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Hydraulic Clutch setup #1487258
08/20/13 08:35 AM
08/20/13 08:35 AM
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 768
Maryville tn
67coronetman Offline OP
super stock
67coronetman  Offline OP
super stock

Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 768
Maryville tn
The Problem I am having is a very very hard clutch to push in I am using the old style 3 finger pressure plate & a clutch I got from American Powertrain which hooks like crazy. Everything worked great and over the winter I did some work on the motor & other suspension up grades & I relocated the clutch master cylinder to the engine fire wall from under the dash on a bracket. I was wondering if it could be the old style pressure plate I have and I should i be using the newer style plate and before anyone ask I did bleed the lines and its a good stream of fluid & no air at all.


Old car are me......
Re: Hydraulic Clutch setup [Re: 67coronetman] #1487259
08/20/13 03:13 PM
08/20/13 03:13 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,821
Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel Offline
Too Many Posts
John_Kunkel  Offline
Too Many Posts

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,821
Rio Linda, CA

What is the diameter of the clutch master cylinder? What is the pedal ratio? At what point in the pedal travel does the clutch engage?

I just went through the same thing, changed from a diaphragm clutch to a B&B 3-finger and the pedal pressure increased dramatically. Had to go to a smaller diameter MC and change the pedal ratio...ideal clutch pedal ratio is around 5-1.


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Re: Hydraulic Clutch setup [Re: 67coronetman] #1487260
08/20/13 09:38 PM
08/20/13 09:38 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA Offline
I Live Here
DAYCLONA  Offline
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
Quote:

The Problem I am having is a very very hard clutch to push in I am using the old style 3 finger pressure plate & a clutch I got from American Powertrain which hooks like crazy. Everything worked great and over the winter I did some work on the motor & other suspension up grades & I relocated the clutch master cylinder to the engine fire wall from under the dash on a bracket. I was wondering if it could be the old style pressure plate I have and I should i be using the newer style plate and before anyone ask I did bleed the lines and its a good stream of fluid & no air at all.







The pressure plate load shouldn't be an issue, IMO it may be the type of master your using, and with your recent relocation you may have changed the pedal geometry?, or you may have shorten the travel of the master?

I run a 3 finger Sachs Borg/Beck 2800 lb 11" pressure plate with a Sach's Kelvar disc in front of a Keisler TKO600 5 spd, I using the Keisler/Wilwood .700 bore master and an FTE hyd throw out bearing, the master is mounted directly in the firewall hole intended for the stock 4spd pedal rod to Z bar application, the pushrod to activate the master is attached to the stock pivot point where the 4spd stock rod would attach, total pedal travel is 4 inches, total travel of the master is 1.400 inches....pedal effort is non-existent

Re: Hydraulic Clutch setup [Re: DAYCLONA] #1487261
08/21/13 10:04 PM
08/21/13 10:04 PM
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 768
Maryville tn
67coronetman Offline OP
super stock
67coronetman  Offline OP
super stock

Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 768
Maryville tn
I really think its my pressure plate and here is why.! My friend did his the same way and is running a dual disc clutch & a diaphram clutch and his pedal is way easier to push than mine.


Old car are me......
Re: Hydraulic Clutch setup [Re: DAYCLONA] #1487262
08/25/13 06:56 PM
08/25/13 06:56 PM
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 768
Maryville tn
67coronetman Offline OP
super stock
67coronetman  Offline OP
super stock

Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 768
Maryville tn
I am going to check into that and thanks for the info I was using the clutch setup from Chuck's classic cars in Tn. And it worked great as long as I kept it mounted under the dash on the bracket. It also seem at times my setup some where is losing contact or pressure in the system but I have found no leaks at all and it seem to work the fork all the time I use it so I need to study it some more.








Quote:

Quote:

The Problem I am having is a very very hard clutch to push in I am using the old style 3 finger pressure plate & a clutch I got from American Powertrain which hooks like crazy. Everything worked great and over the winter I did some work on the motor & other suspension up grades & I relocated the clutch master cylinder to the engine fire wall from under the dash on a bracket. I was wondering if it could be the old style pressure plate I have and I should i be using the newer style plate and before anyone ask I did bleed the lines and its a good stream of fluid & no air at all.







The pressure plate load shouldn't be an issue, IMO it may be the type of master your using, and with your recent relocation you may have changed the pedal geometry?, or you may have shorten the travel of the master?

I run a 3 finger Sachs Borg/Beck 2800 lb 11" pressure plate with a Sach's Kelvar disc in front of a Keisler TKO600 5 spd, I using the Keisler/Wilwood .700 bore master and an FTE hyd throw out bearing, the master is mounted directly in the firewall hole intended for the stock 4spd pedal rod to Z bar application, the pushrod to activate the master is attached to the stock pivot point where the 4spd stock rod would attach, total pedal travel is 4 inches, total travel of the master is 1.400 inches....pedal effort is non-existent




Old car are me......






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