Body shop guy's, I have a quick question.
#1017427
06/20/11 10:20 PM
06/20/11 10:20 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,894
N of Detroit
DaveDudek
OP
top fuel
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OP
top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,894
N of Detroit
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After you have a car sand blasted, it's back at your shop, you have blown all the sand out of her, what's the next step? I talked to one guy and he said "blow the body off 100% and hit it with DP40", do your body work and everything right over that. Another guy said after you blow the car off, acid etch the entire shell, hit it with a water hose, when it dries it will be orangeish, and hit it with DP90. What's the correct way, I don't want any problems..... Thanks  
Dave Dudek 1st Factory Stock legal car in the 10`s!!! [/b] FAST & Factory Stock Rules: www.fastraces.org FAST 69 Hemi RR 9.98@139
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Re: Body shop guy's, I have a quick question.
[Re: DaveDudek]
#1017430
06/20/11 11:50 PM
06/20/11 11:50 PM
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,315
MOPAR HEADQUARTERS IN ALDEN NY
hemigod426
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,315
MOPAR HEADQUARTERS IN ALDEN NY
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vacumme and blow it out like carzy, then back on the flat bed for a trip around the block and repeat step 1, step 2 one that most shops miss, d/a the whole car down with 220 grit,hand sand anywhere you cant d/a. then prep solvent the shell down 2-5 times untill rags look kinda clean.tack car with new tack rags, after that the best epoxy 2 part primer you can buy, unload the whole gallon one it, after that do your body work one panel at a time then prime with 2 part uro prime dont get crazy with that stuff more is never better and causes lots of shrinkage later. apply 2-3 fine coat wet like paint block and repeat till your arms fall off... 
MOPAR OR NO CAR
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Re: Body shop guy's, I have a quick question.
[Re: elitecustombody]
#1017432
06/21/11 06:57 AM
06/21/11 06:57 AM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
Every shop has their own ways they do things,I'd shoot epoxy primer before any filler,also I would not D/A anything,blasted surface is the ultimate suface for epoxy primer IMO.
 .....sandblasted etched surface is the best for adhesion, I would vacumm the car out first, blowing it out last, to avoid a compounded dust film which the car has anyway from blasting, then wipe the panels down with a quality high flash enamel reducer, I prefer Dupont's etch primer Vari-prime, as it actualy etches into the surface because of it's acid base, epoxy sealer, is just a membrane, it actually has no "bite" on the metal surface,....the choice is yours, I would just recommend, whatever paint line you choose, you stick with, when you start mixing different manufacturers, you may have adhesion proplems down the road, or paint reactions....use QUALITY products, start to finish,...cheap crap doesn't get hidden, it only comes back to bit you later...
regarding "major" bodywork, I like to do all bondo work before etch priming, then a good coat of ureahthane primer builder like 2K, then block the car, 2 part putty for small surface defects/lows,...then finish the car off with approx. 3-4 coats of 2K block sanded between each coat, the last finished off with 600 grit....no wet block sanding, dry only...
final paint, I prefer Dupont Chroma Premier BC/CC, but rgardless of your choice, I spray 3 coats of base color, followed by 3-4 coats of a premium clear (Chroma Premier) then color sand with 1000 grit, followed by 1500, then 2000, then 2500, up to 3000 depending on the color,...black is best taken to 3000 grit, no compounding, just polish with 3M Finess-it II/III line of polish.....but thru-out the paint process don't allow bare hands to touch the car, or let it remain outside for periods of time not needed...
Mike
Last edited by DAYCLONA; 06/21/11 06:59 AM.
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Re: Body shop guy's, I have a quick question.
[Re: DAYCLONA]
#1017433
06/21/11 09:50 AM
06/21/11 09:50 AM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 450
DFW
68RRFlyer
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 450
DFW
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Dave, The hardest battle is to get all the media out of the car after blasting. It does help putting it on a rotisserie and rolling it around a few times while using the air hose and vacuum (with some interesting attachments, I might add  ) and focus on getting all that material out of there. The cowl and roof braces particularly come to mind. Once done, DA if you want to, but not necessary unless the blaster missed some areas. Follow that up with a good wax/de-grease session and then tack it off for a lint free shell. DPLF over that in whatever shade you chose. Bodywork over that. I've done several cars that way and no problems noted years later. Hope that helps and like what was said, ask a question to five people and be prepared for ten answers. Chose which one suits you the best with your ability/availability of materials/time, etc. Cheers 
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Re: Body shop guy's, I have a quick question.
[Re: elitecustombody]
#1017435
06/21/11 03:17 PM
06/21/11 03:17 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,668
South Dakota
hotairballoonpilot
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,668
South Dakota
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DO NOT ACID ETCH OR ACID PRIME SANDBLASTED METAL. EVER! Caps on to make you know. Acid pools in the pits and will cause you headach later. Didn't read all the responses just wanted this known. DP it after it is all cleaned/blown off and tack it too before you dp it. then let sit for a day and scuff the dp with 36 grit and do body work on the dp. some say you don't have to scuff the dp but I feel the more mechanical adheasion you get the better,
Corey
Contact Me about AMD Prices
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Re: Body shop guy's, I have a quick question.
[Re: hotairballoonpilot]
#1017436
06/21/11 04:16 PM
06/21/11 04:16 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,894
N of Detroit
DaveDudek
OP
top fuel
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OP
top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,894
N of Detroit
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Thanks everybody..  With-in the next few weeks i'll be tearing into her.
Dave Dudek 1st Factory Stock legal car in the 10`s!!! [/b] FAST & Factory Stock Rules: www.fastraces.org FAST 69 Hemi RR 9.98@139
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Re: Body shop guy's, I have a quick question.
[Re: sixpackbee]
#1017439
06/21/11 08:05 PM
06/21/11 08:05 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
Quote:
DO NOT ACID ETCH OR ACID PRIME SANDBLASTED METAL. EVER!
Not to start a peeing contest but I have done this for over 30 years now. The few times I have things stripped this way anymore, not the prefered method IMO, I get the parts back to the shop. DA lightly to remove all impregnated particles. Wash down several times with DX330 or any such product. Then prime with 615/616S, DuPonts Vari Prime self etching primer. When it flashes off I cover with a quality urethane primer. Then onward we go until paint. Never once have had a problem. Just an FYI.
....been doing it this way for 30+ years as well,...it's all in the prep, some guys are all thumbs when it comes to prep, or just plain cut corners,...which comes back to bite them later...
Never had an issue doing a car/bike/truck this way, IMHO acid etched priming is the only way to go for rust prevention/conversion.....epoxy coating is just a "condom" on the car, waiting to slip off 
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Re: Body shop guy's, I have a quick question.
[Re: DAYCLONA]
#1017440
06/21/11 08:43 PM
06/21/11 08:43 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,582
Rust Belt, SW PA
Silver70
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,582
Rust Belt, SW PA
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After blasting I either epoxy or use etch primer as soon as possible.
68 Road Runner, 69 Belvedere, 71 Challenger Vert
340 barracuda, 01 Ram CTD, 95 Ram, 04 Ram, 85 Daytona turbo Z
66 GTO, 06 Magnum RT AWD. 07 Ram CTD, 07 Ram
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Re: Body shop guy's, I have a quick question.
[Re: Silver70]
#1017441
06/22/11 06:44 PM
06/22/11 06:44 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 815
PNW
Danan
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 815
PNW
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Sandblasted metal begins rusting instantly. I used to use PPG metal cleaner and conditioner, but didn't like the fact that you have to wash the metal with water (the water needs to "sheet" over the metal per PPG). The last couple years I've been using Picklex 20 immediately after blasting. It's $140/gallon through www.autobodystore.com. Not cheap, but what is these days? It prevents microscopic flash rust just like the PPG products, but you just let it dry instead of washing off with water. I have had zero issues doing it this way, even though I live in Northwest WA state (high humidity...out-of-towners call it 'rain'). There are many ways to skin this cat.
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Re: Body shop guy's, I have a quick question.
[Re: DaveDudek]
#1017442
06/22/11 08:07 PM
06/22/11 08:07 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,670
Lima, Peru
domingo
EL Master
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EL Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,670
Lima, Peru
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Quote:
After you have a car sand blasted, it's back at your shop, you have blown all the sand out of her, what's the next step?
I talked to one guy and he said "blow the body off 100% and hit it with DP40", do your body work and everything right over that.
Another guy said after you blow the car off, acid etch the entire shell, hit it with a water hose, when it dries it will be orangeish, and hit it with DP90.
What's the correct way, I don't want any problems..... Thanks
Acid, then water with a hose, let it flash rust and then prime it??? NO FREAKING WAY!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just blast it, blow it off clean, make sure there is no rust left, and shoot it with PPG DP40. If there are any smears from handling just clean em up witg grease remover or somthinf similar b4 DP40-
If any spots werent blasted good enough, leave em bare so you can spot em later on...and spot blast them again later and apply D40 over them. Or you can retocuh those spots with hand held tools and abrasives and prime them.
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