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Re: 383 Cam/Dist. Timing Issues [Re: tobnHisglory] #1491786
08/29/13 05:43 PM
08/29/13 05:43 PM
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 180
3rd rock
K
kloyiod Offline OP
kloyiod  Offline OP
K

Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 180
3rd rock
To both of you I fully agree. I know the vac pod should be in the 12-2 o'clock position which is were I started. When I get this back together I will look into making absolute sure that the rotor is pointing to the #1 tower. I just hope I get it this time ! It does make sense that you could stuff the drive gear anyway you want as long as all the others are in order. I'll keep ya updated as to what happens. All are welcome to continue this discussion in the meantime. Mr. P body, tell Sherman I say hi, LOL.

Re: 383 Cam/Dist. Timing Issues [Re: kloyiod] #1491787
08/29/13 05:53 PM
08/29/13 05:53 PM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY Offline
Master
MR_P_BODY  Offline
Master

Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
Quote:

To both of you I fully agree. I know the vac pod should be in the 12-2 o'clock position which is were I started. When I get this back together I will look into making absolute sure that the rotor is pointing to the #1 tower. I just hope I get it this time ! It does make sense that you could stuff the drive gear anyway you want as long as all the others are in order. I'll keep ya updated as to what happens. All are welcome to continue this discussion in the meantime. Mr. P body, tell Sherman I say hi, LOL.




I will.... just happens that my driver goes by Sherman
on here(well not really but his avitar is a pic
of Sherman and Mr Peabody)...LOL.. good luck with
your issue

Re: 383 Cam/Dist. Timing Issues [Re: kloyiod] #1491788
08/29/13 06:28 PM
08/29/13 06:28 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,530
Nunya CA
CR8CRSHR Offline
master
CR8CRSHR  Offline
master

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,530
Nunya CA
Time for me to jump in here. I have been helping out a lot with this build so I can offer some more into the discussion. The lifter busing point is understood but I don't think there will be an issue with the fire up of this motor over the first. As stated earlier, the first motor has approximately 10 hours of run time. And, it is running a Hughes Cam and Lifters as opposed to the other makes available. Once they are broken in Hughes has told me that on a swap such as this, there isn't an issue with firing it up in a normal fashion. It was recommended though to at least keep it at about 2200 on the rpms and to bump the accelerator a few times to insure lifter rotation. Break in oil is Brad Penn. It was merely a swap out of the necessary parts from motor #1 to motor #2 excluding the bottom end of motor #1.

Now where the problem seems to lie is that in the first try, it backfired through the carb. We both checked and concurred that we had the motor it @ TDC but we were 180 out. So we adjusted for that and we had the same backfire through the carb. As stated above, the cam distributor gear drive upon inspection was not @ parallel to center line of the block as per the FSM and EBoogher's latest article in Mopar Action. BB's are parallel center and SB's are from 8-2 o'clock with the rotor pointing towards the first intake manifold bolt on the #1 piston side. Anyway...the key way for the distributor shaft will only point to either the 4-10 position or the 2-8 one. Not at parallel center as is correct for the BB. The timing sprockets are lined up dot to dot with the cam sprocket key way set @ 4R. Cam is ground @ 3A so there shouldn't be a really big deal there. Again dots are dot to dot. So the head scratching has been abundant here with this motor. On the old one everything lined up as it was supposed to but now in the motor we have the above described issue.

From what most of you have been saying, if I understand you all correctly, is that even though we are not @ parallel center on this BB, we are OK as long as we have the motor correctly @ TDC and the #1 plug wire tower and the rotor pointing correctly towards #1. We then should be OK in the theory of it. As long as everything is lined up correctly in relation to #1 and we are @ TDC then it really doesn't matter where the distributor gear is placed or if it is off of parallel center line. Is this a correct understanding? I have been kind of analyzing this on my own and have been wondering if this is all that needs to be done to get this back up and running. Again in theory it should work fine.

Hope this adds some more clarification to what we have been experiencing for you all to help us out. It is hard to explain in words without some visual referencing to help as well. This is not a fancy or hot rod build but rather a pretty tame one at that. Thanks in advance and I hope I was able to shed some more light on this issue. There is a ton of knowledge here as we all know...

Last edited by CR8CRSHR; 08/29/13 08:09 PM.
Re: 383 Cam/Dist. Timing Issues [Re: tobnHisglory] #1491789
08/29/13 07:58 PM
08/29/13 07:58 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,530
Nunya CA
CR8CRSHR Offline
master
CR8CRSHR  Offline
master

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,530
Nunya CA
Quote:

hmmm... just to go back to basics...

A distributor drive gear has 18 teeth, so moving one tooth at a time should rotate the distributor slot 20*. It doesn't make sense to me why you can only get it to line up at 8/2 or 4/10. Those are 90* apart, not 20.




Right you are. It should read as:

4-10 or 2-8 if you are looking straight down into the distributor opening. I can see where that would be confusing. Good catch.

Mr. PBody that is one heck of a "WAY BACK MACHINE" ya got there

Last edited by CR8CRSHR; 08/29/13 08:03 PM.
Re: 383 Cam/Dist. Timing Issues [Re: CR8CRSHR] #1491790
08/29/13 08:35 PM
08/29/13 08:35 PM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY Offline
Master
MR_P_BODY  Offline
Master

Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
Quote:

Time for me to jump in here. I have been helping out a lot with this build so I can offer some more into the discussion. The lifter busing point is understood but I don't think there will be an issue with the fire up of this motor over the first. As stated earlier, the first motor has approximately 10 hours of run time. And, it is running a Hughes Cam and Lifters as opposed to the other makes available. Once they are broken in Hughes has told me that on a swap such as this, there isn't an issue with firing it up in a normal fashion. It was recommended though to at least keep it at about 2200 on the rpms and to bump the accelerator a few times to insure lifter rotation. Break in oil is Brad Penn. It was merely a swap out of the necessary parts from motor #1 to motor #2 excluding the bottom end of motor #1.

Now where the problem seems to lie is that in the first try, it backfired through the carb. We both checked and concurred that we had the motor it @ TDC but we were 180 out. So we adjusted for that and we had the same backfire through the carb. As stated above, the cam distributor gear drive upon inspection was not @ parallel to center line of the block as per the FSM and EBoogher's latest article in Mopar Action. BB's are parallel center and SB's are from 8-2 o'clock with the rotor pointing towards the first intake manifold bolt on the #1 piston side. Anyway...the key way for the distributor shaft will only point to either the 4-10 position or the 2-8 one. Not at parallel center as is correct for the BB. The timing sprockets are lined up dot to dot with the cam sprocket key way set @ 4R. Cam is ground @ 3A so there shouldn't be a really big deal there. Again dots are dot to dot. So the head scratching has been abundant here with this motor. On the old one everything lined up as it was supposed to but now in the motor we have the above described issue.

From what most of you have been saying, if I understand you all correctly, is that even though we are not @ parallel center on this BB, we are OK as long as we have the motor correctly @ TDC and the #1 plug wire tower and the rotor pointing correctly towards #1. We then should be OK in the theory of it. As long as everything is lined up correctly in relation to #1 and we are @ TDC then it really doesn't matter where the distributor gear is placed or if it is off of parallel center line. Is this a correct understanding? I have been kind of analyzing this on my own and have been wondering if this is all that needs to be done to get this back up and running. Again in theory it should work fine.

Hope this adds some more clarification to what we have been experiencing for you all to help us out. It is hard to explain in words without some visual referencing to help as well. This is not a fancy or hot rod build but rather a pretty tame one at that. Thanks in advance and I hope I was able to shed some more light on this issue. There is a ton of knowledge here as we all know...




As of now you are HOPING that the timing gears are
correct... sounds like they are not... the dot to dot
isnt a good way to install a cam... I've seem way too
many be off... I had one that was 27* off based on the
dots... I was thinking you guys degreed it but now
I know you played the dots.... I will go back to my
first idea (based on your info AND that your dist
doesnt line up like stock)... I think your cam is off

Re: 383 Cam/Dist. Timing Issues [Re: MR_P_BODY] #1491791
08/29/13 09:00 PM
08/29/13 09:00 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,530
Nunya CA
CR8CRSHR Offline
master
CR8CRSHR  Offline
master

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,530
Nunya CA
Quote:

Quote:

Time for me to jump in here. I have been helping out a lot with this build so I can offer some more into the discussion. The lifter busing point is understood but I don't think there will be an issue with the fire up of this motor over the first. As stated earlier, the first motor has approximately 10 hours of run time. And, it is running a Hughes Cam and Lifters as opposed to the other makes available. Once they are broken in Hughes has told me that on a swap such as this, there isn't an issue with firing it up in a normal fashion. It was recommended though to at least keep it at about 2200 on the rpms and to bump the accelerator a few times to insure lifter rotation. Break in oil is Brad Penn. It was merely a swap out of the necessary parts from motor #1 to motor #2 excluding the bottom end of motor #1.

Now where the problem seems to lie is that in the first try, it backfired through the carb. We both checked and concurred that we had the motor it @ TDC but we were 180 out. So we adjusted for that and we had the same backfire through the carb. As stated above, the cam distributor gear drive upon inspection was not @ parallel to center line of the block as per the FSM and EBoogher's latest article in Mopar Action. BB's are parallel center and SB's are from 8-2 o'clock with the rotor pointing towards the first intake manifold bolt on the #1 piston side. Anyway...the key way for the distributor shaft will only point to either the 4-10 position or the 2-8 one. Not at parallel center as is correct for the BB. The timing sprockets are lined up dot to dot with the cam sprocket key way set @ 4R. Cam is ground @ 3A so there shouldn't be a really big deal there. Again dots are dot to dot. So the head scratching has been abundant here with this motor. On the old one everything lined up as it was supposed to but now in the motor we have the above described issue.

From what most of you have been saying, if I understand you all correctly, is that even though we are not @ parallel center on this BB, we are OK as long as we have the motor correctly @ TDC and the #1 plug wire tower and the rotor pointing correctly towards #1. We then should be OK in the theory of it. As long as everything is lined up correctly in relation to #1 and we are @ TDC then it really doesn't matter where the distributor gear is placed or if it is off of parallel center line. Is this a correct understanding? I have been kind of analyzing this on my own and have been wondering if this is all that needs to be done to get this back up and running. Again in theory it should work fine.

Hope this adds some more clarification to what we have been experiencing for you all to help us out. It is hard to explain in words without some visual referencing to help as well. This is not a fancy or hot rod build but rather a pretty tame one at that. Thanks in advance and I hope I was able to shed some more light on this issue. There is a ton of knowledge here as we all know...




As of now you are HOPING that the timing gears are
correct... sounds like they are not... the dot to dot
isnt a good way to install a cam... I've seem way too
many be off... I had one that was 27* off based on the
dots... I was thinking you guys degreed it but now
I know you played the dots.... I will go back to my
first idea (based on your info AND that your dist
doesnt line up like stock)... I think your cam is off





OK...Then how can the cam be off from one block to the next? Yes we did line it up on the 2nd motor dot to dot as it was degree'd on the first motor and all we are doing is moving components from one block to the next. So we matched "apples to apples" so to speak. I know logic is not really a player when it comes to MOPARS...MA defied all kinds of Logic...but we have really not changed any thing here. Just doesn't make any sense at all....

Re: 383 Cam/Dist. Timing Issues [Re: CR8CRSHR] #1491792
08/30/13 12:31 AM
08/30/13 12:31 AM
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,780
Alabama
Mopar-Al Offline
master
Mopar-Al  Offline
master

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,780
Alabama
did you do a compression check? Maybe you bent a valve screwing around with swapping everything over. Obviously if it was all correct, it would fire and run. Plain and simple. Maybe even someone dropped something down the carb throat by accident. This post could be harped on for a bunch of pages, but untill you have checked it all, you won't know. Cracked cap arcing, bad coil, wires on backwards to the coil. Dont even know what distrib you have for a reluctor. It could be water in the fuel far as we know. Something went a rye in your swap. Maybe even your distrib drive gear spun or is spinning. Don't go by the tdc on the balancer , try a positive stop. YOU ARE MISSING A SIMPLE SOLUTION. And it's screwing up your world and all the help you are recieving is pointless untill you do the standard checks. If a ballast resistor is bad it can pop as well. check check check

Re: 383 Cam/Dist. Timing Issues [Re: CR8CRSHR] #1491793
08/30/13 12:41 PM
08/30/13 12:41 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,058
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR Offline
I Win
JohnRR  Offline
I Win

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,058
U.S.S.A.
Quote:



From what most of you have been saying, if I understand you all correctly, is that even though we are not @ parallel center on this BB, we are OK as long as we have the motor correctly @ TDC and the #1 plug wire tower and the rotor pointing correctly towards #1. We then should be OK in the theory of it. As long as everything is lined up correctly in relation to #1 and we are @ TDC then it really doesn't matter where the distributor gear is placed or if it is off of parallel center line. Is this a correct understanding? I have been kind of analyzing this on my own and have been wondering if this is all that needs to be done to get this back up and running. Again in theory it should work fine.






Yes this is correct in your understanding .

I'll ask the dumb question , is it not dropping in parallel because you move it a tooth and the drive will not drop in so you go another tooth and it does drop in ? If this is the case it's because ofthe oil pump hex drive not lining up with the oil pump , if you have a priming rod you can move the oil pump a little so the drive drops in ...

The distributor not being in line with what the FSM says is not what is causing the engine to not start as long as the rotor is pointing at the number one tower and you have the wires in the correct order and firing rotation.

Have you checked for spark ? what ignition system ?

Re: 383 Cam/Dist. Timing Issues [Re: MR_P_BODY] #1491794
08/30/13 01:08 PM
08/30/13 01:08 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 684
St. Charles, MO.
S
Slingshot383 Offline
mopar
Slingshot383  Offline
mopar
S

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 684
St. Charles, MO.
There is one more thing to consider when you can't get the rotor bug to line up correctly with the engine at TDC #1, and that is rotor phasing. Cars with crank triggers have to be very careful in this respect.


1994 Undercover Chassis 125" altered stack injected big block, soon blown and injected Member of The Torque and Recoil Club
Re: 383 Cam/Dist. Timing Issues [Re: Slingshot383] #1491795
09/02/13 01:11 AM
09/02/13 01:11 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 198
Chester, VA
tobnHisglory Offline
member
tobnHisglory  Offline
member

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 198
Chester, VA
Any progress so far? One other thought. Is this a multi key way timing set? If so, maybe the crank key is in a different slot on the crank gear. You would still be dot to dot but your crank would be in a different position causing you to be off by several degrees on your cam timing. Good luck!


-Reggie
tobnHisglory2000@aol.com
Former Mopars: 73 Charger - 440/727, 68 D200 Camper Special 383/727, 67 Satellite, 71 Superbee, 73 RoadRunner,2009 Ram Quad Cab Hemi 4x4
Current Mopars: 2005 Ram Quad Cab Hemi 4x4, 73 Cuda FE5 318 manual
Re: 383 Cam/Dist. Timing Issues [Re: tobnHisglory] #1491796
09/02/13 01:06 PM
09/02/13 01:06 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,530
Nunya CA
CR8CRSHR Offline
master
CR8CRSHR  Offline
master

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,530
Nunya CA
No progress as of yet. It is all back together but still will not fire up. It has air, fuel, and combustion/fire and everything is correct. Going to trouble shoot the electrical side today and try it one last time. If it doesn't work then it will be put up for sale and be done with. The money outlay is just too much so look for it on this and other for sale sites. Thanks to those that have tried to assist but I am afraid it is a done deal and time to get out of this money pit and on to other things. After all it is just a freakin' car and ain't nothin' but a thing...

Re: 383 Cam/Dist. Timing Issues [Re: CR8CRSHR] #1491797
09/02/13 03:19 PM
09/02/13 03:19 PM
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 417
reynoldsburg,ohio
poppaj Offline
mopar
poppaj  Offline
mopar

Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 417
reynoldsburg,ohio
Are you sure that you haven't adjusted valves and they were not pumped up yet then when you started cranking the motor they pumped up and now you have valves hanging open?


AA/NSS 65'Coronet "Whompin Wedge"
Pop & Son Performance 557" B-1 power
John Holt Chassis
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