I finally ordered up a Strange S60 (PRSL10)diff to replace my stock 8-3/4" diff. I would like to replace the stock driveshaft at the same time with one with the 1350 U-joints and new trans slip yoke.
Anyone know the difference in driveshaft length between the 8-3/4" and Dana60? or the actual driveshaft length for a '71 B-body Charger with a Dana60 and 727 transmission?

I did the same swap last year. Seems to be a trend of just measure it when you get it in. Many told me to shorten it by as little as 1" some were clear up to 1 1/2". Well my car is a back half car w/ladder bar rear. I had to make no changes. I wished I hadn't made so many changes when I added the Dana years ago to my other Duster. Started from scratch there. Just measure & make sure it's right. Sorry thats the best info I can give you. Thanks, Ken

I made the switch once without shortening the drive shaft. If you have leaf springs, put the car on jack stands and let the springs and rear hang loose. If you can get the drive shaft in with a little room to spare, you should be good to go. If you come up with not enough room, you can probably find a way to move the rear axle back a touch with a spacer between the body and front spring hangers, or on a ladder/fourlink just screw out the rod ends IF you have plenty of engagement left.
Be sure your motor tranny combo can't move rearward under load if you are going to cut it close.

I would measure my own set up... too many things can
change your reading.... according to the trans book
I use(Munroe is the author) he says 3/4" from the yoke
being bottomed out in the trail shaft(bottom it then
pull it out 3/4") and that should be the measurement
(at curb height)... that should be enough to get
it out and not bottom out

I am in the middle of doing the exact same thing. It looks like I will have to shorten my driveshaft about an inch. I would say my driveshaft was on the short side with the 8-3/4 in the car though.

-Kenny

Installing the axle was pretty easy except for stripping the axle retainer nuts? The Strange S60 axle came with really small 7/16" head nuts for the 3/8" studs, and I used the factory torque spec of 30 ft/lbs and stripped a nut/stud. I'm not sure if those nuts that came with the axle were supposed to be used, or if they were just for shipping? The instructions that came with the axle did not mention anything about them or a torque spec. Antone run into this problem?

I ended up just buying a complete replacement set of studs and nuts from Mancinni. Installed them, torqued to 30 ft/lbs and no problem.

I made a quick driveshaft measurement and it looks like the driveshaft needs to be about 1-1/2" shorter, but it was getting dark so I will re-measure with better accuracy in the morning.

On my 68` B-body it was exactly 1-in difference

Quote:

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On my 68` B-body it was exactly 1-in difference

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Same on my 64..

My driveshaft didn't need any changes going from the 8-3/4 to the Dana...In fact, it actually fit a little better with the Dana (I think it was too long in the 8-3/4)

Best advice is to measure it. You just spent a lot of money on the rearend, might as well put a decent driveshaft at the exact correct length in it too. When I put a Dana 60 in my Charger I had Dynotech build a driveshaft for mine. They have instructions on how to measure on their order form if I remember correctly.

I did the same change on a 69 Road Runner and on a 70 Challenger. Did not have to change driveshafts on either swap. But, as said, no 2 are the same, you better measure. Don't just take advise, check for yourself! Jeff