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the next worst part of an ebody is the door bar goes right between the door handle and window crank

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With a good plan and a string line you can drop the side bar to the floor pan early to clear those items,but you must tie it to the piller bar with a tube angled upward.If your using a swing out bar you can bend a radius in the down bar at the front to clear them also.

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Thanks for all the responses. I did the search for the 25.5. I seen all I needed to see. I'm not going to do that to my car. I guess if I want to go faster I will have to build a 2nd car. I was hoping the NHRA would lower the roll cage requirement since many street cars today are runing faster than 9.99. It's safer to run these cars at the track than it is to run them on the street.
Back in the day you needed a roll bar at 11.99 then they changed it to 11.49 et. It's safer to run a car at 140 mph with a 5 point harness and roll bar than these guys running 120+ with a factory lap belt and no bar.

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here is mine, probably not as strong as a straight bar.

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Tree is that a glass dash/plastic?It looks to be aftermarket.

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VFN if my memory is right

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Thax

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VFN if my memory is right

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Thax

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VFN if my memory is right

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Thax

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Yes VFN make a fiberglass dash. I contemplated swapping out the one on my V-code Cuda and doing the bars right...I am still undecided and still running just mid 10's....If I were to go with a FG dash, it gives you way more flexibility for putting gauges in there...

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Thats what i'm thinking it gives me a chance to put gauges in the dash and clean it up a bit.....

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I think my biggest issue beyond effecting the ability to use he car on the street is. What if you have an electrical problem and have to remove the dash to get to it?

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I think my biggest issue beyond effecting the ability to use he car on the street is. What if you have an electrical problem and have to remove the dash to get to it?

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You remove the seats and crawl under it....

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Do you have a lower picture of window crank and door handle and does the side bar lay on your shoulder-arm tight?

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Also in response to above post, leave the VIN on dash, it drives the resto guys crazy to see an original car being raced. LOL

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You should see the VIN checkers around here! They cannot believe I bring it out and beat the tar out of it with rubber all over the quarter panels and such....

If I could do my cage like yours, I would be good. I like you kept the stock dasy and inner door panels...Been looking at going faster and being that my current street Hemi ran 10.84 on its first pass this year, it won't take much more to go sub 10.0...if I were to change it up a little. Would love to build a 572 all aluminum Predator headed engine with three two barrel split Dominators to look like a six pack or just a bigger Hemi....

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Some really good info in this thread. Got a pic of the blue car with the dash pad installed where I can see if it was cut or not?

I have been wondering how to finish the cage in my car. Its a V-code N96 4 speed, originally with only a little over 14k miles on it...Being that E-body's go for a good price, you never know when the money train is going to come to town and want to buy it, so if I ever finish the cage in mine, I want to do it right...Been thinking about the VFN route so I could do the cage right and put a Racepak dash in it...Don't know. Do you leave the VIN on the old dash?

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My roll bar must be wider because when I try to fit the side bar it hits the arm rest and door handle. What is your over all width of hoop at the sidebar? I would prefer not to move the bottom attachment more into the floor pan.Thanks

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Also in response to above post, leave the VIN on dash, it drives the resto guys crazy to see an original car being raced. LOL

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You should see the VIN checkers around here! They cannot believe I bring it out and beat the tar out of it with rubber all over the quarter panels and such....

I race a 71 Hemi Cuda. The car looks all original from the outside except for the wheels and tires.
They made 107 hemi Cuda hardtops. I seen these cars for sale over the years for $750,000 to the highest price. A car that looked just like mine on Ebay about a month ago with a buy it now price of $1,999,000.
I have at least one person each time I'm at the track checking out my car and then they ask me " Is that a real hemi cuda?" Some times I just say no but other times if the guys a little cocky I will say " do you think its a figment of your imagination? It's sitting right here in front of you. Then I explain that its real but its not an original car.
When I first built the car I had many people tell me I am crazy to race it because it is to beautiful to race. I told them if I wasn't going to race it I might as well sell it because I enjoy racing and that is why I am building the car. To enjoy it. Polishing a car an sitting in the hot sun talking about how fast a car might run if I actually ran it doesn't do it for me like it does some guys. I actually have to use my cars and see what they can do to enjoy them. If I had an original car I would be racing it. Or if it was worth crazy money like a 71 Hemi Cuda I would sell it and build a clone and put the rest of the cash in the bank.

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Also in response to above post, leave the VIN on dash, it drives the resto guys crazy to see an original car being raced. LOL

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You should see the VIN checkers around here! They cannot believe I bring it out and beat the tar out of it with rubber all over the quarter panels and such....

I race a 71 Hemi Cuda. The car looks all original from the outside except for the wheels and tires.
They made 107 hemi Cuda hardtops. I seen these cars for sale over the years for $750,000 to the highest price. A car that looked just like mine on Ebay about a month ago with a buy it now price of $1,999,000.
I have at least one person each time I'm at the track checking out my car and then they ask me " Is that a real hemi cuda?" Some times I just say no but other times if the guys a little cocky I will say " do you think its a figment of your imagination? It's sitting right here in front of you. Then I explain that its real but its not an original car.
When I first built the car I had many people tell me I am crazy to race it because it is to beautiful to race. I told them if I wasn't going to race it I might as well sell it because I enjoy racing and that is why I am building the car. To enjoy it. Polishing a car an sitting in the hot sun talking about how fast a car might run if I actually ran it doesn't do it for me like it does some guys. I actually have to use my cars and see what they can do to enjoy them. If I had an original car I would be racing it. Or if it was worth crazy money like a 71 Hemi Cuda I would sell it and build a clone and put the rest of the cash in the bank.

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Last year when I pulled the car out of storage of 7 years, it wasn't out 24hrs and I was hasseled...I just keep envisioning the next iteration of my Hemi dipping into the 9's, and my car needing more cage...

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I finally found my problem. I needed rear adjustable shocks. I ran two passes. A 9.91 ET and a 9.88 Et. I didn't even get to sort things out and they told me to slow it down or go home. I went home. I think they didn't like the MPH. I went 140 and 141 MPH. I'm sure in a few more passes I could have gone 9.60's or even 50's.
I don't think I want to put a cage in the car but then that opens up a new horizon. I built the motor for a 450 hp shot of NOS but I never installed the nitrous because the car met my goals on just motor. With a cage I could see if I could get into the 8's

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you went 141mph with out a cage? if you did im thinking you are

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Look closely & you can see where we kicked the door bars around the door panel pad.

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I not saying you can go step in front of a train and it will derail and miss you. But if you wreck at a high rate of speed the difference between a cage and a 6 point bar won't save your life.

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you are very wrong on that , but ok

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I have seen people wreck on the street that weren't even wearing seatbelts and the car is destroyed. You would swear no one could have survived and they walk away without a scratch. Sometimes even ejected from the vehicle. Then you see a wreck that doesn't look bad at all and the driver was killed. Dale Earnhardts fatal crash comes to mind.
Some might call it luck but I believe it is something else. Why are some people so lucky?

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why do some people win the lotto? I chose to help my odds if possible. but hey it's your head, as long as you don't take some innocent person with you.

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I have seen people wreck on the street that weren't even wearing seatbelts and the car is destroyed. You would swear no one could have survived and they walk away without a scratch. Sometimes even ejected from the vehicle. Then you see a wreck that doesn't look bad at all and the driver was killed. Dale Earnhardts fatal crash comes to mind.
Some might call it luck but I believe it is something else. Why are some people so lucky?

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I think my biggest issue beyond effecting the ability to use he car on the street is. What if you have an electrical problem and have to remove the dash to get to it?

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You remove the seats and crawl under it....

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I agree. All of my cars I have had & I have never removed the entire dash for any electical reasons. I see my car has been mentioned in a few posts to reference for pics. Here is one of mine without the dash in & before it was painted. NHRA tech guys actually prefered my "A" Pillar bars because the knee bar is tied right into the kick panel of the body with 1/8" plates.

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6pkrtse u have any closeup pic of how you welded the dashbar to the kick panel?And also when u install the dash did u cut a notch were u were able to slide it in or just drill a hole and weld it thur the glove box/gauge cluster area?Thax.

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How it looks on the inside.
And from the outside, with my buddy driving btw who is a big bloke.

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Tig....were do uall purchase that carpet?Is that the factory stuff or some light weight carpet?Thax.

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Tig....were do uall purchase that carpet?Is that the factory stuff or some light weight carpet?Thax.

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Pretty sure the carpet came from Ebay

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I think my biggest issue beyond effecting the ability to use he car on the street is. What if you have an electrical problem and have to remove the dash to get to it?

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You remove the seats and crawl under it....

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I agree. All of my cars I have had & I have never removed the entire dash for any electical reasons. I see my car has been mentioned in a few posts to reference for pics. Here is one of mine without the dash in & before it was painted. NHRA tech guys actually prefered my "A" Pillar bars because the knee bar is tied right into the kick panel of the body with 1/8" plates.

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6pkrtse u have any closeup pic of how you welded the dashbar to the kick panel?And also when u install the dash did u cut a notch were u were able to slide it in or just drill a hole and weld it thur the glove box/gauge cluster area?Thax.

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