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Black is 1968. Colored began in 69.

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I need to replace the "road runner" door emblem on my 1969 rr. However, the emblems on the car now have a "brushed" chrome (dull) look with a black background and the only new replacements I can find are gloss chrome with the black background. I am fairly certain the emblems on my rr are original, and I would like to keep the car as original as possible. Does anyone have any information on which type of emblem would be correct for a 1969 road runner?

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I pm'd the OP that I had some nice originals but did not receive any response.

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He's probably still reading thru thousands of PM's on his overheating problem

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I would like to keep the car as original as possible.

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Then you need to restore your original emblems. I know the new road runner emblems in the Mopar plastic bags you will have to file the holes to get them to fit. They bend really easy too! And yes, they are brushed with black edges.

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70FJ6 roadrunner,

Are you saying there are "brushed" emblems I can be bought but they need to be slightly modified, and they will look correct? If so, can you tell me where they can be purchased?

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JohnRR - why are you busting on me because of my overheating problem? You're right, I did receive close to 100 posts but I read them all quite expeditiously; that's all history now.

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How did you finally fix the problem? Curious minds want to know.

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Then you need to restore your original emblems. I know the new road runner emblems in the Mopar plastic bags you will have to file the holes to get them to fit. They bend really easy too! And yes, they are brushed with black edges.

70FJ6 roadrunner,

Are you saying there are "brushed" emblems I can be bought but they need to be slightly modified, and they will look correct? If so, can you tell me where they can be purchased?

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JohnRR - why are you busting on me because of my overheating problem? You're right, I did receive close to 100 posts but I read them all quite expeditiously; that's all history now.

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How did you finally fix the problem? Curious minds want to know.

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ere's my fear with these and I speak from experience. They are made of zinc diecast which is a very brittle material. If you try to bend it or bend it by accident (like while holding it to a buffer wheel !) it will snap in a heartbeat and repair is virtually impossible on an item that small.

The originals also have a very rough edge around the back which you need to retain for originality.

So if it were me ...


Thanks for the info Stanton. Based on this post here, someone contacted me and has provided me with an Original (1969) set of emblems. I haven't received them yet, and they are not NOS, but from the pics I saw, any deficiencies that would not be acceptable for a shown car, I believe I can fix with carful touch up. That's what keeps restoration interesting...

1) I would glass bead each piece myself to remove the black paint (or use paint stripper).
2) I would get a block of wood and drill holes to mount each piece in so that they can be held rigid to work on.
3) I would "sand" them to get the "brushed" finish I want
4) take them to a local plater and say "here, plate 'em - nickel & chrome only".

You'll have to explain why you're doing this. If they try to triple plate you'll lose the brushed finish after the first copper dip - which they always buff before the next step. What you want is just a nickel dip then the chrome and these will leave the "brushed" marks.

Redo the black yourself.

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Completely rebuilt the engine. Several different things were discovered during the rebuild that contributed to the overheating, things like, extremely lean carb setting, piston to wall clearance was very tight at one to one and a half thousandth, there was some debris in the bottom of the block, 2 cracks in the left side head, one bank of cylinders was bored slightly crooked when compared to the crank centerline, things like that, no one thing to point to so you can say "yea that was it", but a lot of little things that we feel contributed to the engine running hot. We ran the engine for 40 minutes on a test stand, with my radiator, and it didn't overheat, however, the conditions were not the same either. I won't be convinced the problem is fixed until I can run it (let it idle) on a 95 degree day and it doesn't overheat. I am in the process of reassembling the car now (I upgraded a few things since it was going to be down all winter)just waiting for decent weather to paint the engine (I will paint the engine outdoors) and drop it back in the car. I'll keep you advised.

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