If my reaction times go from .00X's to .070's consistently, and I've checked everything else out thoroughly, is it possible my Griner trans brake solenoid could be lazy releasing? It's been on the car for at least 10 years so it has some mileage on it. My only other possibility is the B&M button is sticking.

I would be more inclined to think its not the brake , I have used Griner brake for as long without issues , give Steve ( at Griner ) a call he will tell you the same thing . I use a Biondo adjustable button , I have had the lock nut come loose and do what your saying .

Another member here might respond, he was having issues with reaction times and 60 foots varying, he changed the transbrake solenoid and the problems went away.

I have the A&A brake just put in a new solenoid. My problem was all year the car would 60' different, when it was cold 60' were better.
Once it had higher temp after 1st rd the 60' went away. Tried new tires different convertor changed the 4 link and shock settings. Never could get a handle on it finally did some full out passes normally run super street. On the first two time trials wheel speed went to 37 mph then first rd wheel speed went to 20 mph for .120 of a second then up to 38
2nd rd went to 10 mph held there for same time then shoot up to 38. Replaced solenoid and cleaned the valve body all the problems went away car pickup .10 and had to add .021 delay to the box from 1.033 to 1.054
When I took the solenoid apart the piston looked like it someone sand blasted it, this was only in the car for 2 years

Anybody else have any input? I use a B&M non adjustable button. Thanks.

i would try a new button first as gabby suggested. see if that helps.

There are quite a few possibilities, have you removed and cleaned the valve body ?? Dirt can be a big problem to the valve body, I don't like letting them go for more than a couple years without at least taking the valve body apart and cleaning, that includes the solenoid valve. Electrical issues could be connection, or solenoid. Issues like this could also be deeper in the trans, like sealing rings to the high drum or even the pump, or a leaking issue anywhere in the trans. Have you checked your pressures? If I was a bettin' man (and I'm a bracket racer so I am) I would first remove the valve body, take it apart clean it, make sure all valves are moving freely and functioning correctly, I would guess an 80% chance that's it.

If you want it consistant you gotta keep it clean.

Thanks guys, I will go through it and clean it out. I have a buddy who will lend me a solenoid also to make sure. I'm leading the points by ONE point at my local track and with one race weekend left I need to be sure I'm not going there to cut .070 lights!