For a short time i am using a B & M Pro Rachet shifter in my 66 satellite with a 440 w/TTI headers i know there is not alot of room but does anyone have any idea the best way to route the cable so it dont burn up any ideas from some of you who have used one i would be very open to suggestion..

We normally go around the right side near the dipstick tube, across the bottom of the bellhousing using the two lower bolts to secure the cable, and then around the corner to the shift arm. Some additional brackets may be needed depending on clearance
This is assuming the cable comes in from the front of the trans

Sweet that is a good idea when i ran mine it seemed no matter where i put it some how it got burnt up.. Thanks i will look at that really grateful for the info..

Quote:

---

We normally go around the right side near the dipstick tube, across the bottom of the bellhousing using the two lower bolts to secure the cable, and then around the corner to the shift arm. Some additional brackets may be needed depending on clearance
This is assuming the cable comes in from the front of the trans

---

I've replied before on this and have been called everything from a fool to a liar. Well, they didn't say that, but everyone sure implied that they had no problems at all. At all. as in ever. Mine was a 73 Charger with a B&M Star Shifter. I wrapped the cable with header wrap, muffler wrap, and everything else I could think of. I used springs and bracketry and everything else to keep it away from header heat. The thin plastic sheath would melt. It didn't matter what length of cable I used or how I routed it, it would be in close proximity of the headers and cause meltdown. I would seriously look into something else. Or, if nothing else, drill holes in your trans tunnel, use rubber grommets, and rout the cable INSIDE your car, then back out to connect to your trans. Think outside the box. Good luck. Those people that said they had no problems never said how they routed theirs or what length of cable they used. I also had problems with the shifter being adjusted properly to work correctly. Why do you think you need to shift an automatic? Seriously? It shifts on it's own. Set up correctly, you don't need to shift by hand. There is absolutely no reason to overide an automatic, unlesss you are trying to overcome the governor. You cannot phyisically outshift an automatic transmission, if it is set up properly. (Just my opinion, some may disagree) USE FACTORY stuff, and you won't run into this problem. Do you think that you can outshift an automatic? I bought a Buick Grand National brand new, back in 1987. I tried to ram the gas pedal to the floor and shift manually. ONE TIME. That's all it took for me to realize what a dumbass I was. By the time I was trying to shift into second, the car was wanting to go into third. I probably caused the damage that warranted the trans being rebuilt at 100.000 miles later. I never attempted that again. Why the hell are you using a cheap aftermarket shifter with a crappy plastic cable system? Why not go factory and let the transmission do it's job? I will get flamed for this. Whatever. You cause your own problems. Go factory. Ditch the cheesy plastic shifter cable. I spent countless hours of downtime, countless hours trying to make a workaround. Factory had it covered from day one. Everything fit, everything worked. No more hassle or headache trying to re-engineer something that was thought out from the get go. If this is a street car, get over it and go factory stuff. The magazine articles lie to you to sell copies. Nothing ever works as well as factory designed stuff. No onwe ever has problems in magazine land. lol.

The B&M shifter unfortunately has the cable come in from the front. I had one melt. After I replaced it, I used an insulating thermal heat sleeve like what is offered by Jeg's in the mini-catalog I just got today (page 17-A lower left). Their stuff comes in sizes from 1/4" to 1" ID and lengths from 3' to 10'. It may be spendy, but how much fun is it to buy new cables and replace them?

Let me guess, you had a column mount shifter? And put an aftermarket floor shifter in it's place? And found that the shifter linkage and headers wanted to occupy the same spot? Then, your best bet is to get a factory console floor mounted shifter set up and go from there. Your very, very best bet, would to be ditch those headers and get some factory style high po exhaust manifolds. And a good exhaust. TTI makes good down pipes to attatch to factory hi po exhaust manifolds. Then into your exhaust system. For the street, all the benifits of high flow, lose all the problems with headers. Factory hi-po flows within a few cfm of headers. Headers only add 10 to 20 hp from what I have read. THEY ARE NOT WORTH THE HASSLE! for the money. People running FAST do it on factory style exhaust, running 10's. Headers are the biggest waste of money per headaches that I have ever encountered. You want obnoxious loud? They make mufflers for that. Just my personal opinion.

I must admit that Bambi has a point. Back in the day we all thought we were cool with our cable shifters and RMVBs. A few months back our club got the low down from a former NHRA/IHRA Super Gas champ. It seem his tranny guy spent a lot of time perfecting the automatic shift points in the 727, weighing and adjusting the governor weights for specific shift points. His shifter was mostly for show, when he launched he never touched the shifter until he cleared the lights and then just nudged it into neutral to save the rods. This left him able to hold the wheel perfectly straight with both hands and take the shortest route from A to B. I think he used a factory shifter in his Challenger.

If you want reliability and daily drivability - go factory. You want constant breakdowns and constant repairs, go aftermarket. There is a reason that the factories spent so much money developing these cars. They designed them to work within specific parameters. Aftermarket was designed to make them work, for the most part, off track. My advice? DITCH THAT POS B&M shifter, and go factory. Then, ditch those POS headers and go factory Hi-po (Year one, where ever)Then enjoy your ride. Hop up the engine, whatever, but keep the shifting and exhaust OEM style. I spent SO many countless hours working on my Charger, before small starters, rebuilding starters, replacing plug wires, ALL the head aches that came with [Edited by Moparts - Family Friendly Site - Keep it clean] headers. If you want to just drive and enjoy. DON"T MESS WITH IT ALL. My 67 Coronet came with bench seats. IF IT IS JUST A STREET CAR? WHY? lol. I have bought everything from the console to everything related to make it a floor shifted vehicle. Shifter and everything,,bucket seats, for less than a set of expensive headers. It can be done. If you want to keep buying cables, then you are on your own. God help you.

Yes you are right 30 years ago I had a dedicated race car and went from column to floor cable shift. I will put headers on the D100 318SB and the Ramcharger 440BB. The D100 will keep the column shift with auto VB and the Ramcharger will have a TCI shifter with a cable that comes in from the back and avoids all the hot spots (even so I will wrap it with the fire sleeve). I already had the trans built with a RMVB, so I will still be shifting away, but if I had known the secret it might have been different. The exhaust on the D100 will be mellow, not obnoxious and the Ramcharger will have mufflers, too even though it will be race only

With a few modest mods, I ran my cable in from the rear to the lever. I anchored the end of the cable to a stud I screwed into the kick down pivot and used the adjuster nuts on the cable housing to move the lever.

That way, I was able to route it away from the major heat sources. And for extra insurance, I used a heat resistant sleeve on it too. I got the sleeve off some GM (I know ) car in the pick and pull yard.

I had that issue on my Mirada once.... A freind of mine works of aircraft and gave me a 3' section of Aerosleave that they use at work to shield fuel lines, ignition wiring from heat sensitive areas. That shifter cable is 20+ years old now and as far as I know, is still working. Stuff used to be hard to find, but as mentioned above, you can get it at Jegs/Summit.

http://www.extremeheatprotection.com/hig...ace-as1072.html

Thanks i sent you a PM lets talk thanks ....

Quote:

---

With a few modest mods, I ran my cable in from the rear to the lever. I anchored the end of the cable to a stud I screwed into the kick down pivot and used the adjuster nuts on the cable housing to move the lever.

That way, I was able to route it away from the major heat sources. And for extra insurance, I used a heat resistant sleeve on it too. I got the sleeve off some GM (I know ) car in the pick and pull yard.

---

Thanks i am looking into that as well i really do appreciate it thanks.

Quote:

---

I had that issue on my Mirada once.... A freind of mine works of aircraft and gave me a 3' section of Aerosleave that they use at work to shield fuel lines, ignition wiring from heat sensitive areas. That shifter cable is 20+ years old now and as far as I know, is still working. Stuff used to be hard to find, but as mentioned above, you can get it at Jegs/Summit.

http://www.extremeheatprotection.com/hig...ace-as1072.html

---

A couple of fixes. A fabbed bellcrank at the lower back tab on the trans. This will change the direction of the cable at the trans. Cable can now come in from the back. Second, cut the cable down to about 12" and connect it to the factory mechanical linkage. You'll need to extend the arm that connected to the factory shifter a little to gain the correct geometry.
Doug

Thanks i really like all your help its nice to hear what other have done since i alway seem to burn one up. I may ask for a few picture if you could...

I am overwhelmed at all the good ideas other have thanks its a big help.

I use a B&M Quicksilver in my 67 Satellite. Cable comes through the floor, forward above the starter, then I route it between the starter and the block. This keeps it tight to the tranny, and away from the exhaust. Exits below the starter and runs straight back to the shift arm on the tranny.

I've had it like this for years without a problem. The only time I have burned a cable was a few years back, but that happened when I tried to route the cable a different way with zip ties and such. Went back to the between the starter and block path when I replaced it.

Did you happen to have a shorter cable or the one that comes with it originaly

Quote:

---

I use a B&M Quicksilver in my 67 Satellite. Cable comes through the floor, forward above the starter, then I route it between the starter and the block. This keeps it tight to the tranny, and away from the exhaust. Exits below the starter and runs straight back to the shift arm on the tranny.

I've had it like this for years without a problem. The only time I have burned a cable was a few years back, but that happened when I tried to route the cable a different way with zip ties and such. Went back to the between the starter and block path when I replaced it.

---