Re: 11 second 1970 cuda with good street manners?
[Re: derekeh]
#1508853
09/28/13 10:07 AM
09/28/13 10:07 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,801 Benton, IL.
DaveRS23
Master of nothing...
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Master of nothing...
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,801
Benton, IL.
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40+ years of innovation and design may be a bit difficult to incorporate into the old platform. Some improvements will be rather easy, while others may be very, very difficult. And to pull it all together, well.............
If you pull the trigger, keep us posted. Good luck.
Master, again and still
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Re: 11 second 1970 cuda with good street manners?
[Re: bigblock340power]
#1508858
09/28/13 12:47 PM
09/28/13 12:47 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,562 Brookeville, Md
Mr.Yuck
Not enough dumb comments...yet
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Not enough dumb comments...yet
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,562
Brookeville, Md
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Quote:
A small block would really be easier in the corners, and lighter in the front. Stroke it! I'm running a 340 stroked to a 416 (also 360's are easy to find (360 + 4.0 crank + 30 over bore = 408 cubes)). She'll run in the 11.teens all day (on pump gas!). With a four speed auto trans, and a lockup converter, that's still obtainable. You can cruse the high way easily too. I'm running a 8 3/4 rear end (never had a problem). I'm sure people out there have better suggestions for you, but keep your options open till you decide. Good luck!
for a 416 SB to run mid 11's in a heavy e-body it'd need a TON of work. I do agree that an 8.75 is fine for mid 11's in an A,B or E body. Mines holding up fine. If you are worried about breaking it just back brace it. That said nothing wrong w/ a 9" either.
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Re: 11 second 1970 cuda with good street manners?
[Re: Mr.Yuck]
#1508859
09/28/13 02:55 PM
09/28/13 02:55 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,165 Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,165
Mass
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Quote:
Quote:
A small block would really be easier in the corners, and lighter in the front. Stroke it! I'm running a 340 stroked to a 416 (also 360's are easy to find (360 + 4.0 crank + 30 over bore = 408 cubes)). She'll run in the 11.teens all day (on pump gas!). With a four speed auto trans, and a lockup converter, that's still obtainable. You can cruse the high way easily too. I'm running a 8 3/4 rear end (never had a problem). I'm sure people out there have better suggestions for you, but keep your options open till you decide. Good luck!
for a 416 SB to run mid 11's in a heavy e-body it'd need a TON of work. I do agree that an 8.75 is fine for mid 11's in an A,B or E body. Mines holding up fine. If you are worried about breaking it just back brace it. That said nothing wrong w/ a 9" either.
If he has the coin...a smallblock Mopar is going to take some serious coin to get it up to the 700 HP ball park ($15-$20K), then reliability/longevity become factors, the stock small block Mopar comes in at 550 lbs, a 383/400 at 620 lbs, and an RB at 670 lbs, not even a concideration...an all aluminum 6.1 Mopar Gen III comes in at 490 lbs and has a base 535HP, an lS1 (427) all aluminum comes in at 450 lbs, or an iron block LS1 at 525 lbs, the all aluminum LS1 is reliable up to 900 HP max, and the iron block LS1 up to 1500 HP reliable...if you look at an engine, as just that, an engine...then the LS1 is the logical choice HP/cost wise like it or not.. IMHO the LS1 mated to a Viper spec'd T56 6spd, and a Ford 9" or Cobra IRS would yield a nicely rounded package for street/strip/course, think of them merely as mechanical components, chosen for performance/cost rather than silly brand loyalty based components which will take more $$$$ to be on an equal basis performance wise.
Crate motors
Gen III Mopar Hemi 6.1 All aluminum 490 lbs 535 HP base $14K 565 HP base $15K 615 HP base $18K
LS1 all aluminum Gen III 450 lbs Iron block/aluminum head 525 lbs 427 cubes 540 HP base $9K 670HP base $10.5K 690 HP base $12K 900HP base $15K
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Re: 11 second 1970 cuda with good street manners?
[Re: DAYCLONA]
#1508860
09/28/13 07:06 PM
09/28/13 07:06 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,562 Brookeville, Md
Mr.Yuck
Not enough dumb comments...yet
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Not enough dumb comments...yet
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,562
Brookeville, Md
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
A small block would really be easier in the corners, and lighter in the front. Stroke it! I'm running a 340 stroked to a 416 (also 360's are easy to find (360 + 4.0 crank + 30 over bore = 408 cubes)). She'll run in the 11.teens all day (on pump gas!). With a four speed auto trans, and a lockup converter, that's still obtainable. You can cruse the high way easily too. I'm running a 8 3/4 rear end (never had a problem). I'm sure people out there have better suggestions for you, but keep your options open till you decide. Good luck!
for a 416 SB to run mid 11's in a heavy e-body it'd need a TON of work. I do agree that an 8.75 is fine for mid 11's in an A,B or E body. Mines holding up fine. If you are worried about breaking it just back brace it. That said nothing wrong w/ a 9" either.
If he has the coin...a smallblock Mopar is going to take some serious coin to get it up to the 700 HP ball park ($15-$20K), then reliability/longevity become factors, the stock small block Mopar comes in at 550 lbs, a 383/400 at 620 lbs, and an RB at 670 lbs, not even a concideration...an all aluminum 6.1 Mopar Gen III comes in at 490 lbs and has a base 535HP, an lS1 (427) all aluminum comes in at 450 lbs, or an iron block LS1 at 525 lbs, the all aluminum LS1 is reliable up to 900 HP max, and the iron block LS1 up to 1500 HP reliable...if you look at an engine, as just that, an engine...then the LS1 is the logical choice HP/cost wise like it or not.. IMHO the LS1 mated to a Viper spec'd T56 6spd, and a Ford 9" or Cobra IRS would yield a nicely rounded package for street/strip/course, think of them merely as mechanical components, chosen for performance/cost rather than silly brand loyalty based components which will take more $$$$ to be on an equal basis performance wise.
Crate motors
Gen III Mopar Hemi 6.1 All aluminum 490 lbs 535 HP base $14K 565 HP base $15K 615 HP base $18K
LS1 all aluminum Gen III 450 lbs Iron block/aluminum head 525 lbs 427 cubes 540 HP base $9K 670HP base $10.5K 690 HP base $12K 900HP base $15K
LS1? really why not sell the cuda and get a Camaro then? He can build a 600hp 440 for way under 9k and he won't have to buy any aftermarket crap or be embarrassed to open the hood.
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Re: 11 second 1970 cuda with good street manners?
[Re: derekeh]
#1508863
09/28/13 08:35 PM
09/28/13 08:35 PM
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399 Aurora, Colorado
451Mopar
master
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master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
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I think if you want EFI, A/C, and overdrive, then look at the 6.1L Gen3. I just got a 6.1 with the 5-speed auto with all the accessories and stock computer for $4,000. Getting the computer reflashed and engine wiring harness does not seem to be a problem, just more $$$. The NAG1 5-speed seems to be harder to get hooked up? A manual trans might be easier and cheaper than the auto trans? The 6.4 Gen3 seems to still be very expensive, and the 5.7s are avaliable cheap, but don't have the upgraded components of the 6.1.
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Re: 11 second 1970 cuda with good street manners?
[Re: 451Mopar]
#1508864
09/29/13 09:56 AM
09/29/13 09:56 AM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 480 Kentucky, USA
derekeh
OP
mopar
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OP
mopar
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 480
Kentucky, USA
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Im mostly mopar but I do like all brands to an extent. However I wouldnt even dream of swapping a gm or ford engine into my cuda. I do like the lighter weight of the 6.1 and it should definitely help in handling. However, while I definitely want better handling than stock, Im not looking to get the best handling possible out of my cuda. I do plan on swapping out my k-frame to help with weight, handling, and more room. Out of the 3 engine choices (big block, small block and gen 3 hemi), which would be the most reliable and economical in making this car capable of, lets say.... low 11s. Mind you I want efi, a/c, and possibly a supercharger (if needed for my goal). The reason I want economy is I drive my cars a lot. Im just not into a trailer queen or street rod that is barely streetable. The cuda will be a weekend ride and occassionally a road trip ride. Maybe this will help clarify what Im wanting lol.
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Re: 11 second 1970 cuda with good street manners?
[Re: derekeh]
#1508867
09/29/13 02:11 PM
09/29/13 02:11 PM
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 18,880 -
RSNOMO
Moparts Torchbearer
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Moparts Torchbearer
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 18,880
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Quote:
However I wouldnt even dream of swapping a gm or ford engine into my cuda.
Thank-God...
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Re: 11 second 1970 cuda with good street manners?
[Re: derekeh]
#1508870
11/02/13 10:54 AM
11/02/13 10:54 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,562 Brookeville, Md
Mr.Yuck
Not enough dumb comments...yet
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Not enough dumb comments...yet
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,562
Brookeville, Md
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Quote:
So what kind of power can these engines handle? That may be a deciding factor as well. Big block, small block and the 6.1 hemi. ?
As much as your wallet can afford. Really an 11 second street car isn't that hard and it doesn't have to be expensive. I wouldn't go dumping a ton of money into a Gen III hemi and EFI just to run 11's.
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Re: 11 second 1970 cuda with good street manners?
[Re: Mr.Yuck]
#1508871
11/02/13 12:26 PM
11/02/13 12:26 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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I find it unfathomable that somebody could type with a straight face about putting GM and Ford components into a 70 Cuda. There might be a slight money advantage to doing so, but if you are that tight with the build of your car, you either need to get into a GM or 5.0 mustang, lower your expectations of fuel economy or get ready to be completely emabrassed to show your car to anybody with taste.
I think brand loyalty to vintage mopar muscle cars is what this forum is all about and a few of you guys need to remember that before making ludacris suggestions.
Anyways, I would suggest a gen 3 hemi swap with a kenne bell blower and tremec 6 speed behind it with a Dana 60 behind that. Is it cheap? No. Would it be way cooler than GM and Ford crap on your vintage mopar? Please....... of course.
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