Re: Timing chain slip
[Re: dnd0001]
#1477409
08/13/13 09:43 PM
08/13/13 09:43 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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Draining the rad will actually only lower it to the bottom of the (2) 1" main cooling holes where the coolant enters the front of the block. The coolant will be in effect at the top edge of a dam & any slight jostling will kick some over & contaminate the oil. I agree headers are a pain. I'd think you could get by with out touching them (but you're there & I ain't) just get a box wrench on the hex plugs & if they're tight a hard jerk or tap with a hammer is better than a steady pull for breaking them loose.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Timing chain slip
[Re: dnd0001]
#1477421
08/17/13 04:43 PM
08/17/13 04:43 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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SB's do have chain longevity problems which I feel are lube issues but others strongly dissagree (& they may be right). The bolt with the hole only gives drip oil from the valley. I would use the bolt & the angled drip tray & the slinger (preferably mine ). There's even dissagreement as to whether it is actually an "oil slinger" to help lube the chain or if it is there to provide additional protection from front seal leakage which as Ma knew would generate a horde of comebacks. You do go from 4 to 3 bolts by using the drip tray but no reported problems from that. You can even drill a 1/8" hole in the other top bolt on the DR side for more splash. Short answer: use both (all three) if you got em handy (4 if you drill the other bolt).
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Timing chain slip
[Re: dnd0001]
#1477423
08/18/13 11:33 AM
08/18/13 11:33 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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Actually when I mentioned "all 4" I was thinking of (1) the slinger (2) the drip tray (3) the pass bolt drilled & (4) drilling the dr bolt. A person could cut the tang off of the drip tray that sets in the bolt hole & use a (4th) bolt & an oversize washer to secure it all but I've never seen one come loose. No opinion on the cam end play as I'm embarrassed to admit that I have never checked it as it has always (until now) slipped my mind EDIT there must be a reason the want SOME (.002-.008") clearance there. I would continue to work with it & not button it up till we find out for sure. See if you can get some clearance, 2-8 tho ain't much
Last edited by RapidRobert; 08/18/13 11:38 AM.
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