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If you can afford to do it with good quality part ie: Isky tool room or manly next tech spings, Isky Red Zone or Crower Sever duty lifters, then the solid roller is the way to go. They make great parts that will last a long time.

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Adjust the lash frequently. If one valve starts to move, pull and inspect that roller.
As little idle as possible.
Don't second-guess the mfg. on spring loads.

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I check/adjust my lash often....
I do idle a lot cos it`s a street car that I race...
I`ve had zero problems except for TRACTION..........
Isky cam here, non agressive lobes, good tool room springs and ti retainers..........6+ years and one lifter rebuild........oh ya, stock unbushed lifter bores.............GO FOR IT!

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there are improvements you can make to flat tappet systems these days such as nitriding, face fed oiling on lifters and tool steel lifters. i know roller systems are superior but solid cams have made a lot of power over the years. i've never had any problems (having said that i now will) and for sure having a failure is a real mess but i believe if sound practices are used a solid can live a long happy life

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X1.. You can groove the (lower part)lifter bores with a tool from I believe CompCams. It allows a small amount of oil to leak by and spray on the cam lobes.

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I flattened the solid flat tappet in my hemi after only 6 mos, so
roller next time.

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One other thing. I'm not chasing ET's here. I'm happy being an 11.0 car. Although hitting 10.96 for the 1st time was pretty cool.

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Good info from all you guys that actually run, or ran, each of them. On the roller side, are the $500 rollers sufficient, or do I need to be stepping up to the $1000 ones?

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I`m running the Isky solid body lifters and I don`t remember exactly how much they were but WAY under a grand and they rebuilt em for $200.00 iirc.

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Good info from all you guys that actually run, or ran, each of them. On the roller side, are the $500 rollers sufficient, or do I need to be stepping up to the $1000 ones?

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I`m running the Isky solid body lifters and I don`t remember exactly how much they were but WAY under a grand and they rebuilt em for $200.00 iirc.

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http://www.4secondsflat.com/Composite%20lifters.htm
no worries and keep using them over & over especially if not looking for every last bit

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. Well Greg, that just threw another wrench into things! LOL! Now I have 3 different style lifters to choose from.

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http://www.4secondsflat.com/Composite%20lifters.htm
no worries and keep using them over & over especially if not looking for every last bit

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. Well Greg, that just threw another wrench into things! LOL! Now I have 3 different style lifters to choose from.

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Good info from all you guys that actually run, or ran, each of them. On the roller side, are the $500 rollers sufficient, or do I need to be stepping up to the $1000 ones?

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I have Isky Endurance Plus lifters. I paid about $400.00 seven year ago, they are now $800.00+. I wish I would have bought the Red Zone lifters, they were $700.00 back then. Now Red Zone lifters are less than $1000.00. You are buying year/miles/passes. I you think about it that way the more expensive lifters may be much cheaper in the end. I paid $400 and had them rebuilt once for $200. I could have almost bought the Red Zones and gone much longer without rebuild. The best thing about the high end lifter is the bearing are pressure fed with oil (like the crank and connecting rods), not just splash. You may be able to buy cheaper stuff and it may live a long life, but the high end part give you the insurance.