Repeat the above on the other side and presto! Shiney original bubble material with no sanding scratches (which is what ruins the tiny original details). After doing basic spot repairs (cracks etc.) I use a good sandable primer to coat everything, when sanding stop when you see white show through and you'll avoid damaging the original material which is VERY easy to sand away, it's like chalk.

This stripper worked well. I've also used the made for metal "Aircraft" stripper with similar results, non had any adverse affects on the original base material no matter how long it was sitting on the part.

Do it in an open area far away from anything painted or nice because if it gets on pretty much anything it's toast!

ALWAYS wear eye protection and full cover of clothing, it spatters and splashes easily and always goes where you least expect....And...IT BURNS YOU FAST! BTW, Latex gloves WILL MELT when in contact with paints stripper, I used PVC gloves which resist it much better.

Thanks Scott... Next time you are in Florida why don't you stop by the house and repair mine for me?

Darren

Tell you what? You strip it and send it to me, I'll repair it and send it back with a bill?

Or......You can let me strip it, repair it, paint it, and send you a BIGGER bill.




It's your call, your money or your flesh.

Loss of flesh is the reason I charge extra for paint stripping, it's my least favorite thing to do. It took me roughly 5 hours to completely strip the example above, time varies with every example but the mess is always the same.

I have to give a shout out to Scott at Harm's Auto for the brake fluid tip. It worked like a charm!

Thanks to everyone else for some great tips working with other materials as well.

What would work on stripping paint off of items such as plastic grilles and such?