I did adjust it out about half way. I realize it was wrong at the time.

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From what I see the kick-down plate(slotted) is touching the wrong end of the carb stud. It should be on the back-end that way when you give it gas it starts to put pressure on the tranny throttle valve right away. so even with the correct stud the tranny kick-down won't work right. need to adjust rod out or replace it with a longer one. I probably have it but seeing you need it now...

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New pic with some changes. Didn't have a clip so had to use some safety wire. Here you see the clearance. If I adjust the kickdown anymore the kickdown snaps down forward.

i didnt cut mine, why i mentioned to ignore the writing. i mounted the stud, facing outwards, where you have the kickdown bolted. a "hairpin" clip on the inner groove, a washer, the linkage, washer and another hairpin clip, is what i did to make mine work. double springs, and i verified it all worked, and operated smoothly, and freely, before driving. small block with an edelbrock performer and linkage kit, basically the same deal as yours. i also used the factory throttle cable, with no issues on mine.

ok I think I see the issue now.are you running a performer rpm intake? if so you will need to buy a throttle bracket that is taller.
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/thbrwiki3ve.html

Well I had to cut it. No way to use it with out doing that. Just too long. When I upgraded to the 360, the throttle cable was too short and didnt work with the carb linkage.

I also only have the single piece kickdown. I'm running a RPM Airgap intake which is tall.

So I took the car out for a test drive and the throttle is good now. No more wide-open throttle. However, with the kickdown adjusted like it is, feels like its running in 3rd. It starts out fine, then at around 25-30mph, it sounds like a wimpy little shift and bogs down after. No more power. That kind of loss in power you see when a catalytic converter is plugged.

You need to get the proper throttle cable bracket.

Look here:

http://arengineering.com/throttlebracket/Tbracket/tbracketframe.html

Once you get that fixed we can help you get things sorted out.

Step 1: get the correct throttle cable bracket
Step 2: install said bracket
Step 3: get back to us so we can help you get it working properly.

So I found the Lokar throttle cable at o'reilly's. I replace the kickdown with the 3 piece and now I see some of the problems that i had. The original 1 piece for the 2 bbl DOES NOT WORK with the 4 bbl at all. It is too short no matter what. So you will see in the pic what my issue is. The throttle cable is catching on the kickdown and need to know if there is another way of doing this before I cut the cable to fit. Can I add some length and leave a longer loop of cable to avoid the kickdown? I was hoping I didnt have to buy the kickdown cable, seeing how they didnt have it in stock.

Before changing the kickdown position.

3 piece is the way to go. much easier to work with than a rube goldburg cable setup in my opinion. you can alter the length (or where the stud contacts)of the slot with a set screw and nut, slide it to where the full kickdown is (push back with hand)and the throttle is WOT, and tighten.

Yeah I like it a lot and would hate take it back out for a cable. I knew when I hooked it up it was right immediately. Its adjusted right, shifts good. The only issue left is clearance and then can verify whether it stopped the Christine effect.

I've always wondered why the kickdown linkage had that huge long slot on it with springs holding it forward when everyone says to hook it up so it's full back at WOT, and then lock it down.

to prevent jamming the throttle at WOT makes sense!

Well the kickdown was replaced as stated a few posts ago for the 3 piece. A taller bracket isnt my issue, nor is it a kickdown adjustment now, its the placement of the throttle cable. When both overlap, they are going to jam up.

If it still gets stuck now, then Im thinking that its either the carb is getting jammed at the butterflies, something else internal with the carb, or somehow bad motor mounts. There is nothing else left at this point.

make sure none of the carb linkage on the other side is not getting held up on the intake or carb base gasket.

should check the butterflys and base gasket as well.

the mount would have to be broken and engine lifting a good amount to stick the throttle at WOT...it can happen though

are you sure that throttle cable is not frayed and sticking in the cable housing itself?

some more pics would be nice

I just replaced the cable with a lokar yesterday. I did check the old one and there was NO fraying at all.

More pics...

and more...I know what the cable looks like in the pic..coming out of the firewall it looks like its kinked, it is not i guarantee.