400" R5/P7

I made a few passes with a 4.10 gear and 31" tires. I shifted at 9K in the MPH lights in the eighth. The 6.17 gear is much better for 1/8 mile but just does not quite get the 1/4 mile done.

I tried the 7" for gutless motors and picked up nothing in 60 ft. and lost overall.

There is only one way to go with a powerglide and heavy car. That is stroke in the crankshaft.

Rick what is the wall thickness with the 4.250 Bore?

Can run that all day long.

I am curious as to why a glide is being used unless the sole intent is to bracket race the car and ultra consistency and not running the best ET are the aims.
My buddy campaigned a dinky cammed 12 to1 r5 p7 3000 pound Dart with a 28 by 10.5 tire and 4.56 gears and with. next to no messing around at all got it to run 143 mph and 60 foot 1.28 and 1.29 with a 904 trans.
Guess I don't understand all the glide struggles and convertor woes.i know his convertor likely wasnt even optimal( just guessed about where it should flash and sent it to Ptc then threw it in the car....

Other than the 60 ft your buddies thrown together combo is nothing special.

I am running a glide because it is what is in the car. Would be running a Pro Trans but Dave never had the decency to call back after I spent days trying to get him to answer the phone and then an hour going over the dyno sheets and car.

My 60 ft is nothing special 1.32 in great air. That was with an ole PTC 6,800 converter. I ran 5.82 in the eighth also in good air. 119 MPH in the eight which is only about 800-840 HP with any bracket motor combo. At 1000 ft the car was well over 140 MPH. Did not know the full RPM limit of the rods. Lifted around 1100ft and still ran a 9.27@127 to say I was on the brakes heavy is an understatement.

So tell me just how dumb am I for running a powerglide. When building the next project with the P7 heads explain why the 904 will not hold up with power adders. Ran torque flites for years. But, with the 25.2 chassis a stock length tail housing does not fit. The Proflite is the only option and it will not work with power adders. So why spend $10,000 to run a little faster one season. Actually would have done it a few months ago but, remember Dave didn't want the business enough to give me a quote and take my money.

Oh rant over that's why I am running a powerglide.

Leon

PS If a P7R5 guy is smart and has the money a Browel bell and a 5 spd is the smart way to go. No adapters no BS just a clean sheet of paper.

Tony you guys did not buy the Browell bell to fit the R5? I talked to JW, ATI, and Reid in great length at PRI. SFI certifies the bell after it is drilled. Reid says he get something like 30 done at a time. Unless he could take the small block casting and drill it for R5 and do enough to pay for the trouble it is not going to happen. The ATI does not have enough material in the right places. The Reid looked like it did. I have a JW and have the whole time I have ran this Glide. Not going to do this again. If the trouble is going to be gone through I will plug and redrill a Reid bell and replace the case with a Reid. Sheilds and JW stuff bolting to the pump is something I would like to do away with.

The current engine in my car uses the 8 bolt Ford flange. So there is not much sense in getting rid of the adapter. But, once I do something else like an EEI block with a chevy flange crank. All the rest of this stuff will get cleaned up.

Bobsprofab sells an adapter. I made some changes sense I have a bolt at 12 O'clock and could clean up some things on it. The ATI deal is an adapter that goes to an Olds or Pontiac Bell. Major firewall work to clear the top of that bell. R5P7 Bantom has that configuration. Works great in an altered terible with a stock firewall.

Leon

Leon,

I thought I had put in my post. I am using a Bruno. I just had it made in Feb. They had a NASCAR bell to take the pattern from. They never said anything about making one specifically for the R5 block.

I am going to run a Meziere flex plate/flywheel and either a 7 or 8" convertor. I also wanted to keep the R5 starter location. maybe that and the Bruno is why they cannot do it specifically for the Bruno.

Sorry about not giving that detail about the Bruno I thought I had it in there.

thanks for the heads up on the adapter Bob makes. I should get a hold of Bob before I go having an adaptor made.

I am not worried about the firewall area. It is going in a full tube car. I am hoping to still use the NASCAR headers too.

Some aftermarket bells have enough material to redrill for a R5 pattern. Then you just need a flywheel with 130 tooth starter gear. Then just run the mopar starter. Pretty simple. It is not legal with SFI to redrill the bell. That is considered a modification. If you get the same thing done with a Browell bell you can bolt right up and use a Mopar starter. Less stuff to do with the flywheel if you have a chevy style flange on the crank.

The R5 to Mopar small block overlaps the dowel pins and a couple bolt holes. The above the starter is almost unuseable. I don't know on the R5 to chevy bell. Have seen them but, don't remember how bad it is. I think the dowels are better.

Hi Leon,

I am attaching the hole patterns provided by Browell. The dark blue is the BB mopar hole pattern that Browell uses on thier bells. The light blue is the R5 bell pattern. I am still able to use the NASCAR starter, the Mezeire flex plate will have the 8 bolt GM R07 pattern which I have, 130 teeth. All custom and all billet. pricey but I figure if I am engineering this thing I want it right the first time.

I would like to keep the SFI cert.

I will PM you Tony as Rick does not need this post hijacked any further.

I went over to Rick's on Saturday, that's gonna be one nasty motor

Maybe I can explain where Tony left off. Some bolt holes on the R5 were in the radius of the Browel bell. So they sold him a bell for a BB Mopar and then adapter to go back to R5. This is probably a better adapter as no bolt holes or dowels will be close to each other.

When Bob made my adapter,he advised me to get the ultra bell for s.b. mopar vs my b.b. mopar so it would get me more use of all the bolt holes.