Painting questions...
#1119840
11/23/11 04:35 PM
11/23/11 04:35 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 957 Heart of Ohio
4boxers4
OP
super stock
|
OP
super stock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 957
Heart of Ohio
|
What steps do you typically take when cleaning up before applying a color base. Can you water wash? only over primered parts or bodywork too? I used some thinner to clean over my epoxy primer but when I shot some Dupont Hot Hues over it...there were spots that wrinkled. I didn't wait alot of time for the thinner to flash off in some areas, before painting, I am assuming. The paint was a couple years old, stored inside so I don't think that was it. There used be to some product named prep clean or something, people used to use. I need to repair those locations and my plan was to sand down to the primer layer, then scuff the color surrounding it with 800 grit, then wipe and reshoot. The Hot Hues thinner is special so maybe I should wipe with that before re-applying? Any tips or pointers would be greatly appreciated. Step by step layman's terms works best as I am a motivated novice. Thanks!
Persistance is omnipotent
Durability Engineer, Chair and Couch division...
|
|
|
Re: Painting questions...
[Re: 4boxers4]
#1119843
11/23/11 09:55 PM
11/23/11 09:55 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572 Jacksonville Florida
elitecustombody
pro stock
|
pro stock
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572
Jacksonville Florida
|
Do not ever use thinner,acetone or reducer to wipe before paint,unless it's bare metal or some tractor. Use prep-solvent that is designed for precisely wiping parts down prior topcoat. Do not use rattlecan or cheap lacquer based primer.Only 2-part primer should be used on anything that you want to last. If you don't want to use prep-solvent,buy 3M grey or red scothbrite pads for final prep ,you can wash with water and dry with clean lint-free cloth. I prefer using microfiber towels before paint,because there is zero lint. I've tried many towels and nothing beats microfiber.
|
|
|
Re: Painting questions...
[Re: RodStRace]
#1119844
11/23/11 10:03 PM
11/23/11 10:03 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 587 IL . usa
cjs69mope
mopar
|
mopar
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 587
IL . usa
|
I would not wash with water, because water is absorbed by primer. i used to do that until i got water bubbles under paint. I would blow off with air , auto body tack rag (there is a difference.) then wax and grease wipe and dry with clean white paper towels . tape and wax and grease again and dry . mix paint into gun , lightly pass auto body tack rag just before spray and if need have it handy after base is dry to lightly catch nubs before laying down clear .
1969 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Superbee
|
|
|
Re: Painting questions...
[Re: 73rrak]
#1119847
11/24/11 10:41 AM
11/24/11 10:41 AM
|
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572 Jacksonville Florida
elitecustombody
pro stock
|
pro stock
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572
Jacksonville Florida
|
Quote:
2 things I learned on the last car I did.... If your compressor sits outside and it's cold in your neck of the woods you need to warm your air up a little bit. I insulated all of the pipes with pipe insulation (from home depot) from the compressor to the wall going into the garage. Then I used the old heater core from the 73 Roadrunner I was painting with air lines from the regulator to the heater core then out of the heater core to the hose going to my paint gun.
The next thing I learned if you put a couple extra coats of clear on so you have extra clear to wet sand off to get the paint perfectly smooth. The flash times are progressive. If you waited 20 minutes after your first coat of clear wait 30 minutes after your second coat, 40 minutes after your third coat, 50 minutes after your fourth coat and so on.
These 2 things made a major difference for me on my last project
I wonder who gave you all the ideas.
As far as I know, air supply needs to be refrigerated to eliminate condensation/moisture ,not heated. Because it gets hot or warm coming out of the compressor.
Waiting longer than 30 minutes between coats on clear is walking on thin ice,especially if waiting 50 or more minutes. Maybe if you use some weird clear and add retarder.In most cases fresh coat of clear after 30+ minutes can ruin all the work,because previous coat ,which has already started to solidify, can wrinkle from solvents in the following coat.
OP, read tech sheet on the products you use,follow the instructions and you will be just fine.
|
|
|
Re: Painting questions...
[Re: 73rrak]
#1119848
11/24/11 10:49 AM
11/24/11 10:49 AM
|
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
|
Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
|
Quote:
2 things I learned on the last car I did.... If your compressor sits outside and it's cold in your neck of the woods you need to warm your air up a little bit. I insulated all of the pipes with pipe insulation (from home depot) from the compressor to the wall going into the garage. Then I used the old heater core from the 73 Roadrunner I was painting with air lines from the regulator to the heater core then out of the heater core to the hose going to my paint gun.
The next thing I learned if you put a couple extra coats of clear on so you have extra clear to wet sand off to get the paint perfectly smooth. The flash times are progressive. If you waited 20 minutes after your first coat of clear wait 30 minutes after your second coat, 40 minutes after your third coat, 50 minutes after your fourth coat and so on.
These 2 things made a major difference for me on my last project
I usually lay down 3 coats of clear and reduce each coat with 10% more thinner on each coat... this will lay out super smooth and leaves very little sanding... I never wash it with water(you cant get it all to dry or blow out)... I always use a sealer before shooting the base
|
|
|
Re: Painting questions...
[Re: cjs69mope]
#1119849
11/24/11 10:52 AM
11/24/11 10:52 AM
|
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572 Jacksonville Florida
elitecustombody
pro stock
|
pro stock
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572
Jacksonville Florida
|
Quote:
I would not wash with water, because water is absorbed by primer. i used to do that until i got water bubbles under paint. I would blow off with air , auto body tack rag (there is a difference.) then wax and grease wipe and dry with clean white paper towels . tape and wax and grease again and dry . mix paint into gun , lightly pass auto body tack rag just before spray and if need have it handy after base is dry to lightly catch nubs before laying down clear .
Depends on what primer is being used and if you shoot paint the instant after wiping.Most likely you didn't wait 5-10 minutes before spraying or your air supply needs better filters. I've been washing most of my work before paint for over 20 years,not once I had (water bubbles) you're talking about.
|
|
|
Re: Painting questions...
[Re: elitecustombody]
#1119851
11/24/11 12:55 PM
11/24/11 12:55 PM
|
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 340 Alaska
73rrak
enthusiast
|
enthusiast
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 340
Alaska
|
Quote:
Quote:
2 things I learned on the last car I did.... If your compressor sits outside and it's cold in your neck of the woods you need to warm your air up a little bit. I insulated all of the pipes with pipe insulation (from home depot) from the compressor to the wall going into the garage. Then I used the old heater core from the 73 Roadrunner I was painting with air lines from the regulator to the heater core then out of the heater core to the hose going to my paint gun.
The next thing I learned if you put a couple extra coats of clear on so you have extra clear to wet sand off to get the paint perfectly smooth. The flash times are progressive. If you waited 20 minutes after your first coat of clear wait 30 minutes after your second coat, 40 minutes after your third coat, 50 minutes after your fourth coat and so on.
These 2 things made a major difference for me on my last project
I wonder who gave you all the ideas.
As far as I know, air supply needs to be refrigerated to eliminate condensation/moisture ,not heated. Because it gets hot or warm coming out of the compressor.
Waiting longer than 30 minutes between coats on clear is walking on thin ice,especially if waiting 50 or more minutes. Maybe if you use some weird clear and add retarder.In most cases fresh coat of clear after 30+ minutes can ruin all the work,because previous coat ,which has already started to solidify, can wrinkle from solvents in the following coat.
OP, read tech sheet on the products you use,follow the instructions and you will be just fine.
I never said I heated the air I said I warmed the air as in I brought it to the temp of the room I was spraying in. If you read my post I said the warmer is in the line between the regulator and the hose going to my paint gun. I don't know what kind of hokey setup you use but my air is dry and clean before it gets to the hose going to my gun. I was just trying to tell the OP 2 things that made a huge difference in my finished product.
Hey OP ....Go to http://www.autobody101.com/forums/ it's a forum that has professional painters answering questions like the one you asked.
|
|
|
Re: Painting questions...
[Re: RodStRace]
#1119852
11/24/11 01:12 PM
11/24/11 01:12 PM
|
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 340 Alaska
73rrak
enthusiast
|
enthusiast
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 340
Alaska
|
Quote:
novice here too.
Wash and rinse well. Try not to touch it with anything from here on out, except as listed. No laying tape on it, putting your hands on it, etc.
Make sure it's completely dry! Mask it. Put it in the booth. cover the tires. Wipe it down with wax and grease remover. Tack cloth. Spray.
This guy knows what he's talking about
|
|
|
Re: Painting questions...
[Re: cjs69mope]
#1119853
11/24/11 01:14 PM
11/24/11 01:14 PM
|
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 340 Alaska
73rrak
enthusiast
|
enthusiast
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 340
Alaska
|
Quote:
I would not wash with water, because water is absorbed by primer. i used to do that until i got water bubbles under paint. I would blow off with air , auto body tack rag (there is a difference.) then wax and grease wipe and dry with clean white paper towels . tape and wax and grease again and dry . mix paint into gun , lightly pass auto body tack rag just before spray and if need have it handy after base is dry to lightly catch nubs before laying down clear .
and so does this guy
|
|
|
Re: Painting questions...
[Re: challengermike]
#1119854
11/24/11 01:15 PM
11/24/11 01:15 PM
|
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 340 Alaska
73rrak
enthusiast
|
enthusiast
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 340
Alaska
|
Quote:
wax and grease remover,also called prep sol.Every brand paint calls it some thing different.You can also use the tack rag inbetween coats of base,but not inbetween coats of clear.
This guy too
|
|
|
Re: Painting questions...
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#1119855
11/24/11 01:16 PM
11/24/11 01:16 PM
|
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 340 Alaska
73rrak
enthusiast
|
enthusiast
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 340
Alaska
|
Quote:
Quote:
2 things I learned on the last car I did.... If your compressor sits outside and it's cold in your neck of the woods you need to warm your air up a little bit. I insulated all of the pipes with pipe insulation (from home depot) from the compressor to the wall going into the garage. Then I used the old heater core from the 73 Roadrunner I was painting with air lines from the regulator to the heater core then out of the heater core to the hose going to my paint gun.
The next thing I learned if you put a couple extra coats of clear on so you have extra clear to wet sand off to get the paint perfectly smooth. The flash times are progressive. If you waited 20 minutes after your first coat of clear wait 30 minutes after your second coat, 40 minutes after your third coat, 50 minutes after your fourth coat and so on.
These 2 things made a major difference for me on my last project
I usually lay down 3 coats of clear and reduce each coat with 10% more thinner on each coat... this will lay out super smooth and leaves very little sanding... I never wash it with water(you cant get it all to dry or blow out)... I always use a sealer before shooting the base
and this guy
|
|
|
Re: Painting questions...
[Re: AeroMonte]
#1119857
11/24/11 01:25 PM
11/24/11 01:25 PM
|
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 340 Alaska
73rrak
enthusiast
|
enthusiast
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 340
Alaska
|
Quote:
You can not use water over bare bondo or metal as it will start to rust. You can use water over epoxy primer, paint etc. After you have final sanded the panel and are ready to paint, wash with soap and water then let dry. Mask the panel as needed and then wipe it down with Final Clean(DoPont #3901) and a soft towel. We use blue paper shop towels from the auto parts store. Then use a good tack rag and final wipe the panel. You really should spray a sealer before you base to help keep the solvents from attacking the substrate. You are now ready to spray your base. Don't hose the base on, use medium coats and you should do just fine. Be sure to let each coat flash completely or you will have problems. Be sure your spray area is clean and blow yourself off real good before spraying.
I would let this guy paint my Mom's car
|
|
|
Re: Painting questions...
[Re: 73rrak]
#1119858
11/24/11 01:32 PM
11/24/11 01:32 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,842 Kirkland, Washington
Pacnorthcuda
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,842
Kirkland, Washington
|
Quote:
Quote:
I don't know what kind of hokey setup you use but my air is dry and clean before it gets to the hose going to my gun.
Tom, did you ever stop to think that a guy who has made a living restoring cars in Florida might know a thing or two about moisture and humidity as it relates to painting cars?
...hokey setup I suspect you are underestimating the expertise on this board.
|
|
|
Re: Painting questions...
[Re: Pacnorthcuda]
#1119859
11/25/11 02:56 AM
11/25/11 02:56 AM
|
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 340 Alaska
73rrak
enthusiast
|
enthusiast
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 340
Alaska
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I don't know what kind of hokey setup you use but my air is dry and clean before it gets to the hose going to my gun.
Tom, did you ever stop to think that a guy who has made a living restoring cars in Florida might know a thing or two about moisture and humidity as it relates to painting cars?
...hokey setup I suspect you are underestimating the expertise on this board.
Greg, I never underestimated the expertise on this board I have gained tons of knowledge from this forum and appreciate it 100%.
I just questioned Elites ability to thoroughly read a post before taking pot shots at it. I would figure that a "Professional painter" would know that air would be clean and dry before it went into the hose going to the gun. Unless he's the kind of " Professional painter" that has a filter and refrigerated dryer attached to his gun while he paints.
|
|
|
|
|