

Hmm, no need to notch the K member to run a windage tray and no need for sealer or silicone just because you have a windage tray either.

Does the pan fit properly without the pick up installed? This being a stroker kit and Milodon makes no mention of any issues, test fit it.

The Milodon site gives that pan number as being a circle track pan and the part number for the pickups do not match your part number.

http://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/circle-track-ford-chrys.asp

---

This oil pickup on my original post was in error,,,I had said it was 18326,,, shoulda said 18328. I will edit/correct this. Thanks for the good eye,,,I do have 18328 which is correct.

I did get the pan in place by tightening the pickup a few more degrees clockwise(toward passenger side),,,now is about 5 pm right of crank centerline instead of 6 pm. This gave me the room that I needed to clear flywheel.

But of course with the geometry of the pickup, this likely lifted the nozzle a bit more off the pan floor,,,had about 5/16ths before moving it a bit,,,,now perhaps I will have full suggested 3/8ths,,,,perhaps will drop pan and measure again. Likely close enough for government work however.

By the way. Thank you Milodon for saving yourselves a buck by not enclosing a required 1/2 inch plug to fill the drilled and tapped hole in the side of the pan sump for the oil temp gauge which I don't have,,,,took me an hour trip to run one down,,,plus a 15 minute chat with Summit while they figured out what this hole was for,,,,so anyone ordering this pan,,,,don't forget that you too may need one.

Be aware that you will not be able to use your torque wrench on those pan bolts that reside above the widened sump on either side of this pan,,,,I firmly suspect that many gasket leaking can be attributed to just cinching these bolts by feel. With compressible gaskets,,,you may think that you are at required 15 pounds,,,but when you check further with a torque wrench, you are likely closer to 5 to 10',,,,we are all paranoid to twist off a bolt,,,,,,also use lock washers,,,locktite is almost worthless in this oily environment,,,,particularly with ARP stainless bolts and their non locking flat washers. Don!t ask how I know, but to cut the story short, I have spoken at length with locktite(a very bright lady there) and to ARP,,,where there tech short answer was to tighten their bolts to 24 pounds,,,,can we guess what this does to a pan gasket getting squosed out,,,not to mention the likely destruction of most pan flanges.

I plan some more research on k frame notching. Seems to be a bit of mixed opinions out there,,,,just as with silicone sealers, windage trays and then too rear main seals. Recently installed Mancini/440 source billet solution. Yet to determine how this has worked out,,,,but so far looks far better than other solutions,,,,just got to get this pan problem(again bad story) put to bed first

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Have decided against windage tray for now as I wish to use no sealer or silicone. Additionally have read online and been told by a friend that has a 490 Cuda stroker that windage tray must be notched for pickup,,,,,as well as a notch to be made in K member.

---

Hmm, no need to notch the K member to run a windage tray and no need for sealer or silicone just because you have a windage tray either.

Does the pan fit properly without the pick up installed? This being a stroker kit and Milodon makes no mention of any issues, test fit it.

The Milodon site gives that pan number as being a circle track pan and the part number for the pickups do not match your part number.

http://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/circle-track-ford-chrys.asp

---

Quote:

---

Regarding pickup to pan clearance. If you look at a stock pickup there is a sheet metal cover on the bottom. This cover is supposed to just touch the bottom and this sets the proper spacing. A lot of aftermarket pickups do not have this cover so you must set the clearance, 3/8" is probably just fine for you.
...

---

Quote:

---

Milodon pickup have a standoff to set that clearance and help protect the pickup clearance if the bottom of the pan is crushed.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Milodon pickup have a standoff to set that clearance and help protect the pickup clearance if the bottom of the pan is crushed.

---

Milodon doesn't show a picture of that pickup and the Summit one is generic.

But at the very bottom of the page on Milodon's website I linked it does state

"Pick-Up to Pan Bottom Clearance MUST Be Checked and Adjusted from 1/4" to 3/8"."

So the OP should be good.

---

Here's the standoff built into the small block road race pickup screen.

Quote:

---

My stock oil pan on 70 Challenger Six Pack, 440 Source 512 inch stroker developed a metal fatigue crack,,,bad story. Purchased a Milodon Road Race(31580) pan, correct oil pickup(corrected to 18328,,I had originally in error said 18326)billet oil pump(21814), and pump drive bronze gear shaft(21525).

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-31580/overview/

Have measured for clearance and mounted oil pickup. Am a bit uncertain as to where the pickup nozzle should be in relation to crankshaft center line,,,,off to either side of dead center, or dead center?

In attempting to install pan, I do get the pickup nozzle started into the back most square hole in the pan. But am unable to push the pan all the way up toward the block and forward enough to allow the back of the pan to clear the flywheel(approximately 1/4 inch). The hang up appears to be the tube of the oil pick up where it curves up from the pickup nozzle itself.

Is there some secret to this Chinese puzzle that I'm missing. I have tried rotating the engine so as to offer more clearance at the front of the pan,,,however do not think this is the problem.

Have decided against windage tray for now as I wish to use no sealer or silicone. Additionally have read online and been told by a friend that has a 490 Cuda stroker that windage tray must be notched for pickup,,,,,as well as a notch to be made in K member. I feel all of this is too much to pay for a few more suspect horsepower. Would prefer to run a bit low on oil if push comes to shove.

Are there suggestions as to proper dipstick to use?

Engine has Edie heads, Comp Cams Extreme Energy Roller Hydraulic, Scorpian lifters, Bee Hive springs, and Passon 4speed transmission. Just a good street car, believe my dragstrip days are behind me,,,,but am off to Spring Fling in a couple of weeks, and Goodguys Pleasanton next weekend.

Thank you

---

Quote:

---

Regarding pickup to pan clearance. If you look at a stock pickup there is a sheet metal cover on the bottom. This cover is supposed to just touch the bottom and this sets the proper spacing. A lot of aftermarket pickups do not have this cover so you must set the clearance, 3/8" is probably just fine for you.

As for torquing the pan bolts, there are torque wrenched that use replaceable ends, you can have a ratchet head, or a box end or an open end so you can get into tight spots to torque the bolts in any case. Not cheap at all, but works well.

http://www.pr-laesser.de/downloads/stahlwille/STW202_Drehmo730D.jpg

---

Quote:

---

Here's the standoff built into the small block road race pickup screen.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Regarding pickup to pan clearance. If you look at a stock pickup there is a sheet metal cover on the bottom. This cover is supposed to just touch the bottom and this sets the proper spacing. A lot of aftermarket pickups do not have this cover so you must set the clearance, 3/8" is probably just fine for you.

As for torquing the pan bolts, there are torque wrenched that use replaceable ends, you can have a ratchet head, or a box end or an open end so you can get into tight spots to torque the bolts in any case. Not cheap at all, but works well.

http://www.pr-laesser.de/downloads/stahlwille/STW202_Drehmo730D.jpg

---

http://www.amazon.com/gp/prime/handle-buy-box.html/ref=dp_start-bbf_1_glance

Basic unit on Xmas wish list.

Layout of pan bolts and expanded sump, am able to torque about 12 of 20 bolts.

Those that I was able to torque to 15 pounds yesterday, I checked today. They all were now all less than 12 pounds, a couple @ 10. Engine not yet started. This is all likely gasket compression,,,again no sealer of any kind used. Those that I cannot torque, I tightened as much as possible with 1/4 inch Snap On ratchet(must have tool for this job with engine in the car),,then 1/2 turn more or less.

Those of you experiencing intransigent oil pan leaking, take note.

---