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I'm trying to decide what suspension to complete out the rear of my car with.

I've currently got a set of really worn out HD springs on the back of my car that have settled to a near zero arch. I've also picked up a new set of XHD springs to replace them.

At the track I'll be running an ET Street DR or Conventional ET Street. At least a 10.5" tire.

The rest of the driveline will be a centerforce DF, 1350 DS and a 3.54 Powrlok Dana 60.

Will XHD leafs with the threaded style pinion snubber work for a 600rwhp car? Or are Cal-tracs needed? I've got Koni's and 1.24" torsion bars up front, so I really need to get to about 150/lb springs to get what I know is "matched".

I would like to imagine that well below a 2.0 60' could be done easily....

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Not sure how your planning on driving the car off the line, but my first year with a 5 speed and slow mid 13 second car I had a pinion snubber (adjusted properly) and leaf springs with an extra leaf added to stiffen them up (very arched) and adjustable shocks and the car hopped like a lowrider on the launch dumping the clutch at around 3500-4000rpms...I can't imagine things getting any better with added power, and to be honest if super stock springs don't work (and im kinda thinking they won't) caltracs really are your best option. I'd get rid of those XHD's for a set of the calvert mono's and either look into caltrac bars or the smith racecraft assassin bars and good rear shocks. You will need good shocks and a good traction system to control the hit with the stick if you plan on leaving with any kind of power or aggressiveness (i.e. not riding out the clutch)

As for tires, you won't hook worth a damn with drag radials and a stick...I know from experience with this, even on slower cars, radials just don't like the dump of the clutch and tend to be very inconsistent. Use the conventional ET streets. Also, you don't seem to be short for power, but that is not enough gear to maximize the potential of the car (atleast in my opinion). I know you are building a hemi, but the powerband of the motor will dictate the gearing. Sticks like a higher numerical ratio, but you might be ok with what you have. Best is to try it and see- 60's might suck and it may not trap where you want, so a ratio change may be in order.

I have had good luck leaving at 5000rpms off a two step with a CF DF clutch, and I know of a couple of mustangs here running high tens with the same clutch at 3100-3200lbs race weight. They are a good clutch for what they are. I would try it and see how it works, although you may need an adjustable clutch.

I would take it out and see what it does. Make a pass, if things get out of line, stop before you break anything and then address the problems. Im no expert, but I ran the stick for the past three years at varying power levels (never at yours though) so I have learned a few things about what works and what doesn't.

Good luck man!

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Once you start making some passes let us know...I'll send your man card out right away

Andre

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Larry, are using that new 19 spline 833 that Passon just came out with ?

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So you two are saying that ss springs is the way to go?
Thats like opposite of everyone else.
Doesnt the ss springs have bad quality nowadays?

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All I'm saying is "I" use SS springs and have for over 30 years. The springs that are on the car now are over 15 years old and they still have a slight arch to them. What "I" do over the winter months each and every year, is jack the car up and let the suspension "hang" over the winter. Torsion bars and rear springs both. I believe that this adds life to the bars and springs.

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So you two are saying that ss springs is the way to go?
Thats like opposite of everyone else.
Doesnt the ss springs have bad quality nowadays?

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Probably not the "ultimate" drag only suspension but it does work for a street car that I like to race about a half dozen times a year.
If I were racing my car every weekend I would put the Cal-Tracs and mono-leafs back on again.I drive my car fully loaded with with camping gear food for the weekend and the full race rear suspension just wasn't cutting it for a dual purpose car.That being said my suspension works perfect on the track as well with adjustable shocks
Gus

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So you two are saying that ss springs is the way to go?
Thats like opposite of everyone else.
Doesnt the ss springs have bad quality nowadays?

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Probably not the "ultimate" drag only suspension but it does work for a street car that I like to race about a half dozen times a year.
If I were racing my car every weekend I would put the Cal-Tracs and mono-leafs back on again.I drive my car fully loaded with with camping gear food for the weekend and the full race rear suspension just wasn't cutting it for a dual purpose car.That being said my suspension works perfect on the track as well with adjustable shocks
Gus

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Thats exatly like mine, i drive to the track with all the gear in the trunk, but i dont like how high they seem to sit in the rear with ss springs.
But i dont feel like replacing caltracs springs each year either.

Any other suggestions before i buy anything i dont need or like?
Sorry to highjack...

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Try one inch SOLID lower blocks. That's what I use. But don't use the hollow cast type. They will crack in half.
The picture of my car in my sig is how my car sits normally.

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How do they feel on the street?
Also witch ones should i use at 3800lbs at the starting line?

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My car rides nice on the street. When I race I set my Rancho's on the "9" setting. On the street I set them on 2 or 3 to soften the ride a bit.
No sure what to tell you or suggest with your second question. The 002 & 003 springs are rated at 3000#-3200#. They lift the back end of my car up about 2". That's why I use the lowering blocks.
3800# HD springs actually drop the back end down. My friend uses them on his "65 "B" body.
Personal preference, I guess.

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I too have tried most of the combos listed. My current set up has "A" body SS springs(002-003). I run Rancho 9 ways set on 9. NO SNUBBER. I also run the Centerforce "11" clutch assembly. A833 18 spline. From personal experience, SOMETHING has to slip, unless you plan on breaking parts. My car is set up to slip the slicks about 10 feet at launch. Radials with a stick car don't work. I run Hoosers (29" x12"). My 60' times are around 1.54-1.60, depending on track conditions, but my car is a street car that I take to the track sometimes. It's not an all out race car. Also, my car weighs 3726 without me in it. With my 200+ pounds, it's a load to get moving. My rear gears are 4.56 Dana's. Hope this helps you get pointed in the right direction.

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Must say I love the look of this car
What rpm do you leave at and what is the Rpm at the stripe?

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Must say I love the look of this car
What rpm do you leave at and what is the Rpm at the stripe?

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Thanks. I leave anywhere from 4600 -5600. Last week at T&T I was leaving at 4600 and pulling 1.54 short times. I have my shift lite set at 6000. I trap at around 6400.

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I have 3800# springs on mine and it sits nice I think,here's a pic in street trim

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I like the way yours sits, Gus. I actually have two friends that run the 3800hp springs and they both set way lower than mine does.

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I'm trying to decide what suspension to complete out the rear of my car with.

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Some thing that I just remembered about the rear suspension and a stick car. No matter which spring you end up using, try to get the front spring segment as close to parallel to the ground as possible.