if you are trying to get a richer mix when rear throttles are opening, what you would do:

-bigger rear jets
-add tension to the top air vent
-limit the top air vent opening
-more level on floaters

-a combo of the options mentioned... name it
-none of the above... make mention.

need to note I already have the bigger jets factory got available ( .98 and .143 ) on stock unmodified carbs.

Using 2005 rods which it looks the ones what lets more fuel coming in, 1/4 of turn more on top air vent spring and limited a little bit the opening of the vent door.

I'm in doubts of the metering rod link adjustment. Some kits says get it full bottmed and then adjust from there, some other specify a height from top of front vent tower ( I can't recall the distance ) which is waaaay higher than the adjustment from bottom what other instructions sheets says

easiest methods:

1) bigger jets

2) limit air door opening.

What is the motor and combo this is on?

If you've already got the .143 secondary jets are you SURE that you are lean on the secondaries, then I would limit the travel of the secondary flapper door. There is a tab on it that you bend with a screw driver. If doing that doesn't help any, then I would consider drilling out a spare set of jets to the next size up.

The secondary door tension spring on the side of the carb is usually what you end up adjusting to help cure bogging when you floor it.

edited a little the post before you posted.

must say also the floats are already at 29/32"

I'm trying to hunt a carb strip kit ( 10-203 ) before modify rear jets I have extras around... which already looks I found it.

now... if getting bigger rear jets, can I readjust the floaters to set them a little bit lower ? specially being the problem IT LOOKS to be just on rears, so why to keep the 29/32" float adjustments if not needed on regular cruising ? ( so front throttles )

I'm working on save from pinging... I have got success on all small adjustments done. At this moment just getting pinging beating hills on highways with A/C on.

but mileage is getting really bad. I know is logical if you get a richer mixture will get a bad mileage, but the change on mileage has been radical on last adjustments.

Power increase has been also an improve.

trying also to get from 7 ( NGK ) plugs heat range I'm running at this moment when I was searching for the pinging cause, to the more standard 5 heat range

See my post in this thread for info on float height and setting the primary metering rod tree.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...rue#Post7292199

Adjusting the primary metering rod tree will not affect air/fuel ratio at full throttle, only at part throttle. Tune your primaries by checking spark plug color if you don't have a wideband oxygen sensor. If you are still getting ping, you might need to back your timing down a little. Are you running vacuum advance on your distributor? If so, try adjusting the vacuum advance can with an allen key, you might just have too much vacuum advance coming in too early.

I already run the dist with vacuum unplugged, no change.

I'm already at 12º-14º. less than that will be too loopey than wished.

engine combo for those who don't know:

400 stroked to 3.75
KB215 pistons
282HDP crower cam
10.3 static CR average ( say average because block was uncorrectly decked, with slope from front to rear )

what could change the float level setup on a TQ ?

One more:

I set the floats at 29/32" being BRASS... I have read this adjustment is more proper to nitro floaters ?

I modified a TQ for my 440 by drilling out the secondary air bleed orifices located under the two cover plates for the metering rods. I also ran #1997 rods back then. This would lift the car up when I even cracked the 4 barrel open. I tried the .134 jets and went back to about .124 with more bleed air coming in to mix the fuel up sooner. The drill size was .040" and I drilled the pump squirters to this size also, with an added hole in the pump arm above the highest one for more leverage. THIS WAS A PERMANENT MOD that will ruin your TQ for any other motor, but man did it work for me. I only ran vacuum advance in the cold weather (drove it all year) and used the lightest spring in the distributor with a stock high-rpm spring. It advanced quick but didn't keep going... knock stayed away. This is on 1980's pump gas so... just throwing that out there. I love TQ's and still run them WITH GOOD FUEL now!