Re: Is there any reason
[Re: Mr.Yuck]
#1360106
12/28/12 12:57 PM
12/28/12 12:57 PM
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 446
oregon
savoyracer
OP
mopar
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OP
mopar
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 446
oregon
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Quote:
are you trying to take it out w/o removing the intake? if you cut it from back to front I'd think it would seal very well as it would not be very stable. They sell units that have access plates so you don't have to go thru all of that.
............I will remove the intake, I just want to be able to get access to my lifters at that point without having to remove anything else. I have a machine shop here, that I use all the time, I was thinking of making the cut on a 45 degree angle, so it would simply slip back togather with silicone to seal it. Just don't know if this is a good idea or not.
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Re: Is there any reason
[Re: savoyracer]
#1360107
12/28/12 02:17 PM
12/28/12 02:17 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,173
Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,173
Bend,OR USA
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Quote:
Quote:
are you trying to take it out w/o removing the intake? if you cut it from back to front I'd think it would seal very well as it would not be very stable. They sell units that have access plates so you don't have to go thru all of that.
............I will remove the intake, I just want to be able to get access to my lifters at that point without having to remove anything else. I have a machine shop here, that I use all the time, I was thinking of making the cut on a 45 degree angle, so it would simply slip back togather with silicone to seal it. Just don't know if this is a good idea or not.
I have a Bulldog two piece valley covers that is that way,I haven't used it yet so no valid input on how it works, sorry.  I did try one of the two piece sheet metal steel valley covers , it didn't seal that well  The single piece sheet metal steel valley cover that Koffels provides with there B1 kits could be slid out the front maybe, if you remove the distributor, I think  I haven't used it yet either 
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Is there any reason
[Re: Mr.Yuck]
#1360110
12/28/12 02:28 PM
12/28/12 02:28 PM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,910
Eighty Four, PA
B G Racing
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,910
Eighty Four, PA
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Quote:
here...
Only problem it's twice the cost,and machining the sides only takes a little time.
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Re: Is there any reason
[Re: 70dusterjohn]
#1360112
12/28/12 02:48 PM
12/28/12 02:48 PM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 34,884
S.E. South Dakota !
bigdad
Still Posting A Lot
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Still Posting A Lot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 34,884
S.E. South Dakota !
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My Bulldog 2 piece was cut on a 45 degree
When we dyno'd it , it had a slight vac leak
had to take another couple thousands off and reseal
The lips of fools bring them strife, and their mouths invite a beating.Proverbs 18:6
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Re: Is there any reason
[Re: sam64]
#1360113
12/28/12 02:48 PM
12/28/12 02:48 PM
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,608
fresno ca
mikeysmopars
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,608
fresno ca
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I have more time than money so I cut out the center and mad a plate like the one Indy offers.
Founder and CEO of the Central Valley Mopar Drag Pack
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Re: Is there any reason
[Re: mikeysmopars]
#1360114
12/28/12 03:10 PM
12/28/12 03:10 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
I have more time than money so I cut out the center and mad a plate like the one Indy offers.
This is what I was going to suggest. 
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Re: Is there any reason
[Re: savoyracer]
#1360115
12/28/12 03:16 PM
12/28/12 03:16 PM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,835
MI, usa
dvw
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,835
MI, usa
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Quote:
That I should not cut my Indy valley plate lengthwise in half. The plate fits under the Indy heads, and the only way to remove it, is either take off a head, or unbolt everything off the front of the engine, and slide it forward. I was thinking that I can make it a two piece valley plate, and it would simply lift out, then I can remove my lifters easily to be checked out. Then to reinstall, simply run a silicone bead down the joint and it will be good until next time. Anything wrong with this thought? 
The plate will come out as a one piece. Slide it slightly rearward, drop the front of the plate into the valley twist to one side and remove. I also tap the center holes in the plate 3/8",screw a bolt in till snug against the block. Helps break the seal at the front and rear china walls.
Doug
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Re: Is there any reason
[Re: savoyracer]
#1360120
12/30/12 10:24 AM
12/30/12 10:24 AM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,910
Eighty Four, PA
B G Racing
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,910
Eighty Four, PA
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Quote:
Gotta love Moparts......Thanks everyone for the ideas. BG's idea seems to fit my situation very well.
I only suggest it because we have done it on every engine we have done with the solid plate and the two piece plate.Even with the two piece Indy plate it is hard to inspect and remove the roller lifters through the removable plate.We have not experienced any leaks if properly sealed.We have seen leaks at the block rails when people try and slide the plate in place.Just cut enough that the plate can be started at a 45 degree angle and dropped in and make sure each corner is sealed.We have been doing it this way for over 12 years.
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Re: Is there any reason
[Re: savoyracer]
#1360121
12/30/12 11:39 AM
12/30/12 11:39 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
That I should not cut my Indy valley plate lengthwise in half. The plate fits under the Indy heads, and the only way to remove it, is either take off a head, or unbolt everything off the front of the engine, and slide it forward. I was thinking that I can make it a two piece valley plate, and it would simply lift out, then I can remove my lifters easily to be checked out. Then to reinstall, simply run a silicone bead down the joint and it will be good until next time. Anything wrong with this thought?
Myself, if I was going to make it removable I would
cut it length way but I would make it so it over laps
by welding a piece of alum to the lower part so you
end up with a 1" over lap so you can drill and tap
it for screws... put a bead of silicone on it and
tighten it up.... JMO.... if you have access to a mill
I would butt weld the piece and mill a step in both
parts to give the over lap and it would go out on
the china rails
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Finally listened to Andy F and just went with MP 337 intake and have had no leaks ever since 
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