Draining the rad will actually only lower it to the bottom of the (2) 1" main cooling holes where the coolant enters the front of the block. The coolant will be in effect at the top edge of a dam & any slight jostling will kick some over & contaminate the oil. I agree headers are a pain. I'd think you could get by with out touching them (but you're there & I ain't) just get a box wrench on the hex plugs & if they're tight a hard jerk or tap with a hammer is better than a steady pull for breaking them loose.

I've drained just radiator in the past, then jacked rear of car pretty high with rad petcock still open, to get more coolant out of the block. THen when it's done draining, you let rear back down. Still can pee a bit out once you loosen pump and timing cover.

That sounds a LOT easier than taking off headers!
R.

Ya that does sound easier. To late. I just dumped about a half gallon all over me and the floor. Didn't expect that much. I've only done one side done so far. I assume I have to do both sides?

Besides I'm now thinking about putting pet clocks in each one for the future draining. Has anyone done that, and what are the pros and cons?

About the time you don't think you'll have to drain the block again, you will. I was thinking of putting blue lock tight on the valve threads.

You can drain the driver side block part by taking out the 2. lowest front bolt that holds the PS pump bracket. Take care to put the same bolt back in, as a too long bolt will screw right into the cylinder!
My

I will drain the other side in the morning. I can see thru the dampener hole they didn't install the oil slinger. So I had to order one of those. I assume it will fit with an comp cam double roller chain? Once I get the cover off I will report back what I find.

I did pick up some nice 90 degree pet cocks for the engine drains for NAPA.

Good news bad news. The time chain hasn't slipped neither has the gears on the keys. I do have a new timing chain I'm going to go ahead and replace it anyhow. I see there's a missing cam thrust plate bolt with hole is missing all together and the oil slinger is missing as well. I have an old 318 in the garage, should I install the missing bolt with the hole for oiling the chain? Or will it do a better job without it?

So ther must have been another problem probably the MSD system. Typical!

You can install the bolt with the hole (upper pass side) or drill a 1/8" hole in an existing bolt in that location and or use the angled drip tray that later SB's use or both. How much is the new oil slinger? I can get a good/clean/undented used one to your door for $8

Do you recommend having that bolt in place? I assume they did that way so more oil got on the chain. I do have a oil slinger on the way. It will be on Monday. I also have access to the drip tray off my 318 out in the garage. But that too requires only 3 bolts being installed. Any thoughts on best path forward?

SB's do have chain longevity problems which I feel are lube issues but others strongly dissagree (& they may be right). The bolt with the hole only gives drip oil from the valley. I would use the bolt & the angled drip tray & the slinger (preferably mine ). There's even dissagreement as to whether it is actually an "oil slinger" to help lube the chain or if it is there to provide additional protection from front seal leakage which as Ma knew would generate a horde of comebacks. You do go from 4 to 3 bolts by using the drip tray but no reported problems from that. You can even drill a 1/8" hole in the other top bolt on the DR side for more splash. Short answer: use both (all three) if you got em handy (4 if you drill the other bolt).

Good idea RapidRobert!

I'm going to try and get all 4 bolts in. Two top drilled and the drip plate installed.

I did a fit test with the cam gear and I'm not getting the clearence of .002-.008 between the cam gear and the thrust plate. Do you put a screw driver back there and pull then check? The thrust plate isn't grooved. So I would have to assume they set that up with the original cam gear? Should I be concerned or just install it?

Actually when I mentioned "all 4" I was thinking of (1) the slinger (2) the drip tray (3) the pass bolt drilled & (4) drilling the dr bolt. A person could cut the tang off of the drip tray that sets in the bolt hole & use a (4th) bolt & an oversize washer to secure it all but I've never seen one come loose. No opinion on the cam end play as I'm embarrassed to admit that I have never checked it as it has always (until now) slipped my mind EDIT there must be a reason the want SOME (.002-.008") clearance there. I would continue to work with it & not button it up till we find out for sure. See if you can get some clearance, 2-8 tho ain't much

I'm a little confused on this point. I don't think the other cam gear had clearence, but I never checked. I can't seam to get any clearence. Should it be that hard to move the cam in and out. Maybe I'm not getting something. Looks like the cam gear will be up against thrust plate. The part will be tomorrow and I want this thing together but don't want to damage it. If you don't have the clearence how to you get the clearence? Why would installing a new timing chain set change the clearence? Would it be the thickness of the cam gear?

Might be hard to grab the cam gear and move it in and out a hair, because the valvetrain is still in place at this point, correct? If the rocker shafts are sitting on the bench, then there should be no load on cam enough that you can't slide it away from the block. a little.

Ya it's fully assembled. Should I have to worry about the end play if all I'm doing is installing a new timing chain/gears. The engine build only has 1500 miles on it. Thought it jumped a tooth. As long as I was in there checking the timing chain I figured I would replace it with a pre stretched comp cam setup.