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I don't know what kind of hokey setup you use but my air is dry and clean before it gets to the hose going to my gun.

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Tom, did you ever stop to think that a guy who has made a living restoring cars in Florida might know a thing or two about moisture and humidity as it relates to painting cars?

...hokey setup I suspect you are underestimating the expertise on this board.

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Greg,
I never underestimated the expertise on this board I have gained tons of knowledge from this forum and appreciate it 100%.

I just questioned Elites ability to thoroughly read a post before taking pot shots at it. I would figure that a "Professional painter" would know that air would be clean and dry before it went into the hose going to the gun. Unless he's the kind of " Professional painter" that has a filter and refrigerated dryer attached to his gun while he paints.

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73,I could not decipher much from the run-on mess with something about painting 73 roadrunner heater core.

Most compressed air refrigerated dryer are compact in size and are usually installed right after compressor.My air supply dryer/filtration setup has been working just fine for 15 years.BTW,every shop has different air compressors,dryers,filters,e.t.c. ,which vary not only by size,output,brand,e.t.c., but by age, maintenance or lack of and many other significant factors,so I do not assume that every shop's air supply is just as clean as another.

Maybe you need a backpack heater for your air supply to paint gun at Noth Pole Restorations ?


And waiting 50 minutes between coats of clear? Really? I guess that's how it's done by professional painters on North Pole

That kind of advice can ruin months of someone's hard work. Because there are hundreds of clearcoats on the market with many options of reducers and hardeners for various temperatures and speeds.Many of them will react different to fresh coat after 20,30,40,50 or more minutes.So,unless you know which specific clear,reducer and hardener OP is using, I would keep that advice to yourself .

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ok I can wash over epoxy but not bodywork? How do I get it clean in that stage(prep for primer)? I will get some of the Dupont 3901. Would I need an additional sealer over my epoxy paint(Zero Rust) or can I just go straight to color? Thanks for all the help...sorry for soooo many questions but that is how you learn, without too many mistakes.

Anyone ever heard of a shelf life for paint, even if it is kept in a temp controlled envoironment? Thanks

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i have used paint that was in the can for almost 10 yrs and it worked fine. but i dont recommend doing it.

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Alkyd's and most acrylic's would be fine, urethane's tend to turn into a gooey mess that never dries

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And waiting 50 minutes between coats of clear? Really? I guess that's how it's done by professional painters on North Pole

That kind of advice can ruin months of someone's hard work. Because there are hundreds of clearcoats on the market with many options of reducers and hardeners for various temperatures and speeds.Many of them will react different to fresh coat after 20,30,40,50 or more minutes.So,unless you know which specific clear,reducer and hardener OP is using, I would keep that advice to yourself .

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Once I shoot a clear coat I thin the remaining
amount and start shooting again... the voc need to
float up through... pretty hard when its dry

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Is that what you got from data sheet ? This may have worked with cheap lacquer ,but it's a bad idea for urethane products. Reducing clearcoat will cause dieback, making it dull,easy to scratch,chip and will lead to premature deterioration.Even if you try buffing,it will not have the gloss and luster of properly mixed and applied urethane clearcoat. Just wondering, what kind of warranty your paint jobs come with?

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Is that what you got from data sheet ? This may have worked with cheap lacquer ,but it's a bad idea for urethane products. Reducing clearcoat will cause dieback, making it dull,easy to scratch,chip and will lead to premature deterioration.Even if you try buffing,it will not have the gloss and luster of properly mixed and applied urethane clearcoat. Just wondering, what kind of warranty your paint jobs come with?

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I got that from a painting instructor and I asked a
rep for the company.. he said its fine also... plus
the thinner evaporates

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If I were you, I'd find product data sheet instead of listening to your painting instructor or rep. Usually they are easily obtainable online.

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Is that what you got from data sheet ? This may have worked with cheap lacquer ,but it's a bad idea for urethane products. Reducing clearcoat will cause dieback, making it dull,easy to scratch,chip and will lead to premature deterioration.Even if you try buffing,it will not have the gloss and luster of properly mixed and applied urethane clearcoat. Just wondering, what kind of warranty your paint jobs come with?

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I got that from a painting instructor and I asked a
rep for the company.. he said its fine also... plus
the thinner evaporates

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Not wanting to get into a pissin contest, but I have been through PPG school , Dupont school, through several in shop demo's by by such companies as Sikkins , Standox, and Glasurit by factory reps, none ever suggested deviating from the engineered reduction ratio's because they actually work. There is no need to deviate. The issues I presented in my previous post(several posts back) still hold true, over reduction produces weakened film strength (due to all that extra reducer) and a less durable finish. Some paint systems over reduction of clear will re-float the metallic in your base or wrinkle it ruining your paint job.

If what you do works for you, cool, while the results are satisfactory, your not achieving the level of finish you could be, given the materials your using, if you stick to the paint manufactures guidelines.

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Is that what you got from data sheet ? This may have worked with cheap lacquer ,but it's a bad idea for urethane products. Reducing clearcoat will cause dieback, making it dull,easy to scratch,chip and will lead to premature deterioration.Even if you try buffing,it will not have the gloss and luster of properly mixed and applied urethane clearcoat. Just wondering, what kind of warranty your paint jobs come with?

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I got that from a painting instructor and I asked a
rep for the company.. he said its fine also... plus
the thinner evaporates

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Not wanting to get into a pissin contest, but I have been through PPG school , Dupont school, through several in shop demo's by by such companies as Sikkins , Standox, and Glasurit by factory reps, none ever suggested deviating from the engineered reduction ratio's because they actually work. There is no need to deviate. The issues I presented in my previous post(several posts back) still hold true, over reduction produces weakened film strength (due to all that extra reducer) and a less durable finish. Some paint systems over reduction of clear will re-float the metallic in your base or wrinkle it ruining your paint job.

If what you do works for you, cool, while the results are satisfactory, your not achieving the level of finish you could be, given the materials your using, if you stick to the paint manufactures guidelines.

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What ever guys... its been working for me for years
now and I plan on continuing the same process...
(by the way it was a PPG rep)

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Is that what you got from data sheet ? This may have worked with cheap lacquer ,but it's a bad idea for urethane products. Reducing clearcoat will cause dieback, making it dull,easy to scratch,chip and will lead to premature deterioration.Even if you try buffing,it will not have the gloss and luster of properly mixed and applied urethane clearcoat. Just wondering, what kind of warranty your paint jobs come with?

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I got that from a painting instructor and I asked a
rep for the company.. he said its fine also... plus
the thinner evaporates

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Not wanting to get into a pissin contest, but I have been through PPG school , Dupont school, through several in shop demo's by by such companies as Sikkins , Standox, and Glasurit by factory reps, none ever suggested deviating from the engineered reduction ratio's because they actually work. There is no need to deviate. The issues I presented in my previous post(several posts back) still hold true, over reduction produces weakened film strength (due to all that extra reducer) and a less durable finish. Some paint systems over reduction of clear will re-float the metallic in your base or wrinkle it ruining your paint job.

If what you do works for you, cool, while the results are satisfactory, your not achieving the level of finish you could be, given the materials your using, if you stick to the paint manufactures guidelines.

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What ever guys... its been working for me for years
now and I plan on continuing the same process...
(by the way it was a PPG rep)

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Some of those ppg reps can come in pick up a gun and show you how to use their materials properly. Some are just pushing product. not picking, just saying

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Is that what you got from data sheet ? This may have worked with cheap lacquer ,but it's a bad idea for urethane products. Reducing clearcoat will cause dieback, making it dull,easy to scratch,chip and will lead to premature deterioration.Even if you try buffing,it will not have the gloss and luster of properly mixed and applied urethane clearcoat. Just wondering, what kind of warranty your paint jobs come with?

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I got that from a painting instructor and I asked a
rep for the company.. he said its fine also... plus
the thinner evaporates

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Not wanting to get into a pissin contest, but I have been through PPG school , Dupont school, through several in shop demo's by by such companies as Sikkins , Standox, and Glasurit by factory reps, none ever suggested deviating from the engineered reduction ratio's because they actually work. There is no need to deviate. The issues I presented in my previous post(several posts back) still hold true, over reduction produces weakened film strength (due to all that extra reducer) and a less durable finish. Some paint systems over reduction of clear will re-float the metallic in your base or wrinkle it ruining your paint job.

If what you do works for you, cool, while the results are satisfactory, your not achieving the level of finish you could be, given the materials your using, if you stick to the paint manufactures guidelines.

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Elite said " Not wanting to get into a pissin contest," Hahahah now that's funny sh&t there. I would have never thought that after reading "ALL" of your posts. You sound like my neighbor who worked behind a paint supply counter for 25+ years. He thinks he knows everything there is to know about painting too. He painted 2 cars in his life both looked like crap and the clear coat was falling off of 1 less than 2 years later.

OP, You have some good information here unfortunately it's hard to figure out because Elite is littering this thread as he "TRIES" to prove he knows what he's talking about. Go to the link I sent you (autobody 101) You will find people there that have actually painted a car and know what their talking about (Like some of the people that posted in this thread) But you won't find people that just think they do like elite (Not wanting to get into a pissin contest, Hahhaha That's still funny sh&t) Hahhahahah

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This comes from someone that was just questioning my ability to thoroughly read a post before taking pot shots at it.

I quote your useless post just so you can't go back and edit.

Now go back and pay close attention to my previous post. I quoted wicked's post agreeing with him. So keep talking out of your a$$,you're just making that hole deeper.I'm not even going to post pics of my work because you're just a troll . Go install couple more heater cores in your air supply,you might get even better results and don't forget to wait couple hours between coats,you might just come up with the ultimate paint job ever

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Elite said " Not wanting to get into a pissin contest," Hahahah now that's funny sh&t there. I would have never thought that after reading "ALL" of your posts. You sound like my neighbor who worked behind a paint supply counter for 25+ years. He thinks he knows everything there is to know about painting too. He painted 2 cars in his life both looked like crap and the clear coat was falling off of 1 less than 2 years later.

OP, You have some good information here unfortunately it's hard to figure out because Elite is littering this thread as he "TRIES" to prove he knows what he's talking about. Go to the link I sent you (autobody 101) You will find people there that have actually painted a car and know what their talking about (Like some of the people that posted in this thread) But you won't find people that just think they do like elite (Not wanting to get into a pissin contest, Hahhaha That's still funny sh&t) Hahhahahah

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Elite said " Not wanting to get into a pissin contest," Hahahah now that's funny sh&t there. I would have never thought that after reading "ALL" of your posts. You sound like my neighbor who worked behind a paint supply counter for 25+ years. He thinks he knows everything there is to know about painting too. He painted 2 cars in his life both looked like crap and the clear coat was falling off of 1 less than 2 years later.

OP, You have some good information here unfortunately it's hard to figure out because Elite is littering this thread as he "TRIES" to prove he knows what he's talking about. Go to the link I sent you (autobody 101) You will find people there that have actually painted a car and know what their talking about (Like some of the people that posted in this thread) But you won't find people that just think they do like elite (Not wanting to get into a pissin contest, Hahhaha That's still funny sh&t) Hahhahahah

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This comes from someone that was just questioning my ability to thoroughly read a post before taking pot shots at it.

I quote your useless post just so you can't go back and edit.

Now go back and pay close attention to my previous post. I quoted wicked's post agreeing with him. So keep talking out of your a$$,you're just making that hole deeper.I'm not even going to post pics of my work because you're just a troll . Go install couple more heater cores in your air supply,you might get even better results and don't forget to wait couple hours between coats,you might just come up with the ultimate paint job ever

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Elite said " Not wanting to get into a pissin contest," Hahahah now that's funny sh&t there. I would have never thought that after reading "ALL" of your posts. You sound like my neighbor who worked behind a paint supply counter for 25+ years. He thinks he knows everything there is to know about painting too. He painted 2 cars in his life both looked like crap and the clear coat was falling off of 1 less than 2 years later.

OP, You have some good information here unfortunately it's hard to figure out because Elite is littering this thread as he "TRIES" to prove he knows what he's talking about. Go to the link I sent you (autobody 101) You will find people there that have actually painted a car and know what their talking about (Like some of the people that posted in this thread) But you won't find people that just think they do like elite (Not wanting to get into a pissin contest, Hahhaha That's still funny sh&t) Hahhahahah

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This comes from someone that was just questioning my ability to thoroughly read a post before taking pot shots at it.

I quote your useless post just so you can't go back and edit.

Now go back and pay close attention to my previous post. I quoted wicked's post agreeing with him. So keep talking out of your a$$,you're just making that hole deeper.I'm not even going to post pics of my work because you're just a troll . Go install couple more heater cores in your air supply,you might get even better results and don't forget to wait couple hours between coats,you might just come up with the ultimate paint job ever

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Hahahahhahha Yup no pissing contest here. Hahahahhahha That's still some funny sh&t Hahahahhahha

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It's good to know that you have sense of humor laughing at how you owned yourself.