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Re: 400 BB Mopar dyno test part 2
[Re: tboomer]
#1197357
03/17/12 03:01 PM
03/17/12 03:01 PM
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,541
USA
hudsonhornet7x
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,541
USA
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Thanks for the information about this combo  I have two questions: 1. I need a reliable set of rockers for my victor's and I need to know what brand will hold up to heavy street use ( 3-5,000 miles per summer) 2. I have a 431 with these heads being built. I would like to cnc the heads to make them flow as well as possible. Car is a 68 charger, 10.7 compression, 4 speed and 4:10 gears. What cam do I need?
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Re: 400 BB Mopar dyno test part 2
[Re: Brian Hafliger]
#1197361
03/17/12 05:56 PM
03/17/12 05:56 PM
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,541
USA
hudsonhornet7x
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,541
USA
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Quote:
Quote:
I currently have a hydraulic flat tappet, but I am open to suggestions as to what type of cam and grind would make a good combination. I want to make the correct choice, and if I need to get rid of what I have previously bought, that is okay.
My cam right now is a comp xe275hl.
I would go to a solid FT cam, maybe?
I have been thinking along those same lines, but i have no idea where to start. Is a f/t very streetable? Also, What specs do I need to know to make an informed cam choice?
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Re: 400 BB Mopar dyno test part 2
[Re: hudsonhornet7x]
#1197365
03/17/12 11:07 PM
03/17/12 11:07 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664
IN
ahy
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664
IN
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I currently have a hydraulic flat tappet, but I am open to suggestions as to what type of cam and grind would make a good combination. I want to make the correct choice, and if I need to get rid of what I have previously bought, that is okay.
My cam right now is a comp xe275hl.
I would go to a solid FT cam, maybe?
I have been thinking along those same lines, but i have no idea where to start. Is a f/t very streetable? Also, What specs do I need to know to make an informed cam choice?
A FT cam is very much streetable. Lash will need checked once in a while. With good valvetrain parts, a check every 5,000 miles should be more than enough. Even then, it will probably need little to no adjustment. The solid FT will give a little wider power band and better top end perfomrance vs a hydraulic. I think setting lash is a lot more straight forward than setting pre-load on a high performance hydraulic so in a way, mechanical is easier.
Choice depends on your use of the car, engine displacement and mods, drivetrain (transmission/convertor, rear gear), power brake plans and your personal preference. Comp and Hughes have good shelf grinds.
For reference, I'm running a fast rate solid FT in a 496. As recommended by Muscle Motors, it specs out at 243 degree @ .050" intake duration with a 108 degree lobe seperation. Rockers are Comp cast steel "pro magnum" with 3/8" pushrods. It has been a very robust and reliable setup. The engine starts to wake up around 2000 RPM and really sings from roughly 3000 RPM. Peak HP is around 5600 (guess) and it pulls well to and beyond 6k.
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Re: 400 BB Mopar dyno test part 2
[Re: ahy]
#1197366
03/17/12 11:21 PM
03/17/12 11:21 PM
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,141
junction city oregon
viperblue72
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,141
junction city oregon
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I currently have a hydraulic flat tappet, but I am open to suggestions as to what type of cam and grind would make a good combination. I want to make the correct choice, and if I need to get rid of what I have previously bought, that is okay.
My cam right now is a comp xe275hl.
I would go to a solid FT cam, maybe?
I have been thinking along those same lines, but i have no idea where to start. Is a f/t very streetable? Also, What specs do I need to know to make an informed cam choice?
A FT cam is very much streetable. Lash will need checked once in a while. With good valvetrain parts, a check every 5,000 miles should be more than enough. Even then, it will probably need little to no adjustment. The solid FT will give a little wider power band and better top end perfomrance vs a hydraulic. I think setting lash is a lot more straight forward than setting pre-load on a high performance hydraulic so in a way, mechanical is easier.
Choice depends on your use of the car, engine displacement and mods, drivetrain (transmission/convertor, rear gear), power brake plans and your personal preference. Comp and Hughes have good shelf grinds.
For reference, I'm running a fast rate solid FT in a 496. As recommended by Muscle Motors, it specs out at 243 degree @ .050" intake duration with a 108 degree lobe seperation. Rockers are Comp cast steel "pro magnum" with 3/8" pushrods. It has been a very robust and reliable setup. The engine starts to wake up around 2000 RPM and really sings from roughly 3000 RPM. Peak HP is around 5600 (guess) and it pulls well to and beyond 6k.
Yes, but pre-load is one and done. But I prefer solid ft.
Thank You Brian for sharing all of the information. There has been very little information based on experience about the victors.
I really hope the market opens up for the victors before edelbrock cans them.
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Re: 400 BB Mopar dyno test part 2
[Re: viperblue72]
#1197367
03/18/12 01:27 AM
03/18/12 01:27 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,484
SoCal
Brian Hafliger
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,484
SoCal
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It's fun sharing info!!
I'll be building a 440 with these same heads in a month, but with a 275HL cam, 1.5 rockers, 9.8:1, M1 intake, 950HP carb and 1 3/4 header. I'll try the 1 7/8 header at the same time and post those results when I have them.
Brian Hafliger
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