Moparts

crank shaft and b1

Posted By: cesar perez

crank shaft and b1 - 11/18/11 10:48 PM

i am planning on going up to 604 ci from 511 ci. what do u guys think of an ohio crankshaft 4.750 stroke product and also would like to know what head would be better 572-13 or b1 originals what flow number differences between both heads- also was told that with the b1 heads i would be able to go with a larger 4530 bore it has better sealing fit than the 572-13 - give me your input thanks
Posted By: Chris'sBarracuda

Re: crank shaft and b1 - 11/18/11 11:22 PM

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...e=1#Post6917188


Chris..
Posted By: 440Jim

Re: crank shaft and b1 - 11/19/11 02:36 AM

B1 heads, not Indy...
Posted By: B1Ken

Re: crank shaft and b1 - 11/22/11 01:55 AM

I built a 612 (4.530 x 4.750) in an Indy block with B-1 original heads 3 years ago. It lasted to about the 1000' mark on the first run and the cam broke! In conversation with another Mopar racer, he thought there might be a clearance problem with the rods and cam with a 4.75" stroke. Uhh ... maybe he has something there. Oh well it only cost me about $12,000 to find out. All I'm sayin' is you better check this out.
K.B.
Posted By: AndyF

Re: crank shaft and b1 - 11/22/11 07:31 AM

Ouch! That is an interesting thought with the long stroke. Even if it clears fine on the engine stand, it might not clear at 7000 rpm when the crank starts to move around.

For the OP, I wouldn't use a bargain basement crank in a big power motor. Better spend the money for the good stuff if you want it to make power and live.
Posted By: gregsdart

Re: crank shaft and b1 - 11/22/11 07:58 AM

Quote:

Ouch! That is an interesting thought with the long stroke. Even if it clears fine on the engine stand, it might not clear at 7000 rpm when the crank starts to move around.

For the OP, I wouldn't use a bargain basement crank in a big power motor. Better spend the money for the good stuff if you want it to make power and live.




I cracked an Ohio 4.15 large rod bearing crank at 100 passes. No detonation, or other problems. I now have a $2300 Crower in it. I could have saved myself a bunch of $$ had I done it right the first time. If it were me, I would stay at 4 5/8 stroke or less, Biggest heads I could afford.
Posted By: cesar perez

Re: crank shaft and b1 - 11/22/11 09:35 AM

i see alot of racers using a 4750 cranks without any issues
Posted By: gregsdart

Re: crank shaft and b1 - 11/22/11 01:05 PM

It is the quality of steel and how it is made that makes a huge difference. The long stroke and small diameter of the rod journals on a 4.75 stroke crank also take a lot of overlap out of the crank between the rods and mains.
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