Moving battery to trunk.. how to connect the cables????

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I bought a cheap summit battery relocation kit and I am wondering how do I connect all the fusible link connectors???? I have 2 seperate ones coming off the original battery positive cable. Do I need to get some kind of solenoid type relay???? What has anyone else done with their mostly street driven car with the battery moved to the back??? TIA TBF

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Some neat diagrams there.

The important thing to remember is keep it simple.

I'm assuming the kit came with a box, a length of wire and a 2 pin cutoff switch.

nhra rules require that the shutoff be in the positive side, and that when the switch is thrown, all electrical operation will cease(including the running of the car)

Run the big wire from the switch in the back, up to the starter relay. Just like if the battery was still up front. Route your fuse links to the same place they were(I'm assuming on the relay post).

then a short heavy wire from the switch to the plus side of the batt.

Then ground the neg side to the body with a really clean connection, and a heavy wire. You have to have a really good heavy ground on the motor to the body also(unless you plan on running a ground wire up to the motor from the trunk too).

The problem then becomes, if you flip the switch, with it set up like this, it will keep running. The alt still supplies power.

How to stop it? I have found the simplest way is to disconnect the alternator main wire from the alt. Then run a new wire direct from the alt main to the plus side of the battery,( or the same side of the cutoff switch that the battery is on). Then when the switch is thrown, the alt is isolated, WITH the battery, from the rest of the car, and it quits running.

The other plus to doing it this way, , is that you have also bypassed your ammeter at the same time, so that will never strand you again.

No solenoids etc.. needed

I'm sure you;ll get more suggestions

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Where (in the car) did you guys run you're main wire to the front? I've thought about running it up the drivers side along the door sill and through the firewall. This way it's not exposed under the car.

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Thats what I did, ran it through the interior. I used a grommet through the firewall that was there (think its for factory clutch linkage?) to keep it isolated. No issues

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Another approach.

I personally like to keep a minimum of potential hot wires to the front.

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One thing to think about. If you put the battery in the trunk without the master cutoff and take it to the track at all, it will not pass tech inspection. Not even for street test and tune.

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Wanna bet ?? Ron

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Lots of new cars from the factory have the battery buried deep in the trunk. Do they pass tech?

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Thanks for the info guys... I looked around for one of those borg warner #S605's and can't find a listing for it???

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It does depend on the track.

At our local track there is absolutely no way they would let you run with a batt in the trunk, and no master shutoff.

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Ditto, Ron where do you race? Capitol, 75/80 and M/D all check for an on-off switch if the battery is in the trunk

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It does depend on the track.

At our local track there is absolutely no way they would let you run with a batt in the trunk, and no master shutoff.

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Ditto, Ron where do you race? Capitol, 75/80 and M/D all check for an on-off switch if the battery is in the trunk

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I have run at Cecil and Mason Dixon. In fact this pic is from Mason Dixon and the tech guy never checked much of anything on my 63. I had the hood up and he came over and said...........is that a 426 ??? I said why yes it is and he said well then 426 is your car # today and thats about it. Ron