i am with quick tree..
lower the wheelie bars...not a whole lot...but ill explain my hypothosis..
the shock extremes to me... dont leave alot of future adjustment..
its just too stiff.

i would tend to allow the suspension a tad more movement..and control a portion of it with the shocks..
right now its too stiff...puts a load somewhere else into the equation...which is the tire..
it takes the hit..then the wheelie bar touches and it unloads the tire...
lowering the wheelie bars..(and possibly backing off the wheelie bars spring just to tune absorb the hit..
this will allow it to continue weight transfer and still remove the bounce..
you hit the wheelie bars and it interupts the rise...this is abrubt reaction unloads the tire...
if you catch the rise with the wheelie bar...
alow it to control the rise without interupting it abrubtly.....so it doesnt stop the movement just cushion..
it will keep the rear loaded...
the wheelie bar now is forcing a different reaction..causing the bounce.
if the wheelie bar is set lower it will contact the ground earlier in the chain of events..and you can keep it in contact..with the ground..
let the car rise a little after the wheelie bars touch...
it wont interupt the upward movement so abruptly..
full stiffness of the shocks it putting the hit all on the tire..
the car comes up..the wheelie bars hit..it abrubtly changes the upward motion...this unloads a little at the tire..the tire rebounds..then the wheelie bars touch down again..
Imho..keep the wheelie bars planted...with out a rebound action...
the car will leave better...
shock adjustments may still need to be moved..
tightening up the front will take alittle bit out of the total rise...it looks pretty tight in the vid..though....?
but the wheelie bar bounce is a symptom..
not claiming to be an expert..just trying to explain my reasoning..
cheapst.


365" Iron J heads,,3480lbs best 1.39 60ft on SS springs.10.54,124 mph ...6.67 1/8th et.average 60fts 1.46 w/ small cam &.063 no2 pill tagged & insured
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