I would like to hear what you guys have used,,,what you like,,dislike,,etc,,,switching from front drums,,,to disc brakes,,,,What did you use on your car ???

This is on the Charger,,,,

I would prefer to buy a KIT,,,as opposed to piece mealing the parts

Is there a particular brand you like,,,,,quality ,,, etc,

Did the "kit" come with EVERYTHING,,,,,was it a easy bolt on deal ??

Car is STREET driven only,,,

I need to improve the stopping power for this thing,,,pretty hilly' here in Kentucky,,,and it can make for a scary ride if i need to stop in a hurry,,,lol

Thanks,,,, Doug

I can't reccomend a kit as I lean toward piece mealing it that way if i need a part I can more than likely get it at the local parts house vs. having to deal wit hthe inflated price and lead time trying to get it from the KIT seller .



on a car that doesn't need the stock look i'd lean toward the stock 73 a body drum spindle , ARE adaptors for VIPER calipers and 11.75 rotors .

Go to the AREngineering web site...Not a complete kit, but their stuff works! I have had the Cordoba rotor,Wilwood 4 piston caliper set up on my 69 GTX and have not had any issues what so ever since I installed it about 4 years ago. Hang on ...it will stop!

We sell a 13" bolt on deal with forged disc spindles, but you will need 17" wheels to do so...

I went with the SSBC kit. The front brakes use 65 mustang stuff so I am able to get pads, etc.. from the local auto parts store. And I can run the original 14" wheels too.

The kit works well, but took me some time to get it to work well. I went with their power brake system on my 70 roadrunner. The booster and m/c are late 70's corvette units if I remember right... and I just could not get the brakes to work well at all. Couldn't lock the wheels up at all and felt like I hardly had any brakes during a panic stop situation.

So i ditched the booster and m/c and I finally bought a dual diaphram booster for a 70 roadrunner and a 15/16" m/c for a Dart and the brakes works perfectly now.

Don't know if I would go with SSBC again or not....it was $$$$.

i used a '73 a-body conversion kit from Right Stuff. avoid it like the plague!

doctordiff has a couple versions depending on what you have for wheels too. but his site is a little outdated. pm him

I used Viper stuff on my car but it wasn't a complete kit. You have to swap to the late model knuckles first and you'll have to find those in a wrecking yard or at a swap meet.

Master Power Brakes sell new reproductions of the desirable late model A body spindles. They'll also sell you a stock style complete kit made to work with 14" wheels.

My choice was a 13" Baer system with the late model spindles and 17" wheels. It works well - I can stop at speed with confidence. I do need to get a dual diaphram booster however to get full benefit; a project for this winter.

putting new brakes on it for me?

Steve,,,yup,,,now you just have to come down to Kentucky to test drive it,,,,,,lol

I ended up getting the SSBC kit,,,,,

I have MANUAL brakes,,,,,no booster,,,,

Is there a particular,,,,small bore MC that i should get,,,,you guys mentioned the Dart MC,,,thanks for any info ....

Aerospace Pro Street, that is what I have. Doug, you can have my front disc breaks that I had on the Road runner If you would like. They worked really well.

Thanks Tom,
I didnt know you had an extra set,,,
I just got the new kit today,,,
Already got the old brakes torn off the front,,,,
thanks for the offer...........

I'm thinking of doing this conversion also on my 68 superbee.
i was looking at a kit by mp brakes which supplies a bolt in kit including a booster.
Has anybody used this kit?
many thanks

Dayclona, I read your email but have a few questions. I am currently installing a manual SSBC force 10 4-wheel disc on my 69 superbee and had read all of the issues with the supplied brake booster. I was considering using the Wilwood cast aluminum booster which provides both a 7/8" bore and clean good looks. the issue i believe is that the brake piston rod does not snap/click into this booster like a normal chrysler M/C. Is that correct? If i were to use the wilwood M/C can i still run without a proportioning valve. I had actually never heard anyone suggest not using a proportioning valve, but i would like the idea if it is sound from an engineering standpoint. Please advise.

I was considering using the Wilwood cast aluminum booster which provides both a 7/8" bore and clean good looks. the issue i believe is that the brake piston rod does not snap/click into this booster like a normal chrysler M/C.





Garret,.....I'm assuming you mean the wilwood cast aluminun master cylinder,......I don't think they have a cast aluminum booster? .....the wilwood Master cylinder is a nice piece,....you would have to alter the end of your manual pedal rod, by either welding on a treaded sleeve 3/8-24 if I recall, just make sure the sleeve end that goes toward your rod end GOES OVER and gets welded, don't butt weld it (think safety!)......you may also be able to use a portion of the adjustable Mopar Performance Adjustable manual brake pedal rod?......if you prefere a factory master cylinder, I'd recommend a disk/drum 70 B body application....Cardone # M1614 If I recall, or AutoZone M1475....pic attached







I had actually never heard anyone suggest not using a proportioning valve, but i would like the idea if it is sound from an engineering standpoint. Please advise.

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Garret, ONLY! If your running 4 wheel disc and a disc/drum master you will not need a proportioning valve or adjustable bias valve,....rear line will come directly off the master, the front lines will require a standard brake tee to tee off the front left and right lines when eliminating the proportioning valve.....I built many 4 wheel disc systems for early B bodies, as well as E bodies, and later B bodies using this system, tens of thousands of miles with no failures on my own cars, as well as customers cars......hope this helps you out

Mike

I have the Wilwood 7/8" master cylinder. I remember the push rod did snap into the piston pocket. I'll check today to see if it was the stock or aftermarket push rod that I used.