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Re: Trunk battery cable - inside or under the car?
[Re: jbc426]
#1236658
05/22/12 05:40 PM
05/22/12 05:40 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
RobX4406
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
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Quote:
Quote:
Thanks for the link, RobX... they're on the way from ASE Supply, one intermittent and one continuous-duty 
I am also planning to run the heavy starter cable (hot only on start) in the left hand wiring trough. Probably will use a #4 for the alternator to minimize drop (since it's a CS-130) back to the trunk, but it'll be shorter to run it on the right since the battery and alt are both on that side.
Then I need to run one more feed back to the dash and underhood area to power everything... HHR fan, MSD, headlights, instruments, heater fan, accessories... if it weren't for the need of a master cutoff switch I could just power everything off the alternator hot stud without all the extra copper...
Bulkhead terminals are neat but they add two more points to corrode or come loose... thinking of holesaw + grommets instead 
3 cables from front to back? Are you going to fuse the second and third cables or are you going to use the solonoids to turn them off like your doing with starter cable?
Inexpensive modern fuses can easily handle loads as heavy as a cranking starter and still blow almost instantly before you smoulder a cable.
If you are burning up wires before your fuses blow, you're either using the wrong gear, or don't have your set-up wired right.
Pony up an alternative with the inexpensive solution with part numbers etc. you are suggestion. I'm all for seeing different ways of doing this.
You have basically 3 load carrying wires in my setup.
Alt - only hot when relay is switched.
Accessory to front power distribution - only hot when master is turned on.
Starter cable - only hot when relay engaged.
Mine vs some of the others with a constant hot starter cable, through the master (ugh), is I have to run a couple more feet for the accessory wire supply. I'll take that.
My bottom line is I don't want any hot wires in the front of the car/engine compartment when your master is thrown, fused or not.
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Re: Trunk battery cable - inside or under the car?
[Re: kielbasa]
#1236659
05/23/12 02:31 PM
05/23/12 02:31 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421
Balt. Md
383man
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421
Balt. Md
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Quote:
about running a jumper wire on the starter (instead of switched +12V to just the small terminal on starter), are you guys experiencing starter run-on and/or starter crank without the pinion engaging by doing this?
I ran into this situation when doing the same on a permanent magnet starter on v-twin lawn garden engine. I think the starter begins to act as a generator and keeps itself energized for a few seconds after engine starts.
No problems what so ever as I use a small jumper from the starter stud to the solenoid terminal. Ford actually did this back in the late 60's and early 70's on some of the bigblock T-birds and Lincolns with 429's and 460's. They use the started solenoid mounted on the fenderwell and also had a solenoid style starter on the car with a metal link they used from the starter stud to the solenoid. Most Fords used the starter without a solenoid mounted on it as it used one of the electric magnetic poles to engauge the starter. But I have had no run on or any problem like that. Ron
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