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Re: crank shaft and b1
[Re: AndyF]
#1116310
11/22/11 03:58 AM
11/22/11 03:58 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,000 Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,000
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
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Quote:
Ouch! That is an interesting thought with the long stroke. Even if it clears fine on the engine stand, it might not clear at 7000 rpm when the crank starts to move around.
For the OP, I wouldn't use a bargain basement crank in a big power motor. Better spend the money for the good stuff if you want it to make power and live.
I cracked an Ohio 4.15 large rod bearing crank at 100 passes. No detonation, or other problems. I now have a $2300 Crower in it. I could have saved myself a bunch of $$ had I done it right the first time. If it were me, I would stay at 4 5/8 stroke or less, Biggest heads I could afford.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: crank shaft and b1
[Re: cesar perez]
#1116312
11/22/11 09:05 AM
11/22/11 09:05 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,000 Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,000
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
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It is the quality of steel and how it is made that makes a huge difference. The long stroke and small diameter of the rod journals on a 4.75 stroke crank also take a lot of overlap out of the crank between the rods and mains.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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