I'll throw in my $.02.

I took delivery of one of the first sets of stealths. Took them all apart and checked them THOROUGHLY. Not bad. I checked each valve with Dykem to confirm seat sealing. A few spins with the hand lapper showed all but one were spot on. After a few trips to the head surfacing machine I dialed in my chambers to 74'cc. I then started blending in the already ample (stock-ish form) bowls to the valve inserts as they (the inserts) protruded a bit into the bowls. I polished up the ports and knocked down the casting flash in them as well as an intake gasket match. I ended up removing .060" on the surfaces and .075" on the intake faces. Some of the valve cover rail was milled off in doing so but still have plenty of meat to seal the valve cover. After hand lapping the questionable valve, putting in my Isky 935-DR springs from my "906"'s and a brand new set of Comp Cams 10-degree retainers and locks, they were good to go.
I figured I spent about 6hrs with the "Tootsie Rolls" which included relieving the intake pushrod areas for use with 3/8" rods and 1.6:1 rockers, another 2+ hrs for setup and about $200.00 in maching and parts costs and I am still a few bucks ahead.

I don't think you can beat the cost factor. I too am not looking for a balz out killer RB just a decent runner in a stock-bodied "B" body with enough punch to turn some heads. I was running 12.70's before the head swap so soon I will send it down the track to see what improvements I made.

I went from 9.6:1 CR with the old iron heads to 10.5: 1 with the "Stealth's". I have a .048" quench (attainable using Cometic's and a stock deck ht.) and "Sixpack" 2355F TRW flattops. I have the .509/.292 cam "straight up", 3000 stall converter and 4.10"s in the Dana.

Hopefully I will drop the mill into the car this weekend.

Lots have been said about the Stealths but I still feel I got a good deal. No head swap is without a fair amount of work and exterraneous cash outlay. That is a given.

Good luck!

Bud