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Frame rail repair #1334365
11/12/12 06:06 PM
11/12/12 06:06 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,551
Massachusetts
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NortheastMopar Offline OP
pro stock
NortheastMopar  Offline OP
pro stock
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,551
Massachusetts
My both frame rails have rust through holes under the bottom right were the front kframe bolts were located. Kframe welded nuts are basically gone and all that is there is about a three inch square hole where they use to be. The rest of the frame rails are fine. Is this an easy fix or is replacing the frame rail a better option? The care is a U code so it has the welded in torque boxes which is also in great shape. I want to try and repair this without risking weakening or having the body bend on me. Anybody done this and have first hand advice as to best way to go??

Re: Frame rail repair [Re: NortheastMopar] #1334366
11/13/12 12:24 PM
11/13/12 12:24 PM

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Anonymous
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You can remove the rails without completely removing the torque boxes, I would avoid removing them, rails are not too bad to do

Re: Frame rail repair [Re: NortheastMopar] #1334367
11/13/12 01:51 PM
11/13/12 01:51 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
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Kelowna, B.C. Canada
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DPelletier Offline
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If the rest of the frame rail is indeed solid, I would simply cut out the small rusty pce and weld in an appropriate patch.

Dave


1970 Super Bee 440 Six Pack 1974 'Cuda 2008 Ram 3500 Diesel 2006 Ram 3500 Diesel 2004.5 Ram 2500 Diesel 2003 Ram 3500 Diesel 2006 Durango Limited [url] http://1970superbee.piczo.com [/url]
Re: Frame rail repair [Re: NortheastMopar] #1334368
11/13/12 07:15 PM
11/13/12 07:15 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572
Jacksonville Florida
elitecustombody Offline
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Jacksonville Florida
If rest of the rail is solid, there is no need to replace full rail, just cut out the cancer and weld a new section. You can buy a whole new rail if the area is too big and you want correct curvature,hole and nut locations and cut a patch from that.

Re: Frame rail repair [Re: elitecustombody] #1334369
11/13/12 09:38 PM
11/13/12 09:38 PM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 84
NW Pennsylvania
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areibel Offline
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NW Pennsylvania
Patching iisn't that bad, but I'd check it out closely. I've seen a lot of rotted rails, it's usually down by the TB crossmember or on the section ahead of it.. The section by the K member is a new one to me, I'd wonder if it wasn't worse when you cut out the obvious bad section?

Re: Frame rail repair [Re: areibel] #1334370
11/14/12 01:40 AM
11/14/12 01:40 AM
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,319
Chicago Burbs
sthemi Offline
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Chicago Burbs
I would agree to section in the rotted bottom side, using a repo or clean used part as a donor.
That isnt a real difficult job and should be as strong as factory.

Re: Frame rail repair [Re: sthemi] #1334371
11/14/12 02:51 AM
11/14/12 02:51 AM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,582
Rust Belt, SW PA
Silver70 Offline
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Silver70  Offline
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Posts: 18,582
Rust Belt, SW PA
I patched quite a few spots on mine and when you cut the sections out, you can take a look inside and see if it's pitted beyond where you repair.


68 Road Runner, 69 Belvedere, 71 Challenger Vert
340 barracuda, 01 Ram CTD, 95 Ram, 04 Ram, 85 Daytona turbo Z
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Re: Frame rail repair [Re: NortheastMopar] #1334372
11/14/12 11:33 AM
11/14/12 11:33 AM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 409
PEI Canada
chromedome426 Offline
mopar
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Posts: 409
PEI Canada
Quote:

My both frame rails have rust through holes under the bottom right were the front kframe bolts were located. Kframe welded nuts are basically gone and all that is there is about a three inch square hole where they use to be. The rest of the frame rails are fine. Is this an easy fix or is replacing the frame rail a better option? The care is a U code so it has the welded in torque boxes which is also in great shape. I want to try and repair this without risking weakening or having the body bend on me. Anybody done this and have first hand advice as to best way to go??





Reading your discription of having good frame rails except for some 3 inch "square" holes where the K-frame nuts use to be........Almost sounds like someone may have used a cutting torch to remove the K-frame at one point in time.

Take lots of measurements from another car to locate the welded nuts back in the correct location. Unless you plan on making it an altered wheel base.


Last edited by chromedome426; 11/14/12 12:01 PM.
Re: Frame rail repair [Re: chromedome426] #1334373
11/14/12 03:17 PM
11/14/12 03:17 PM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,582
Rust Belt, SW PA
Silver70 Offline
I Live Here
Silver70  Offline
I Live Here

Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,582
Rust Belt, SW PA
Quote:

Quote:

My both frame rails have rust through holes under the bottom right were the front kframe bolts were located. Kframe welded nuts are basically gone and all that is there is about a three inch square hole where they use to be. The rest of the frame rails are fine. Is this an easy fix or is replacing the frame rail a better option? The care is a U code so it has the welded in torque boxes which is also in great shape. I want to try and repair this without risking weakening or having the body bend on me. Anybody done this and have first hand advice as to best way to go??





Reading your discription of having good frame rails except for some 3 inch "square" holes where the K-frame nuts use to be........Almost sounds like someone may have used a cutting torch to remove the K-frame at one point in time.

Take lots of measurements from another car to locate the welded nuts back in the correct location. Unless you plan on making it an altered wheel base.






I parted a rusty 74 cuda and it rusted in the same place while the rest of the rails weren't that bad... not where I usually see them rust, but there are plates there and an area that dirt and such will stay.

Re: Frame rail repair [Re: NortheastMopar] #1334374
11/20/12 09:21 PM
11/20/12 09:21 PM
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 958
eastern, pa.
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cudabitten Offline
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eastern, pa.
I did a similar repair a few months ago. Your repair may more or less involved. Maybe these pics will help. I had the same questions when I considered the repair. Just make sure you have good penetration.


















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