Re: Moving battery to trunk.. how to connect the cables????
[Re: tpabayflyer]
#133521
10/07/08 09:55 PM
10/07/08 09:55 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,314 Carstairs, Alberta, Canada
dave571
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,314
Carstairs, Alberta, Canada
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Quote:
I bought a cheap summit battery relocation kit and I am wondering how do I connect all the fusible link connectors???? I have 2 seperate ones coming off the original battery positive cable. Do I need to get some kind of solenoid type relay???? What has anyone else done with their mostly street driven car with the battery moved to the back??? TIA TBF
Some neat diagrams there.
The important thing to remember is keep it simple.
I'm assuming the kit came with a box, a length of wire and a 2 pin cutoff switch.
nhra rules require that the shutoff be in the positive side, and that when the switch is thrown, all electrical operation will cease(including the running of the car)
Run the big wire from the switch in the back, up to the starter relay. Just like if the battery was still up front. Route your fuse links to the same place they were(I'm assuming on the relay post).
then a short heavy wire from the switch to the plus side of the batt.
Then ground the neg side to the body with a really clean connection, and a heavy wire. You have to have a really good heavy ground on the motor to the body also(unless you plan on running a ground wire up to the motor from the trunk too).
The problem then becomes, if you flip the switch, with it set up like this, it will keep running. The alt still supplies power.
How to stop it? I have found the simplest way is to disconnect the alternator main wire from the alt. Then run a new wire direct from the alt main to the plus side of the battery,( or the same side of the cutoff switch that the battery is on). Then when the switch is thrown, the alt is isolated, WITH the battery, from the rest of the car, and it quits running.
The other plus to doing it this way, , is that you have also bypassed your ammeter at the same time, so that will never strand you again.
No solenoids etc.. needed
I'm sure you;ll get more suggestions
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Re: Moving battery to trunk.. how to connect the cables
[Re: GoodysGotaCuda]
#133523
10/07/08 10:27 PM
10/07/08 10:27 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Read carefully what Dave571 posted, and test it this way: Turn off ALL loads, radio, and any solid state (stereo) loads, lights, etc.
Run the car at a good high fast idle, and flip the disconnect off
The car should stop running. If not, you need to change the alternator wiring. There are several ways to do so, but probably the simplest is to run TWO hots to the trunk, a #6 or so from the alternator to the battery, or you can run an extra relay to kill the alternator, or you can buy a 4 post switch and put the small posts in the regulator supply lead.
This is very important. If you should wreck with the engine running for some reason, you want to be able to kill everything
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Re: Moving battery to trunk.. how to connect the cables
[Re: RobX4406]
#133525
10/07/08 10:49 PM
10/07/08 10:49 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,968 Hampton, Ga.
70dart360
Green Meister
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Green Meister
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,968
Hampton, Ga.
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If its a street car ya really dont gotta worry bout killing the alt power with the shut off. Think about it, if your in an accident who's gonna think to look for a kill switch? I done mine like Goody did. Mounted the battery in the trunk. 1 fat ground cable straight to the frame through the trunk pan. Ran the positive to the front and put it where the normal + cable woulda went and ran a short one off the same relay post to the big starter terminal. Also made a fat ground to go from the block to the frame rail in the front. Works great, never a voltage or charging issue.
70 Dart Swinger
72 D-100 440 shortbed
76 Pinto, 68k 21mpg!
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Re: Moving battery to trunk.. how to connect the cables
[Re: justinp61]
#133527
10/08/08 11:36 AM
10/08/08 11:36 AM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050 Texas
GoodysGotaCuda
5.7L Hemi, 6spd
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5.7L Hemi, 6spd
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050
Texas
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Quote:
Where (in the car) did you guys run you're main wire to the front? I've thought about running it up the drivers side along the door sill and through the firewall. This way it's not exposed under the car.
Thats what I did, ran it through the interior. I used a grommet through the firewall that was there (think its for factory clutch linkage?) to keep it isolated. No issues
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Re: Moving battery to trunk.. how to connect the cables
[Re: GoodysGotaCuda]
#133528
10/08/08 12:58 PM
10/08/08 12:58 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,968 Hampton, Ga.
70dart360
Green Meister
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Green Meister
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,968
Hampton, Ga.
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Me too, didnt want it under the cars to get beat and knicked up and cause a problem.
70 Dart Swinger
72 D-100 440 shortbed
76 Pinto, 68k 21mpg!
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Re: Moving battery to trunk.. how to connect the cables????
[Re: tpabayflyer]
#133529
10/08/08 11:10 PM
10/08/08 11:10 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Well, I didn't use a cut off switch. What I ran was some double ott welding cabling wire, with welding disconnects. Ran an 8 guage wire to stater relay. do yourself a favor, and get yourself a marine style battery box for your battery. Vent it out thru the trunk or something. Those Hydrogen fumes will rot the metal in the trunk !
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Re: Moving battery to trunk.. how to connect the cables
[Re: RobX4406]
#133530
10/08/08 11:32 PM
10/08/08 11:32 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
Another approach.
I personally like to keep a minimum of potential hot wires to the front.
Rob, the way you have that set up, the solenoid is redundant. If you just run the wire you show, IE jumper around the solenoid, and run the alternator "hot" to the battery direct, you don't even need the solenoid
So far as running the cable, I used to run mine the same route as the tail lamp harness, except I believe I ran mine up the pass side.
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Re: Moving battery to trunk.. how to connect the cables????
[Re: tpabayflyer]
#133537
10/09/08 12:09 PM
10/09/08 12:09 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,234 Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,234
Looking for a way out of Middl...
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You need to make the positive battery wire to the front at least two sizes larger than the ground. If they are the same size and you get a ground in the system they will both heat up like a heating element. If you make the short negative cable in the trunk smaller only it will heat up and reduce the chance of a fire. I had this happen during a race. The starter came loose and grounded the positive cable. It toasted the negative cable but the positive cable was stone cold. I ran 00 welding cable from front to back and a 4 gauge ground in the trunk. If they had been the same size then the positive wire would have lit up also and been a 20ft burning wire. If you run a solinoid on the main battery cable to only make the main positive live only while cranking it will eliminate that specific problem once the car is running, but it is still a hazard when cranking. Don't make the negative smaller make the positive larger.
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