Did a disc brake changeover from SSBC. Bench bled the master cylinders hen installed, bled all 4 wheels starting from furthest one from master cylinder.. Still no hard pedal. What do you guys think I'm doing wrong? Any help would be appreciated

are all of the lines new? possibly cracked or lose fitting letting air in? I had the same problem on my roadrunner. the bleeders seemed to bleed out fine only to have a soft pedal. got looking and found brake fluid oozing out of the fitting that goes down to the axle.

Do they pump up? If so there's still air in there. M/C might be bad & is this the same M/C or a new one? Might purchase 2 brass male inverted flare fittings (they're cheap & you will reuse em) from the Edelman fittings cabinet at your parts house & cap the M/C ports. If the M/C is good (& bled out) the pedal will be rock hard with virtually no travel. If good there then you can hookup 1 line & rebleed that half out & if you now have a hard pedal the problem is in the other half. Holler how it turns out. EDIT if the air is in the front discs & you cant clear them you might have to take the caliper off & tilt it as the bleeder might be at 12 0'clock but the passage from the bleeder down to the bore must meet the bore at 12 0'clock. Sometimes stomping the pedal several times then you open the bleeder at the exact time the helper is on the 4th downward stomp will agitate the fluid enough to get the last remnants of air out & be sure to tighten the bleeders enough so air ain't drawn back in on the upstroke DAMHIK on that bonehead mistake

Did you mount the calipers in the proper position?

Thanks for the reply guys. Calipers are mounted properly. Using all the original lines. Installed a proportion valve is the only thing I changed in line. Thanks again guys. Will let you know how it turns out....

Plug the outlets at the master cylinder. If the pedal is hard then there is still air in the lines. You can do the same at the dist block by shutting off front or rear lines with a plug. That will isolate which circuit is causing the cussing. On a new empty system it can be a [Edited by Moparts - Family Friendly Site - Keep it clean]. I've had to bleed 4-5 times to get all the air out. Speed bleeders or a catch tank with the one way check valve help a lot. Also, make sure you have adjusted the rear brakes if they are drums.

Used vacuum pump and couldn't really get anything to come out of the rear bleeders.. And also my other question is does it matter if I mounted the proportion valve with the knob pointed to ground instead in up right position?

i just did my jeep close bleeder,pump vacuum up open bleeder,repeat. i got just dribble.went to front bleed both sides that centered valve.went to back and bled started to get alot of fluid.if the valve is not centered sometimes they are stubborn.also i seen the valves mounted sideways but never upsidedown so dont know if that makes a difference

Thanks for the replys guys.. Gonna mess with it in the morning

I went through this on a 4 wheel ssbc setup. Took along time to get the bubbles out. I went through about 2 quarts of brake fluid with a power bleeder and it still took a while. Patience.

I'd consider capping the M/C with 2 brass Edelman inverted flare plug & see if the M/C is good/bled then hookup one half. this'll help you narrow the problem down & make some progress. Holler how it goes

you probably need a Residual Pressure Valve in the rear line if your running rear drum brakes. If its an aftermarket prop valve it may not be built into it.