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we always cut rods to get a final rod-rod clearance dimension,,

no,, absolutely no,,, no,, no,, you will not have to rebalance it,, cutting .020 off a big end will take about 1-2 grams off,, which will change the bobweight 2-4 grams..

do you rebalance your motor when you run 5-20 oil as compared to 20-50 oil,,, thats prob bout the same difference

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no, but i dont pay 350 dollars to change my oil weight either. i asked because i didnt know.

off topic: does a quart of 20-50 weigh the same as 5-20?

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I suppose you remove your pistons after every 10 runs and scrape off the deposits to make sure its still "in balance" ?
Nothing wrong with being anal... just don't go overboard.

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we always cut rods to get a final rod-rod clearance dimension,,

no,, absolutely no,,, no,, no,, you will not have to rebalance it,, cutting .020 off a big end will take about 1-2 grams off,, which will change the bobweight 2-4 grams..

do you rebalance your motor when you run 5-20 oil as compared to 20-50 oil,,, thats prob bout the same difference

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no, but i dont pay 350 dollars to change my oil weight either. i asked because i didnt know.

off topic: does a quart of 20-50 weigh the same as 5-20?

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I suppose you remove your pistons after every 10 runs and scrape off the deposits to make sure its still "in balance" ?
Nothing wrong with being anal... just don't go overboard.

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we always cut rods to get a final rod-rod clearance dimension,,

no,, absolutely no,,, no,, no,, you will not have to rebalance it,, cutting .020 off a big end will take about 1-2 grams off,, which will change the bobweight 2-4 grams..

do you rebalance your motor when you run 5-20 oil as compared to 20-50 oil,,, thats prob bout the same difference

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no, but i dont pay 350 dollars to change my oil weight either. i asked because i didnt know.

off topic: does a quart of 20-50 weigh the same as 5-20?

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I suppose you remove your pistons after every 10 runs and scrape off the deposits to make sure its still "in balance" ?
Nothing wrong with being anal... just don't go overboard.

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im not trying to be anal or difficult i just want what i paid for is all, i dont know so thats why i asked.

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No big deal. I'm assuming you don't know who Jeff is. End result is... Send it all back and hopefully they will set you up properly. Or, clean the rods up and that will work too. The result will be the same, do what makes you sleep well.

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have them cut the rods,,, but you dont have to rebalance

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So your saying Jeff if I buy the crank from them for
chevy rods I have to have my rods cut... BS... they
should have cut the crank for chevy rods(dia and width)...
I JUST went though this... the guy that cut my crank
for chevy rods did the dia but forgot the width... I
took it back to him and he cut the width(no charge)
and said he was sorry for the screw up

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I bought a 505 kit from them over a year ago and had the same problem and when I called and told them the rods were chrysler width and the crank was chevy width they didn't think I knew what I was talking about and said they would have to do some checking and call me back. They called back and said I was right and to send the rods back and they would cut the width to chevy size. The main reason I bought the kit from them was to avoid this kind of problem. Im thinkin they've only sold two of these kits in over a year or they would have corrected this problem.

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I bought a 505 kit from them over a year ago and had the same problem and when I called and told them the rods were chrysler width and the crank was chevy width they didn't think I knew what I was talking about and said they would have to do some checking and call me back. They called back and said I was right and to send the rods back and they would cut the width to chevy size. The main reason I bought the kit from them was to avoid this kind of problem. Im thinkin they've only sold two of these kits in over a year or they would have corrected this problem.

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It really bothers me that they argue, or belittle you and make you feel like the moron, when THEIR "kit" should be checked for this kind og thing. This problem tells me that they have never mocked the "kit" up at all, and just threw it together on paper. I can make a 550ci small block on paper too, but its making it fit in real life thats the issue.

I guess its better to deal with accual engine shops that a speed shop. Dave is getting beaten up here lately, and makes my scared to deal with them ever again.

Kasey

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nothing wrong with grinding the rod width, you can acctually set your clearance where you want for better oil controll, to me that is better than being too wide (clearance) and have no way to correct it, I don't see this problem as a big deal, if you need a replacement rod then just have the new one ground to the same width as the old one.

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I bought a 505 kit from them over a year ago and had the same problem and when I called and told them the rods were chrysler width and the crank was chevy width they didn't think I knew what I was talking about and said they would have to do some checking and call me back. They called back and said I was right and to send the rods back and they would cut the width to chevy size. The main reason I bought the kit from them was to avoid this kind of problem. Im thinkin they've only sold two of these kits in over a year or they would have corrected this problem.

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It really bothers me that they argue, or belittle you and make you feel like the moron, when THEIR "kit" should be checked for this kind og thing. This problem tells me that they have never mocked the "kit" up at all, and just threw it together on paper. I can make a 550ci small block on paper too, but its making it fit in real life thats the issue.

I guess its better to deal with accual engine shops that a speed shop. Dave is getting beaten up here lately, and makes my scared to deal with them ever again.

Kasey

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nothing wrong with grinding the rod width, you can acctually set your clearance where you want for better oil controll, to me that is better than being too wide (clearance) and have no way to correct it, I don't see this problem as a big deal, if you need a replacement rod then just have the new one ground to the same width as the old one.

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I bought a 505 kit from them over a year ago and had the same problem and when I called and told them the rods were chrysler width and the crank was chevy width they didn't think I knew what I was talking about and said they would have to do some checking and call me back. They called back and said I was right and to send the rods back and they would cut the width to chevy size. The main reason I bought the kit from them was to avoid this kind of problem. Im thinkin they've only sold two of these kits in over a year or they would have corrected this problem.

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It really bothers me that they argue, or belittle you and make you feel like the moron, when THEIR "kit" should be checked for this kind og thing. This problem tells me that they have never mocked the "kit" up at all, and just threw it together on paper. I can make a 550ci small block on paper too, but its making it fit in real life thats the issue.

I guess its better to deal with accual engine shops that a speed shop. Dave is getting beaten up here lately, and makes my scared to deal with them ever again.

Kasey

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nothing wrong with grinding the rod width, you can acctually set your clearance where you want for better oil controll, to me that is better than being too wide (clearance) and have no way to correct it, I don't see this problem as a big deal, if you need a replacement rod then just have the new one ground to the same width as the old one.

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Dartman, I agree, but my point was more related to how Hughes kits are NOT out of the box ready. I had a similar issue with mu A engine girdle, had to clearance the crap out of it. I do understand that everything should be checked for clearance and inspected before you run it, but how are you going to do that when you cant even get the rods on the crank. You can mic the rods and crank, but how about side clearance, or deck clearance, you cant.

Kasey

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Kasey you can mic the journal width and measure the width of the pair of rod's for that journal and get a real close approximation of how much you need to remove, I am not saying the OP need's to just let it go cause it should of been correct in the first place,,I am saying that it is easily fixable, and mostly a inconvienience,sometimes that is worse than the repair. I also don't put a lot of faith in the idea of ready to run OOTB, I had some front suspension part's that claimed bolt on, no mod's required,, yeah right,, had to notch the K frame to install and have room to function.

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You have Mopar width rods .

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we always cut rods to get a final rod-rod clearance dimension,,

no,, absolutely no,,, no,, no,, you will not have to rebalance it,, cutting .020 off a big end will take about 1-2 grams off,, which will change the bobweight 2-4 grams..

do you rebalance your motor when you run 5-20 oil as compared to 20-50 oil,,, thats prob bout the same difference

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