So, I am getting ready to install a scarebird disk brake swap w/ 11.75 cordoba rotors and chevy calipers.

I need to do something with the master cylinder, so I was thinking the lightweight aluminum master cylinder but from what I've read it's a manual swap only.

Currently I have power 11 inch drums. So, should I got for the manual brake swap? I really would like to drop a few pounds off, but my experiences with manual disk brakes have not been good.

would an adjustable prop valve and a smaller master cylinder help?

I have changed the 2 b bodies I've owned over to manual from power. First was a 70 charger, loved the manual discs. ended up being a racecar.

The currently owned 67 coroent eis still my daily driver, 4000#, manual steering and manual brakes, loves them both. I like the road feel in the brake pedal. I have the 12" rotors and caliper adapters on 76 a body spindles. Will never go back to power brakes.

On the other hand I seem to be the only one, all my friends hate my brakes, but they all drive chevys......

I have manual front discs on my 68 and they work great. I just used the mopar parts swap from the tech section.

I love manual discs...too cushy with power...contact dr. diff for a master cylinder....

Yes, no need for power disks on a car, really. And I have an extra brand new aluminum MC with billet adapter that I'm not going to use.

Years ago I swapped the power brakes out and put in the Mopar aluminum master. The car is an original disk brake b-body. The braking left a lot to be desired - took a lot of effort to stop. However that was long before the internet and this website and from what I've since read I'm thinking the problem is probably the rod is using the wrong pedal hole. The car hasn't been driven in 24 years but before it goes on th road again I plan to take a look at that.

Manual.

Changed to manual brakes AND steering in my 470" Challenger. Less clutter in the engine well! Works great. Parallel parking is a bear but I always hated parallel parking and always park at the end of the lot anyway.

Go manual. Less clutter. Less problems. No wories about cam duration or vacuum signal.

manual steering and brakes and collecting parts for a 4 speed

keep in mind the bore size of the MC, bigger isnt always better..

http://www.mpbrakes.com/technical-support/troubleshooting-disc-drum-06.cfm

My son has manual disc on his Dart and it stops fine even from his 117 mph runs it stops with ease. My 63 has stock power drums and I left them on the car. Even with the MP .557 cam my power brakes work fine and it also stops fine from 116 mph runs. I drive it all over on the street and they work fine for normal street driving. Ron

So, if I read this right, I need a new master cylinder if I take the power booster off. Do I need a different push rod for the pedal to the master cylinder? And can I use the aluminum master that Ehrenberg sells?

I got manual disc brakes. You can get a manual disc brake cylinder for a 70 barracuda at car quest for like 35 bucks, then you need a manual brake rod, and the firewall plate for manual brakes. I have no stopping issues since I dont run in the traffic jams with my muscle car and dont drive like im on a road corse either

I have all stock parts manual disk brakes on our 73 440 727 dart.
I like the manual disks. When you mash the pedal you actually have brake feel.
Stops fine but the pedal is always full, ie not much freeplay.

I'm really considering removing the power booster from my '73 Satellite. I need to remove it for painting anyway, I just never liked power brakes.
So, I just need to find the rod and an adapter to the master cylinder. I don't want to butcher it, though. That's why I was wondering about the aluminum cylinder. I'm putting the car on a diet....

If you go with the aluminum MC, I think you need an adaptor plate to go from 4 bolt mounting to 2 bolt.

So, I ordered all my parts from Zippy...

I got the master cylinder, adapter and adjustable prop valve from him... All I need to order is the manual brake pushrod from Master Power brakes...

MP has a convertion kit for $160, with the iron master cylinder. I wonder if they sell it without the master? Unless Zippy PM's me. I'll call MP 2morrow!

Took some pics the other day.

This one is of the m/c. You can see the adapter bracket in polish behind it. IIRC, the bracket is made by AndyF, sold by a number of dealers, one of whom is GregHP here on Moparts. (www.magnumhp.com).
Behind the adapter bracket is the reinforcing plate that covers the otherwise gap that would exist when you remove the power brakes booster assembly. I don't know that it actually does much "reinforcing", since the force on the firewall (from the brake pedal) is outward toward the engine rather than inward toward the cabin.
Might be some inward force also from the torque applied by the pedal/master cylinder assembly.


The reinforcing plate on my car is used and, though it doesn't show in the pic, was pitted and needed a lot of TLC to get it into reasonable shape. You might be able to fab one that fits the bill.

The adapter bracket has the studs that go through the firewall and pedal assembly brackets under the dash to provide the strength to the setup.

The m/c is a MP unit 1-1/32" bore. Don't know how I like the pedal feel, as the car is not on the road yet. Statically, the pedal is nice and firm, (to my liking) but the stopping power is still unknown.

-Marq