what temp thermostat
#1171069
02/03/12 01:58 PM
02/03/12 01:58 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 9,225 Charleston
sixpackgut
OP
Drag Week Mod Champion
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OP
Drag Week Mod Champion
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 9,225
Charleston
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i need to put a thermostat in the cuda.
what are your opinions on what temp would be best? running pump gas
Gen 3 power 6.22@110, 9.85@135 Follow @g3hemiswap on instagram
performance only racing, CRT, ultimate converter, superior design concepts, ThumperCarbs
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Re: what temp thermostat
[Re: dragram440]
#1171072
02/03/12 03:09 PM
02/03/12 03:09 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 9,225 Charleston
sixpackgut
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Drag Week Mod Champion
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Drag Week Mod Champion
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Charleston
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it runs about 160. my problem is it takes a 25 mile beating to get it to that point.
i was interested to hear if someone thinks 160 is to cold. only reason i'm asking is because the auto parts stores says a 195 stat is stock and i thought that was kindof high
i didnt have these problems when the engine was in the challenger. i guess no fenderwells and the dual pass rad make a big difference
Last edited by sixpackgut; 02/03/12 03:11 PM.
Gen 3 power 6.22@110, 9.85@135 Follow @g3hemiswap on instagram
performance only racing, CRT, ultimate converter, superior design concepts, ThumperCarbs
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Re: what temp thermostat
[Re: sixpackgut]
#1171073
02/03/12 03:40 PM
02/03/12 03:40 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,085 Niles , Ohio
therocks
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,085
Niles , Ohio
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We run 180s in all the old stuff.Thy all run at just about that temp.My 440 is super radical and OE rad.Still runs 180 all day.Rocky
Chrysler Firepower
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Re: what temp thermostat
[Re: dragram440]
#1171076
02/03/12 05:59 PM
02/03/12 05:59 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 9,225 Charleston
sixpackgut
OP
Drag Week Mod Champion
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OP
Drag Week Mod Champion
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 9,225
Charleston
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i choose a 180 high flow over the 160. we'll see how it goes and i drill holes when i run a stat
Gen 3 power 6.22@110, 9.85@135 Follow @g3hemiswap on instagram
performance only racing, CRT, ultimate converter, superior design concepts, ThumperCarbs
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Re: what temp thermostat
[Re: sixpackgut]
#1171077
02/03/12 06:08 PM
02/03/12 06:08 PM
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,058 bigfork mn
dragram440
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,058
bigfork mn
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I have tried the high flow ones and the standard ones and never saw any difference.
67' charger 499 RB
10.57 at 127
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Re: what temp thermostat
[Re: rickraw]
#1171079
02/03/12 07:35 PM
02/03/12 07:35 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
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I think for Max power, 160. For optimum engine wear, 195. Best balance for spirited street driving, 180
I had a high flow expensive performance stat, it never would warm up--I think the water pump would push it open too early.
Went to a cheap $6 stant, and it ran at 180. But my E fan was 190 on, 175 off, so I went to a 160 stat do the fan would actuall cycle on and off. It never went over 190 in town, and would hold 160 on the freeway
**Photobucket sucks**
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Re: what temp thermostat
[Re: cheapstreetdustr]
#1171088
02/05/12 03:25 AM
02/05/12 03:25 AM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 354 Livonia Michigan
440dart
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 354
Livonia Michigan
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
alot depends on ur cooling system,(rad size). i run a 180. no over heating issues. a 160 doesn't keep the water in the rad long enough to cool. that's what tech said at becool. seeya.
WOW! this rumor rears its ugly head again
so chemistry and physics is bogus?
This right from Griffins web site
One thing to be careful of though, when designing your system and using a thermostat, is to ensure your water pump has an internal bypass circuit (refer back to #6 in the flow diagrams above). Most do, but some aftermarket high-flow racing pumps do not. For these pumps, a special thermostat with a bypass hole is used, or the user drills their own bypass holes in the thermostat (typically one to three 3/16" holes) so that the system can flow when the thermostat is closed.
If you choose to run without a thermostat, do not use a restrictor. The restrictor will do nothing for you except reduce coolant flow which ultimately reduces cooling.
Years ago restrictors were popular for two reasons that do not hold true today. First, as we have discussed, older radiator designs (large cross-sectional area copper tubes) were poor at promoting the necessary coolant turbulence in the radiator, so a restrictor was used to cause the coolant to begin tumbling as it exited the engine and entered the radiator. Secondly, with engines that had the thermostat located in the outlet of the engine combined with down-flow radiators that had a fairly low pressure radiator cap on the high pressure inlet side, if the thermostat was removed the increased pressure seen by the cap from the water pump could cause the cap's rating to be exceeded and the valve to open and purge coolant. Since this opening of the rad cap is what regulates system pressure, it meant that the overall system pressure would now be lower - the cap would open sooner than if the thermostat were in place holding backpressure in the cylinder head. Since system pressure was now lower, coolant vapour point was lower, and therefore the coolant's ability to effectively carry-off heat from the engine at higher temps reduced. This in turn would result in eventual overheating. Many folks erroneously assumed that the overheating was due to the coolant flowing through the radiator too quickly with the thermostat removed, that it didn't have time to cool in the rad. As a result, restrictors were used to "slow the flow of the coolant" and the car stopped overheating. Unfortunately, these folks didn't understand the real cause and effect of the overheating that they experienced after removing the thermostat, and this led to two enduring myths that persist today.
What was really happening was that the removal of the thermostat didn't cause the coolant to flow too fast to cool (we know this is an impossibility), but rather caused a condition where either system pressure (and therefore coolant vapour point) was lowered or where the rad purged coolant which caused the car to overheat. The end result was the same - the car overheated - but the cause and effect were confused and so the myths that a) removing a thermostat can cause a car to overheat and b) coolant can be pumped too fast through a radiator to cool properly began. Neither of these are true.
Of course, today's cross-flow radiators that locate the rad cap on the low-pressure side, do not subject the rad cap to the maximum pressure created by the water pump and so are not susceptible to the pump forcing coolant past the rad cap. We also know now that all systems benefit from maximum flow - never from reducing flow.
Ultimately, reducers reduce the flow of coolant which actually hurts system cooling efficiency, not improves it.
Yes I live in Michigan, so there is still 1 light on
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