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Intro to racing. Did you guys run a stock motor first? #1481157
08/07/13 07:47 PM
08/07/13 07:47 PM
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71nonRT340shaker Offline OP
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71nonRT340shaker  Offline OP
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I posted a bit ago with pics of the drag car I picked up recently. I'd love to get to the track next year, and was curious how many guys have used 'junk yard' motors to get the feel of the car as well as racing in general. I have run street cars hard but haven't made a pass before.

Here's what I have to work with, 69 barracuda that has been cut to pieces, has a 14pt cage, all lexan windows, stock floor and its all steel minus the hood and front bumper. The chassis is a cut up k-frame set up for a motor plate, stock front end, 9in rear end with 4.56's and a spool. Has leafs in the rear with a hard welded ladder bar set up between the leafs and slicks. The car is set up for a BB/727, 2 fabbed driveshafts, old Hooker SC huge primary fenderwell headers, the rear tires are 32 x 16.5's and skinnies on the front. The 440 short block was built by Roth racing, it has fresh 452 heads with triple springs and big valves, Harland Sharpe rockers, domed pistons, was supposedly running the 850 thermoquad I got with it, 8.5" converter, what I was told is a built 727 with RMVB. I have no idea what the car weighs but I can push it around the garage without much effort, and I moved it against the wall using a pair of tractor supply ATV dollies under the front wheels.

My idea is to run a stock motor with the 727 I have, but I'm not sure about the RPM's it would be turning, I don't want to get in over my head by putting in a built motor without more experience driving. Any advice, or thoughts? I know it will cost money to get a running motor, and the converter will have to be milder but I'm sure the car will be plenty quick to get it dialed in and some seat time to get comfortable. Thanks in advance, TC.

7806295-IMG_8141.JPG (79 downloads)
Re: Intro to racing. Did you guys run a stock motor first? [Re: 71nonRT340shaker] #1481158
08/07/13 08:03 PM
08/07/13 08:03 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,223
Bend,OR USA
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Cab_Burge Offline
I Win
Cab_Burge  Offline
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,223
Bend,OR USA
Quote:

I posted a bit ago with pics of the drag car I picked up recently. I'd love to get to the track next year, and was curious how many guys have used 'junk yard' motors to get the feel of the car as well as racing in general. I have run street cars hard but haven't made a pass before.

Here's what I have to work with, 69 barracuda that has been cut to pieces, has a 14pt cage, all lexan windows, stock floor and its all steel minus the hood and front bumper. The chassis is a cut up k-frame set up for a motor plate, stock front end, 9in rear end with 4.56's and a spool. Has leafs in the rear with a hard welded ladder bar set up between the leafs and slicks. The car is set up for a BB/727, 2 fabbed driveshafts, old Hooker SC huge primary fenderwell headers, the rear tires are 32 x 16.5's and skinnies on the front. The 440 short block was built by Roth racing, it has fresh 452 heads with triple springs and big valves, Harland Sharpe rockers, domed pistons, was supposedly running the 850 thermoquad I got with it, 8.5" converter, what I was told is a built 727 with RMVB. I have no idea what the car weighs but I can push it around the garage without much effort, and I moved it against the wall using a pair of tractor supply ATV dollies under the front wheels.

My idea is to run a stock motor with the 727 I have, but I'm not sure about the RPM's it would be turning, I don't want to get in over my head by putting in a built motor without more experience driving. Any advice, or thoughts? I know it will cost money to get a running motor, and the converter will have to be milder but I'm sure the car will be plenty quick to get it dialed in and some seat time to get comfortable. Thanks in advance, TC.


Do you know how fast the car was before with that set up in it? If slower than ten flat I would say run it with the parts you listed, you can adjust the throttle cable so you don't get full throttle (so you go slower at first ) and later readjust it to go faster I started of driving a very slow car(17.20 ET at or slower than the speed of most voices ) at the drags first, my current car will run low 9 at 143 MPH in the 1/4 I ran a Duster in NHRA S/ST one year that started off running a Holley 4776 600 CFM double pumper carb, that carb. wasn't fast enough for the class So I ended up switching to a bunch of different sizes and part number Holley carbs that year to run fast enough That car picked up .8 ET and around 10 MPH in the 1/4 mile by swapping those carbs. Lots of ways to slow cars down Good luck, be safe and stay safe In other words do what you think is best for you


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: Intro to racing. Did you guys run a stock motor first? [Re: 71nonRT340shaker] #1481159
08/07/13 08:05 PM
08/07/13 08:05 PM
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 311
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Dartthunder340 Offline
enthusiast
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Colorado Springs, Colorado
I say run it. I started out only a couple of years ago with a fairly stout 340 in my Dart and just short shifted at 5500rpm for some passes until I really felt like going for it all. Take a guy you feel very comfortable with to help out and look over things before, during, and after. Ultimately you are the only one who will decide to put you foot all the way through it. Good luck and nice car!


Better get inside Ma. Looks like a storm's comin'.
Re: Intro to racing. Did you guys run a stock motor first? [Re: 71nonRT340shaker] #1481160
08/07/13 08:10 PM
08/07/13 08:10 PM
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 22,873
Chicken coop
dustergirl340 Offline
Chicken Little
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Just take it easy the first few runs, until you get comfortable with it.
Another option is to run one of your daily drivers at a T&T, just to get the swing of things. Who cares if it's slow? I started my daughter racing on a 19 second 4 cylinder Mustang, lol!

Re: Intro to racing. Did you guys run a stock motor first? [Re: 71nonRT340shaker] #1481161
08/07/13 08:21 PM
08/07/13 08:21 PM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,969
Chandler, AZ
Duner Offline
top fuel
Duner  Offline
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Chandler, AZ
Nice looking car!

Absolutely - just take it easy the first few trips down the track with it. Drive it like you are getting on the freeway the first couple of hits. Get the feel of it at 50 then 75 mph at least before going all out. When you decide to actually "launch" it hard - just ONLY launch it and see if it goes straight or not before getting any real speed up with it in anger.

I still remember the guy I sold my ex pro-stocker to... He made a full pass as his first pass down the track in it and spun it backwards going thru the traps. Whoops! I guess he didn't understand what I meant by "taking it easy" the first few passes? LOL

Re: Intro to racing. Did you guys run a stock motor first? [Re: 71nonRT340shaker] #1481162
08/07/13 09:03 PM
08/07/13 09:03 PM
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Chilliwack B.C. Canada
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RUNCHARGER Offline
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Chilliwack B.C. Canada
If it is a really trick engine I would not put more runs on it than necessary especially if I had a stocker laying around. But if it isn't too trick and you'd have to buy a stocker then I would short shift it and maybe disconnect the secondaries.
It's amazing how you go from being impressed to bored within a few runs.

Sheldon

Re: Intro to racing. Did you guys run a stock motor first? [Re: Duner] #1481163
08/07/13 09:07 PM
08/07/13 09:07 PM
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71nonRT340shaker Offline OP
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All of those posts sound reasonable to me, and as far as the car goes it has 6.18 baked into the rear window so that's mid to high 9's. I got it from a guy who got it in a horse trade and had no interest in a drag car. I know words are words, with that being said the short block and heads were supposedly in the car when it was last run. The heads have since had the larger valves installed and fresh springs etc. My issue with possibly detuning is I need to pay someone to go over the shortblock, hone and re-bearing it. I dont know what cam is in it, I need lifters, pushrods, maybe an intake, and an ignition system to get the motor to where it's ready to fire up. I have a brand new external oil pump set up and pan for it as well. Realistically I think this motor will take 2500 - 3000 to get fired up, if it stops at that. Plus it sat for a good while, I'd like to have discs up front, I'm sure it'll be about 1k for rubber and it all needs plumbed for fuel/fuel cell, and a fair amount of wiring. As much as I'd love to go racing next week, those monthly bills just don't seem to go away.

Rear end pic.

7806386-IMG_7518.JPG (59 downloads)
Re: Intro to racing. Did you guys run a stock motor first? [Re: 71nonRT340shaker] #1481164
08/07/13 09:55 PM
08/07/13 09:55 PM
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Posts: 116
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71nonRT340shaker Offline OP
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71nonRT340shaker  Offline OP
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As you can see this car is dated as far as the suspension setup. The tubs/trunk are galvanized steel. I need to spend a day cleaning it up and repaint the rear as well as the cage needs to be black instead of Easter egg purple.

7806445-IMG_7506.JPG (50 downloads)
Re: Intro to racing. Did you guys run a stock motor first? [Re: 71nonRT340shaker] #1481165
08/08/13 09:51 AM
08/08/13 09:51 AM
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Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart Offline
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The NHRA six pass agenda for a license is designed to make sure new guys don't mess up, and wind up competent to drive a sub 10.00 car after six passes. Set your first outing up based on that.
If I were the crewchief, I would put the car together as you plan to race it. The first order of business is to get a mindset in place of when to lift. That time is the exact instant the car is making a move other than perfectly straight down the track under your control. Grow nerves in your posterior, and let them dictate your moves , not your logical mind. Once you fully understand and accept the fact that ANY odd movement makes the run junk, then it becomes easier, and the tendency to stay in it too long is greatly diminished. I can't emphasize that enough. If you get that permanently planted in your mind, then you are ready to start the educational part of driving, the experience. Remember, it is a lot easier and cheaper to fuel up for another pass and wait in line than to fix the car after it hits the wall or worse.
Start by foot braking at first, low rpm launches, and half throttle. Run it out 200 feet, lift some, drive it the rest of the track and get a solid feel for the way it handles and brakes. Add more launch rpm and throttle, and distance , leaving extra room before the mph lights for braking till you are confident in yourself and the car. Plan your next pass, then stick to it. You should be comfortable and ready after four or five passes. Never forget rule #1- if it makes an odd move, lift instantly. Whether it is a time trial, or the finals. Races almost never pay enough to the winner to fix a bent car.


8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
Re: Intro to racing. Did you guys run a stock motor first? [Re: gregsdart] #1481166
08/08/13 09:59 AM
08/08/13 09:59 AM
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Posts: 20,640
in a cattle trailer down by th...
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Guitar Jones Offline
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Quote:

The NHRA six pass agenda for a license is designed to make sure new guys don't mess up, and wind up competent to drive a sub 10.00 car after six passes. Set your first outing up based on that.
If I were the crewchief, I would put the car together as you plan to race it. The first order of business is to get a mindset in place of when to lift. That time is the exact instant the car is making a move other than perfectly straight down the track under your control. Grow nerves in your posterior, and let them dictate your moves , not your logical mind. Once you fully understand and accept the fact that ANY odd movement makes the run junk, then it becomes easier, and the tendency to stay in it too long is greatly diminished. I can't emphasize that enough. If you get that permanently planted in your mind, then you are ready to start the educational part of driving, the experience. Remember, it is a lot easier and cheaper to fuel up for another pass and wait in line than to fix the car after it hits the wall or worse.
Start by foot braking at first, low rpm launches, and half throttle. Run it out 200 feet, lift some, drive it the rest of the track and get a solid feel for the way it handles and brakes. Add more launch rpm and throttle, and distance , leaving extra room before the mph lights for braking till you are confident in yourself and the car. Plan your next pass, then stick to it. You should be comfortable and ready after four or five passes. Never forget rule #1- if it makes an odd move, lift instantly. Whether it is a time trial, or the finals. Races almost never pay enough to the winner to fix a bent car.




Invaluable advice right there.


"Follow me the wise man said, but he walked behind"


'92 D250 Club Cab CTD, 47RH conversion, pump tweaks, injectors, rear disc and hydroboost conversion.
'74 W200 Crew Cab 360, NV4500, D44, D60 and NP205 divorced transfer case. Rear disc and hydroboost conversion.
2019 1500 Long Horn Crew Cab 4WD, 5.7 Hemi.
Re: Intro to racing. Did you guys run a stock motor first? [Re: Guitar Jones] #1481167
08/08/13 10:10 AM
08/08/13 10:10 AM
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Posts: 4,243
Canada
Kam*Kuda Offline
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Kam*Kuda  Offline
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Gregsdart. Really well said. Thanks


1970 Barracuda Convertible
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1955 Land Rover
Re: Intro to racing. Did you guys run a stock motor first? [Re: 71nonRT340shaker] #1481168
08/08/13 10:27 AM
08/08/13 10:27 AM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY Offline
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MR_P_BODY  Offline
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Romeo MI
Your gonna be taking it easy on the first few passes
anyways(if your smart) just to test out the
handling and the brakes and seeing if the car pulls..
take your time and like Greg said... learn to lift..
also... the ladder bars and the springs are gonna
bind up with the 2 different front points... just
take it easy at first.. I dont know what the bind
will cause in handling







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