63 Dodge 330. Have owned it 15 years, and it ran 13.70 when I got it. It's heavy, no weight reductions yet. Has full interior plus a heavier than stock front bench, dynomat on everything, stereo, amp. subs, 6x9 speakers,etc.

I got it weighed and with my big butt in the seat was 3960. Too much for a B body.

Wondering how much to be gained with removing all the sound deadening, front and rear full bench seats, dual batteries. etc//

Motor is a mild 440 I built with a solid cam, 750 Holley that I choked cut and blended and morphed with some 850 parts, but it's a frankenstein. Also has Eddy heads that I did a stage 2 on.

My best is a 11.51. I think I could cheaply shave about 200 lbs off of it in just interior parts, oversized stock mopar radiator, full exhaust, All steel, etc..

Will 200 lbs. net me .2 on a car like this?

any other ideas for easy weight reduction on a 63 330. I'd like to see high 10's this year with a new carb, well matched convertor, and some weight reduction. Maybe I'm dreaming thinking 200 lbs and some CFM and a good convertor will net me .5, but I've never ran in mineshaft air.

I'll likely get 11.20's unless I go for a modern cam profile, or pull the heads and go full boogie and raise the compression. Car also has full exhaust, so a little to be picked up there.. I'd just like to see 10's for the heck of it.

rock on

might be helpful to share that I'm using a 20 year old Reed solid cam and lifters. Old tech, can't recall the specs it's been so long, but was what you'd call a tough street cam 20+ years ago.

I've heard some optimistic improvements with installing a modern well matched cam, especially over my 25 year old mechanical stuff. I think a well designed Bullet or Hughes and a matching converter might yield me .2-.3 if it all works right together. Am I dreaming? Current convertor is a stock diameter fairbanks that's stalls about 300 over factory when I last checked it. Has been consistent though and won me a few rounds and a couple of events, just soft on launch, and is now 20 years old.

I wouldn't be afraid to spray it a little for fun, as I took a new in the box NOS kit in on partial trade for a snowmobile I sold last month. If I juice it, I'd want to see 10.50's instead of a 10.99 NA. I'd rather make 10's on the motor first then let her eat the gas just for fun.

Lastly, motor has HEAVY 6 pack rods, the old school TRW anchor slugs, and is stock stroke, forged crank and stock block that's seen a lot of passes. Has studs, and an 8.75 out back with 4.56. that's on borrowed time too. Runs great so far, but I'm thinking I'm pushing the power and weight for a stock 742 case. Also, has been together as is for 14 years, but less than 3000 miles.

I'll first reply on the Jack-o-Lee's health spa reduction plan.
Here's the motto of the day, Weight is late and lite is might.
My bench seat with driver side fold down section with mounting hardware and all weighed 100 Lbs alone.
Back seat weighed 56 Lbs with mounting hardware and body mount brackets removed.
The undercoating was 60 Lbs. Sound deadening was a few pounds only, but worth every ounce taken off.
Get rid of the heat shields and Upper control arm inspection shields which are steel but leave the under fender splash shields just behind the front wheels in place. They help with aerodynamics at high speed.

Fabricate the Radiator air dam shields on the front and just behind the front bumper out of Aluminum to aid in cooling by directing much needed ram air through the radiator core.

Fabricate the front Bumper brackets out of Aluminum.

Replace all the fender mounting bolts with Aluminum ones.
I'd replace the Bumper itself with an Aluminum one if your budget allows. The original Factory lightweight type are rare and pricey for obvious reasons.
Be careful of the repops out there.
You should shed close to 270 pounds right there, maybe 300 Lbs.

Dual batteries narrowed down to one should shed you 60+ pounds if you have the large 27 type truck batteries. The new Braile types are super light weight and efficient. The factory appearing Aluminum radiators are light as well. All you need is a two row type with 1-1/4 inch tubes in the core.
Shed that stereo and amps, 30-50 Lbs right there. The only music you should be listening to is the live concert under your hood. I have a Salsa band under mine with full Bass. Tito Puente in full effect. LOL.

Post deleted by 63CandyMatic

On the cheap is to strip that bad boy down with the possibility of reversing the diet. All it takes is a few week ends with well planned out objectives and good packaging of the parts for storage.
Every Ounce counts.

my 63 is totally gutted..its a work in progress..

goal is 2800lbs soaking..and it too will be on the street and some track..

glass bumpers front and rear...

glass hood..

keeping all original glass except the rear quarter windows were replace with Plexi years ago...

alterKtion front assembly..

9" rear w/Strange aluminum center section

its back halved w/2x4 chassis ties and will have a full CM cage..

I know you dont want to cut yours up to this extent..when I got mine 15 years ago, it was cut up so I just cut it some more...

install 2 lite weight buckets, get some lite weight carpet, use aluminum where ever possible for brackets, glass hood, rear deck and bumpers...wont need a whole lot of engine tweaks at this point...

of course you could build the engine into a monster.....

1-if this is race car only, you don't intend to change that and are OK with stripping it remove EVERYTHING not needed to safely get you and it from one end of the track to the other.

2- put a real torque converter in it, you'll be surprised

3- what intake? it could probably benefit from a HP950 carburetor

just because the cam is old doesn't mean it's not good. without specs there's no way to comment on how much a change might help

weight, weight, weight get rid of it. take stuff off / out and start piling it up it sounds like there's a whole lot there you don't need. every little bit helps and is easier on the driveline.

get a decent vert in it,you would be suprised what it could pick up.
basic weight reduction - 2nd battery etc.go to a glass hood and bars.
i tried a 950ultra hp lost 3/10's plus a couple mph over my 825 mighty demon.
intake ? what's on it ?
don't you have to have a cage at 11.49 ? that's weight back in

Tex

Not a race car anymore, street pounder. Our backyard track closed, and I'm not nearly legal at the new track without some upgrades, belts, roll bar improvements, etc..

Weight reduction in the areas discussed is what I was thinking, and the first things that come to mind, and some areas cheaper/easier than others.

I guess I'm just thinking out loud if I want to make a push to get into the 10's for the fun of it, and if it's worth the effort.

I can get #250 off it fairly cheap and without a ton of effort. The next hundred(s) all get exponentially more difficult and expensive.

stock seats to a single bucket, glass bumpers and brackets, sound and rust proofing and rad will knock off a fair amount, and sound system back out, just wondering if it's worth it for a vehicle that's just a street car now. Would like to race it again in the future, just don't seem to have the time anymore.

Candymatic

Basically, my car is a full street car. It is truly a fullmetaljacket and the front windows roll up and down, though they are Lexan.
Like I said earlier, the smooth music is provided by DJ's Pete and Chuck at BEST and it is mild only because I wanted to drive anywhere between 150-200 miles a weekend.... in Zoo York City traffic.
I've removed a modest 350 pounds to date and it was easiest with all the bulky stuff first, ie; radio, seats, heater, sound deadening, etc. When it gets to the minor micro stuff that the naked eye passes by, it gets to be a question of Pocket science and or maddening in the laboratory to say the least.
Choose your weapons of mass reduction, but these B-bodies react well to removal of fat from just the right places in the chassis.

Any car light enough will scoot the mail with a relatively mild motor.

It looks like you have atleast a 6 point bar in it ? Thats good to 10.0 with the stock firewall as thats all I have is a 6 point bar. Course if you dont race it how will you know if it goes 10's. Ron