Introduction and Looking For Some Advice
#1521124
10/21/13 07:55 PM
10/21/13 07:55 PM
|
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 15 New Mexico USA
jingro
OP
member
|
OP
member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 15
New Mexico USA
|
Hello, I have a 1938 Plymouth truck that I recently won at my church's annual car show. It's mostly original and in pretty good shape. Right now I enjoy driving it as it is, but would could see doing somethings to it, but I'm not sure what.
It would be much more enjoyable without all the shifting. Is there an auto transmission that would bolt to the flat head six, without a whole lot of work, or expence?
Any suggestions on what I should do with the truck? I would want something that I could drive, enjoy and not sink a ton of cash into.
I've built a few cars, and have experience and ability to do the work myself. Thanks
Last edited by jingro; 10/27/13 02:12 AM.
|
|
|
Re: Engine
[Re: jingro]
#1521132
10/22/13 12:54 PM
10/22/13 12:54 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,376
dogdays
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,376
|
I believe the better features of the modern aluminum case Torqueflite outweigh the lower cost of the bolt-on cast iron Torqueflite. I also believe cast iron Torqueflites were all pushbutton shift, adding another layer of complexity to the swap.
R.
Last edited by dogdays; 10/22/13 01:11 PM.
|
|
|
Re: Engine
[Re: jingro]
#1521133
10/22/13 10:31 PM
10/22/13 10:31 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,651 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,651
Freeport IL USA
|
Quote:
What about wheels and tires to give it a hot rod look? Or leave it like it is.
Thanks
I'm not sure what bolt pattern they used on that era truck, but the original wheels are held in place with wheel bolts instead of studs and nuts like the modern stuff. Also, one side has left hand threads (loosens backwards), the left hand thread bots have a "L" on the top of the bolt. The other side will have right hand threaded bolts. Don't mix them up. Any modern wheels with the same bolt pattern can be used as long as the lug bolts will hold them on. There is also a mounting stud that is attached to each of the wheel mounting surfaces. That stud is intended to hold the wheel while you screw in the lug bolts. That stud will have to be removed (grind it off) to mount modern wheels on your truck. Once that stud is removed, you have to hold the wheel up to start the lug bolts. At one time there were "kits" available to replace the lug bolts with studs and nuts, but I'm not sure those are available any more. I suppose to could source out the screw in studs and buy the nuts separately. Replacing the lug bolts with studs and nuts would open up the wheel choice even more.
Another thought is if your upgrading to a modern rear axle, one might consider a disc brake conversion as well. That would solve the lug bolt issue all together. I believe www.rustyhope.com has a disc brake conversion available for your truck. Modern brakes and a modern transmission would be great upgrades that would increase the driving fun. I love these old cars and trucks, but i like the modern stopping ability as well. Gene
|
|
|
Re: Engine
[Re: jingro]
#1521136
10/24/13 02:11 AM
10/24/13 02:11 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,651 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,651
Freeport IL USA
|
Quote:
After having to do a couple of hard stop for traffic, I like the idea of modern brakes.
What about converting it to a 12 volt system? Is there more to it than Alt, bulbs and a battery? The truck has been re-wired front to back.
Thanks for all the input!!!
Wiring depends on how whoever replaced it did the job. Originally, that was probably a 6 volt positive ground. If all the wiring was done as a positive ground, some things might not work when you go to 12 neg ground. You will also have to do something with any electrical components like a radio or electric wipers if your truck has either of those. You will also have to have a voltage reducer for the fuel gauge. Your probably going to swap the starter for a newer one to match the trans, so that shouldn't be an issue. Be sure to list that starter for sale online, they are getting hard to find in good shape.
I can tell you I have swapped in a 12 volt negative ground battery into a 6 positive ground system before and other the frying the lights in short order, the cars drove good. Not saying its right, only I've done it before. Gene
|
|
|
Re: Engine
[Re: dogdays]
#1521138
10/24/13 07:28 PM
10/24/13 07:28 PM
|
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889 up yours
Supercuda
About to go away
|
About to go away
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
|
Many years ago I had a 38 Plymouth. Was thinking to convert to 12v setup, to prep for an eventual V* conversion. had a long talk with a local starter shop of good repute and was told that it that the starter would run fine with 12v as long as the engine was easy to start, as in it didn't take a bunch of cranking to start it. But if I want to they could rebuild the starter and upgrade it to 12v operation when/if it failed.
I had an old timer sit down with me and we discussed the other aspects of swapping over to 12v operation and his comments on the gauges pretty much mirrors dogdays statements. Since it had no wipers that wasn't an issue either.
They say there are no such thing as a stupid question. They say there is always the exception that proves the rule. Don't be the exception.
|
|
|
|
|