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DO NOT WASTE UR TIME ON POWERMASTER OR ANY WITHOUT THE NOSE SNOUT...just go with the mopar mini that comes outta of the dakota...trust me the shim style blow

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100%

Mopar mini on all my motor.even have one on my 600" 16-1 compression no problems

98% of all starter failures I have seen here come from poor alignment and bad mesh with ring gear

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you mean clockable?

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That's it!

I had the Mopar mini starter installed but it will not clear the steering box on my '41 Dodge truck (original straight axle frame).

So I think the clockable will be my solution. The mini almost gets me by.

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98% of all starter failures I have seen here come from poor alignment and bad mesh with ring gear

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I use a clockable powermaster w/ nose snout on my 408 SB. It hasnt missed a beat its always worked well for me.

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You might want to send that starter back to them,,,let them look at it and maybe they can figure out how to produce another one JUST LIKE it!!! They re-worked mine 3 times and NEVER did get it to hold up. The idea is good, but the little screws that hold the too many sections together don't hold up very long. Mine had the alignment nose/snout, but when the starter motor would start flexing on the mount, things went bad. In my A-body/RB car with TTI headers, I knew I was going to be in for lots of work with a starter failure, so I paid $340. for the TTI recomended, and Powermaster advertised 'ultimate starter'. I also paid $1000.+ for a new convertor, as the starter ate my old one the 2nd time I got the starter back from them. The $45.00 Mopar mini starter fit the space better and does an excellent job of cranking my 493" 13.5:1 CR engine. Sorry this post is so long, but the time to read it is very short compared to changing starters 3-4 times with a combination like mine.

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98% of all starter failures I have seen here come from poor alignment and bad mesh with ring gear

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That & poor distributor phasing

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I use the Powermaster in my altered, it was the only way to get a starter to fit as the frame rail is right there.

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Might check into this one,
http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/mopar_starter.html

I haven't ever heard anything bad about them. I plan on geting one when I put my junk back together.

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I just had to go this route with TTI's in an early - a body.




The starter rotates 360 degrees and seems fine - i did have to grind the block since it was in contact with a portion of it.

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Might check into this one,
http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/mopar_starter.html

I haven't ever heard anything bad about them. I plan on geting one when I put my junk back together.

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I just had to go this route with TTI's in an early - a body.




The starter rotates 360 degrees and seems fine - i did have to grind the block since it was in contact with a portion of it.

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Might check into this one,
http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/mopar_starter.html

I haven't ever heard anything bad about them. I plan on geting one when I put my junk back together.

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I just had to go this route with TTI's in an early - a body.




The starter rotates 360 degrees and seems fine - i did have to grind the block since it was in contact with a portion of it.

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So the terminal portion can be rotated 360*? This looks like the solution...

Do you have a pic of the MC starter from the front view? I am wondering how wide the round part is compared to the stock mini??

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as a matter of fact i do,