I picked up an ex NASCAR Nationwide R5/P7 Dodge motor that I will be turning into a 400" cast intake/4500 high rpm drag only piece. This will take some time as the cam/valvetrain will need to be replaced, induction system stepped up, along with the obvious bore/stroke increase. I have 2 other projects ahead of this one, and lots of parts to find/order, but I'll update progress slowly as it happens. Hope to get it on the pump sometime late summer or fall depending on how it goes.

Hope parts are easier to get than my R4/P5 engine. Good luck and keep us posted!

Cool. Look forward to your effort

Do you have any cranks with 3.600 or more stroke?

My 3.25" is not a great match for the 2 spd tranny.

Should make an awesome combo. I know there are a lot of Trophy Trucks that run 440+" SB2 and Roush headed combos to achieve 800+hp reliably. Same should be expected from the Mopar camp.

Should know soon if shifting the exhaust guide and seat over toward the cylinder wall a bit is feasible. Not sure where it will end up, but the plan is to get a bigger intake valve in this thing.

That bore and stroke should make a great gutless high horsepower monster. Great comp motor. Put a stick behind it and you got one bad combo.

I made a few passes with a 4.10 gear and 31" tires. I shifted at 9K in the MPH lights in the eighth. The 6.17 gear is much better for 1/8 mile but just does not quite get the 1/4 mile done.

I tried the 7" for gutless motors and picked up nothing in 60 ft. and lost overall.

There is only one way to go with a powerglide and heavy car. That is stroke in the crankshaft.

Rick what is the wall thickness with the 4.250 Bore?

Can run that all day long.

I am curious as to why a glide is being used unless the sole intent is to bracket race the car and ultra consistency and not running the best ET are the aims.
My buddy campaigned a dinky cammed 12 to1 r5 p7 3000 pound Dart with a 28 by 10.5 tire and 4.56 gears and with. next to no messing around at all got it to run 143 mph and 60 foot 1.28 and 1.29 with a 904 trans.
Guess I don't understand all the glide struggles and convertor woes.i know his convertor likely wasnt even optimal( just guessed about where it should flash and sent it to Ptc then threw it in the car....

Other than the 60 ft your buddies thrown together combo is nothing special.

I am running a glide because it is what is in the car. Would be running a Pro Trans but Dave never had the decency to call back after I spent days trying to get him to answer the phone and then an hour going over the dyno sheets and car.

My 60 ft is nothing special 1.32 in great air. That was with an ole PTC 6,800 converter. I ran 5.82 in the eighth also in good air. 119 MPH in the eight which is only about 800-840 HP with any bracket motor combo. At 1000 ft the car was well over 140 MPH. Did not know the full RPM limit of the rods. Lifted around 1100ft and still ran a 9.27@127 to say I was on the brakes heavy is an understatement.

So tell me just how dumb am I for running a powerglide. When building the next project with the P7 heads explain why the 904 will not hold up with power adders. Ran torque flites for years. But, with the 25.2 chassis a stock length tail housing does not fit. The Proflite is the only option and it will not work with power adders. So why spend $10,000 to run a little faster one season. Actually would have done it a few months ago but, remember Dave didn't want the business enough to give me a quote and take my money.

Oh rant over that's why I am running a powerglide.

Leon

PS If a P7R5 guy is smart and has the money a Browel bell and a 5 spd is the smart way to go. No adapters no BS just a clean sheet of paper.

Tony you guys did not buy the Browell bell to fit the R5? I talked to JW, ATI, and Reid in great length at PRI. SFI certifies the bell after it is drilled. Reid says he get something like 30 done at a time. Unless he could take the small block casting and drill it for R5 and do enough to pay for the trouble it is not going to happen. The ATI does not have enough material in the right places. The Reid looked like it did. I have a JW and have the whole time I have ran this Glide. Not going to do this again. If the trouble is going to be gone through I will plug and redrill a Reid bell and replace the case with a Reid. Sheilds and JW stuff bolting to the pump is something I would like to do away with.

The current engine in my car uses the 8 bolt Ford flange. So there is not much sense in getting rid of the adapter. But, once I do something else like an EEI block with a chevy flange crank. All the rest of this stuff will get cleaned up.

Bobsprofab sells an adapter. I made some changes sense I have a bolt at 12 O'clock and could clean up some things on it. The ATI deal is an adapter that goes to an Olds or Pontiac Bell. Major firewall work to clear the top of that bell. R5P7 Bantom has that configuration. Works great in an altered terible with a stock firewall.

Leon