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dropping the motor out of the bottom, and bellhousing q #1349333
12/10/12 09:51 PM
12/10/12 09:51 PM
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 257
albemarle, NC
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dusterbd13 Offline OP
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dusterbd13  Offline OP
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Joined: Jun 2006
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albemarle, NC
so i killed the a833 in my duster, and am swapping in a tremec. also changing the leaking oil pan gasket at the same time.



seems to me the easiest way to get all my parts out, while doing the least amount of work, would be to pull the whole drivetrain as a unit out of the bottom.



this would be relatively simple if i had a two post lift. i dont. i have a 4 post, drive on.



so it looks like ill be doing it on the ground, with a cherry picker.



would y'all agree that this would be the way to do it easiest and quickest?

is there any how to-s for this? any tips? ive never pulled one out the bottom before. always pulled them out the top. but now with the AC, PS, PB,TTI headers, lakewood bell, etc, it seems like id be doing much more work, and possibly more paint damage, getting it out the way i kinow.



so, tips on coming out the bottom? links to how to's or very informative posts?





also, i need to dial in my bellhousing for the tremec so the runout is correct. ive never done this, and the last time i tried, i gave up. i do have a dial indicator with a plunger, and a harbor freight magnetic base, but never figured out how to do it. again, and good mopar small block specific how to's for impatient morons?



thanks, guys. and im sorry im asking you to spoon feed me, but ive searched and searchedm and only gotten myself more convused.





michael


Michael Crawford CSP 1970 plymouth Duster back under construction: http://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.ph...ouring-makeover 1964 el camino beater shop truck 96403-project-drivabeater-2-0-64-el-camino-this-time
Re: dropping the motor out of the bottom, and bellhousing q [Re: dusterbd13] #1349334
12/10/12 10:04 PM
12/10/12 10:04 PM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo Offline
Too Many Posts
DaytonaTurbo  Offline
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
I did mine out the bottom with the cherry picker. Lift the car up, back out the torsion bar adjusting bolts. Remove torsion bar c-clips and remove torsion bars. Then I put the car back on its tires and remove the k-frame bolts and trans mount. This way the k-frame is not danging in the air by the motor mounts. Then I put the cherry picker on the front of the car and lift the car as high as I can and put jackstands under the car. Then I could roll the cherry picker out of the way and roll the engine/trans/k-frame out the front, get it out of the way and use the cherry picker to get the car back off the jack stands. I had to set my jack stands up on some concrete blocks to get enough height but it worked.

Re: dropping the motor out of the bottom, and bellhousing q [Re: dusterbd13] #1349335
12/10/12 11:48 PM
12/10/12 11:48 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA Offline
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DAYCLONA  Offline
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Posts: 18,157
Mass
Quote:

so i killed the a833 in my duster, and am swapping in a tremec








I'll assume "tremec" means 5 spd, either TKO or T5?, if so I would leave the engine and assorted hardware in place so you can mock up your install properly, record your current/factory driveline angle with an inclination meter, take a rough measurement of the tailshaft centerline to floor/crossmember distance to use as a baseline in obtaining/re-establishing your new driveline angle, as the A body is extremely tight to fit the Tremec, be ready to peel the floor up, and mod it along with anything else need to fit the tremec




Here's a 70 Duster pic from another Forum with a TKO600 install, showing an initial mock up

Mike

7498002-trans4.jpg (45 downloads)
Re: dropping the motor out of the bottom, and bellhousing q [Re: DAYCLONA] #1349336
12/11/12 12:11 AM
12/11/12 12:11 AM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,168
Vancouver, WA
MoparMarq Offline
super stock
MoparMarq  Offline
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Posts: 1,168
Vancouver, WA
Granted, Dayclona's done more of these Tremec swaps than probably anyone on here, so he should know.

As one who has R and R'd only one out the top and one out the bottom (B-body), I'd go the bottom out route again in a heartbeat. The last one was in from the bottom with a Tremec on it (Keisler). A ton easier to get the bell alignment dialed in while it's out of the car. And, if your cherry picker is decent, not too difficult to raise and lower the car a few times to figure out the trans fitting in the tunnel.
Like another poster said, having the car up high enough (in the rear) helps with getting the engine/trans (and yourself, for checking fit) underneath.
I used quite a few 68 lb. landscaping blocks in the trunk to make the lifting easier. Had the jack stands under the front hangar bulkheads for the rear springs for better car balance/lifting.

Re: dropping the motor out of the bottom, and bellhousing q [Re: DAYCLONA] #1349337
12/11/12 12:35 AM
12/11/12 12:35 AM
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 257
albemarle, NC
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dusterbd13 Offline OP
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dusterbd13  Offline OP
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 257
albemarle, NC
Quote:

Quote:

so i killed the a833 in my duster, and am swapping in a tremec








I'll assume "tremec" means 5 spd, either TKO or T5?, if so I would leave the engine and assorted hardware in place so you can mock up your install properly, record your current/factory driveline angle with an inclination meter, take a rough measurement of the tailshaft centerline to floor/crossmember distance to use as a baseline in obtaining/re-establishing your new driveline angle, as the A body is extremely tight to fit the Tremec, be ready to peel the floor up, and mod it along with anything else need to fit the tremec




Here's a 70 Duster pic from another Forum with a TKO600 install, showing an initial mock up

Mike




i picked up the newest crossmember from classicmoparfive speeds, and theoretucally have all i need for the trans swap. if i had trimmed the pinch weld on my firewall when i put the lakewod in, i probably wouldnt have to pull the motor now. but i also have to do a pan gasket, and want to do some cleaning, so im pulling it all.

im fully planning on keeping the driveline angles the same. may have to do some shimming/tweaking.

and yes, tko 500. spec stage 2+ clutch, etc.
if you want to give me some feedback, having been here and done this a number of times, i would welcome it. the whole setup is in the last page or two of my build thread.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=111545

i plan on triangulationg my subframe connectors to my t-bar crossmember at the same time as doing the trans swap and stitch welding the t-bar crossmember to the floor.

probably wint have the center over the trans piece left at all when im done.

with all this, would you still go from the bottom? just take out the 4 speed hump, and cut the tunnel as necessary as i go when lowering the body back down? i have a cutting template, but not sure how much good it will do me in this case.


Michael Crawford CSP 1970 plymouth Duster back under construction: http://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.ph...ouring-makeover 1964 el camino beater shop truck 96403-project-drivabeater-2-0-64-el-camino-this-time






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